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#21
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And the Nylon braid still has a stainless steel braid for strength, it's just in the middle of the hose where it's not stabbing you
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#22
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I have no problem buying all vaporguard hose I just wondered if there was really a 300 dollar difference between it and regular fuel injection hose
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#23
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Yeah, a huge difference.
Rubber fuel injection hose from the auto store is just that.....a piece of rubber. It has a higher pressure rating than regular rubber hose but that's where the only difference lies. It's by no means safe to use to plumb an entire car, it's very prone to puncture, collapsing, cutting, melting, deterioration etc.... It's not safe to use to plumb a car except for very short small pieces like the factory did at the frame to fuel pump, or sending unit to hard line, or from uni-body to frame connections where things move around. The AN hose, vapor guard, what ever you want to call it that I linked to, has braided steel reinforcement, a TFE lining for vapor guard that also resists alcohol fuels and any other kind of liquid you throw at it, has a high burst pressure, heat resistant and doesn't deteriorate or collapse over time and is overall pretty darn tough, doesn't cut with a pocket knife like rubber hose, a hack saw is needed (what I use) or a very sharp large bolt type cutter will work, and it's NHRA legal so you can plumb the entire car with it. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#24
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Just got off the phone with Holley Tech and they said the vapor guard hose could be used to plumb the whole car as long as the hose was supported by frame clamps every 6 inches or so.
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#25
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To be fair there will still be people who will say you shouldn't plumb the entire car with any kind of flexible line. And then others who say they have done it and its no problem. I don't really have a strong opinion either way, but its one of those tribal camp issues. To hardline or not to hardline.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#26
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Quote:
The firebird I'm finishing up, we did 1/2" stainless hard line pre-bent from Inline Tube complete with spring wire for a factory appearance. I then used short sections of the AN line I linked to, to connect the pump to the hard lines, and the engine to the hard lines. It's a nice way to go, and easy to do on an F-body because the hard lines are in 2 pieces from the factory so nothing in the way to install them. When it comes to A-bodies however that's a different story. Hard lines are one piece, and just about need the body off the frame and/or completely gut the bottom side of the car to install them. In these instances I plumb the car with the AN line. Either way the cost is the same. I've never had issue with any of it, and have tech'd cars at the track with both versions. As long as you route the AN line sensibly and it's properly secured, it'll give you many years of trouble free service. |
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