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#1
10-26-2002, 11:16 AM
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Anyone have a favourite method for removing the crusty old 32 year old seized up bolts from the rear control arm suspension bushings (installed in car). Brake drum on the axle prevents a good swing with the trusty Ford tool.
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#2
10-26-2002, 11:16 AM
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Anyone have a favourite method for removing the crusty old 32 year old seized up bolts from the rear control arm suspension bushings (installed in car). Brake drum on the axle prevents a good swing with the trusty Ford tool.
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#3
10-26-2002, 12:37 PM
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PB Blaster .. Thats the S**t .. It got mine apart.
Andy |
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#4
10-26-2002, 06:20 PM
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I had to use a smoke wrench (torch) on mine to get them off.
Sprayed them for days, but they wouldn't budge. It was a joy taking heating the drivers side up 3" from the fuel line in a one car garage that is under the house. What? Me Worry? |
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#5
11-04-2002, 06:03 PM
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Man My64
Not sure if that was ballsy or stupid... [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img] I used a sawsall through the middle and threw the whole axle in the trash, along with the rest of the rear subfame. My car is a little different though.
__________________
So let me get this straight: Your Honda has 1.6 liters and my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2? |
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#6
11-05-2002, 05:19 AM
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__________________
 frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. 
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#7
11-05-2002, 08:42 AM
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A 3" high speed cutoff wheel make quick work of the axle side bolt. A Sawzall is currently 'at work' on the frame side bolt. Another gentleman was kind enough to recommend 'PB blaster', which I plan to use on the other bolts at first (power tools as a last resort). Thanks for the suggestions thus far!
Oh...the PB blaster suggestion was you, Andy....I am going to pick some up today. The KISS principle applies, I'll try the simple things first (but breaking out the power tools sure helped me feel better at first....) |
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#8
11-05-2002, 09:12 AM
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Bob,
I'm leaning more towards stupid. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] But I didn't have much choice at the time. The car was up on jacks, and all other bolts were out. I didn't have a big enough compressor to run a cutter wheel and I couldnt get a sawzall in that area to cut the bolt. It worked out OK though. My bro heated the bolt while I continuously sprayed the fuel line with cold water. Not that I would do it again though... [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img] <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bob8748: Man My64 Not sure if that was ballsy or stupid... [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img] I used a sawsall through the middle and threw the whole axle in the trash, along with the rest of the rear subfame. My car is a little different though.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> |
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#9
11-05-2002, 10:28 AM
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Use a long breaker bar to get the nut off, then a impact on an air compressor on the bolt will get it spinning and even though its not threaded in, it usually workes its way out, the threads of the bolt must grab on to the control arm edge and push itself out. I had the toughest bolts to get out in my 70 GTO and this worked quite easy. You really shouldnt have to cut anything, Mine were very hard to get out and I actually reused all the bolts. If you dont have a decent breaker bar, get your ratchet on there and take the handle out of a big floor jack or something and slip it on your ratchet for good leverage. Good luck!
 GR-RRR! [This message was edited by 428GTO70 on November 05, 2002 at 12:37 PM.]
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 1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi. Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun! |
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#10
11-05-2002, 10:36 AM
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If it's really rusty, then grind or cut the head or nut off the bolt.
Another, often overlooked tool is the nut splitter (no, not your spouse, although I've seen a few that probaly could remove rusted parts with their bare hands!). THey are usually steel yokes, with a screw and a hardened wedge that you place over the nut, and tighten until it splits the nut. I found out about the merits of a nut splitter trying to maintain a boat trailer used in salt water. Every 2 years or so, I need to change my springs, and the bolts are welded together with rust. A cheapo, auto parts store nut splitter works wonders, especially with an air ratchet. USE EYE protection! If the hex part of the nuts/bolts are OK, try MAPP gas to heat them up (only if you are changing your bushings, as they will melt). MAPP is much hotter than propane, and I've found that it often works where PB blaster and propane won't.  "I open up three deuces, I'm Never Coming Back!" |
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