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Old 09-10-2019, 12:12 AM
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64speed 64speed is offline
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Default One piece at a time

I am taking my car to the body shop one piece at a time and he is doing it and returning the piece to me primed and ready to paint. So far he has my drivers fender which had a small fist size dent in it but no rust. I plan on taking him my other fender hood and trunk lid. I am on the fence about taking the doors off the car. Would you treat them as separate pieces that need to be taken off and done like the fenders etc or would you leave them on the car. It would speed things up for me cause this seems to be working out for me fiscally faster but I’m afraid of getting into the whol rebuild the door hinges etc on a set of doors that already shut perfectly. Thought?

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Old 09-10-2019, 08:36 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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Def an interesting way to restore a car. As far as the doors go, I would take them off and treat them the same way as the fenders, hood, etc. If they work great, then no need to worry about the hinges. Although rebuilding a hinge is a pretty easy job.

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Old 09-15-2019, 09:00 PM
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daduck daduck is offline
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I was watching a restoration video where the guy drilled 2 small holes (1/16 or so) at opposite edges of the hinge face thru hinge all the way thru the door frame. He said when reinstalling it was a lot more accurate to line up the hinge to those small holes.
Sounded like a good idea especially if the jams get painted..... because if you mark where the bolt/washer is before taking the door off they will get painted over and no more mark. Does it work? I don't know.

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Old 09-15-2019, 09:28 PM
tjs72lemans tjs72lemans is offline
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I did two 1/8" dowel pins in my 55 Chev hinges when I took it apart. Putting back together with those for reference still seemed to need adjusting. But, it gets you in the ballpark.

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Old 09-15-2019, 10:07 PM
tom s tom s is online now
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Same thing I do on hood.Tom

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Old 09-16-2019, 11:18 AM
rohrt rohrt is offline
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A few thoughts on this.

The weight of the glass and mechanicals in the doors can cause a little sag. This needs to be taken into consideration when lining up the body lines.

If you can line up the body lines as best you can with the full weight of the doors. You should have an even strait line along the bottom. Make sure you are using new door bushings. If your able then just pull the pins on the door. Paint the jambs with the hinges still on and then assemble by just putting the pins back in.

I assume your not concerned about perfect gaps. You can't do that with doing body work one piece at a time.

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Old 09-16-2019, 04:14 PM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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Im in the process of painting my car right now (79 ta). I used a diff. technique on my door hinge alignment. The hinge will leave a 'ghost' mark when removed on both the body and the door itself. In my case the door was aligned really good before removal. I masked off exactly the outline of the mark. I then painted that with dark grey primer (it will be covered when finished). After that was dry, I masked over the newly applied primer exactly. Then I painted the door jamb and body area. Remove the masking and put the hinge back against the outline. Put the door back on the car making sure that it covers the paint on the body exactly. Worked perfect. I didn't even need to fine tune, it was in perfect alignment first time out, took all of ten minutes. I did the same technique when I restored my 77 and also did the drill a hole trick. I found that taping off is so much easier.

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