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#1
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Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms worth the money?
Just wondering if anyone has used these types of adjustable Control Arms (any brand) and whether they are worth spending over $200 on over the standard type?
Thanks in advance. Paul
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--> 1966 Pontiac Le Mans Convertible, Martinique Bronze, black top, Parchment interior, alloy Rallye 2's, M/T Sportsman ST's 235f/255r with redlines, 464 (455 .040 over), Performer RPM 87cc round port heads, Butler roller cam, Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, Ram Air 2.5" manifolds, 67 GTO Ram Air pan, 2.5" Magnaflow, Muncie M22, 3.55 Eaton Posi. <-- |
#2
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They are if you have, or plan to, alter the ride height. They'll making re adjusting pinion angle/driveline angle much easier. Or if you plan to run it at the track...
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#3
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I have UMI adjustables in my El Camino.
Had a driveline vibration after lowering the car two inches, I was able to adjust the driveline angle which eliminated the vibration.
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express |
#4
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I just went for regular non-adjustables and haven't had any issues. Why add something that needs adjustment, I figured.
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1965 Pontiac LeMans. M21, 3.73 in a 12 bolt, Kauffman 461. |
#5
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Set the pinion angle and forget it in my mind; other than making sure the jam nuts are tight occasionally. I would much rather know what my pinion angle is than relying on manufacturing tolerances and ride height differences.
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#6
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I used Spohn adjustable lowers. Easier to set as you can do it on the ground or a drive on rack, all the while checking pinion angle at ride height.
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#7
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I used UMI’s with the rotor joints on top. Summit has sales on UMI stuff on occasion, it pays to check now and then.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=372 My pinion angle was way off when I lowered the car, around 5 degrees. It took a good bit of adjustment to get it back to where it should be. Took care of a high speed vibration I was having.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
#8
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Excellent, thanks everyone for your replies. I have 2 inch drop springs on my car I am restoring, its not on the road yet, so I will get a set of these and then get the angle set once its built.
Cheers, Paul.
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--> 1966 Pontiac Le Mans Convertible, Martinique Bronze, black top, Parchment interior, alloy Rallye 2's, M/T Sportsman ST's 235f/255r with redlines, 464 (455 .040 over), Performer RPM 87cc round port heads, Butler roller cam, Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, Ram Air 2.5" manifolds, 67 GTO Ram Air pan, 2.5" Magnaflow, Muncie M22, 3.55 Eaton Posi. <-- |
#9
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I have 2 inch lowering springs in the front plus the tall ball joints. I just used regular fixed umi control arms and it doesn’t look like I’m gonna have a problem but the car isn’t on the road yet
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#10
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I'm interested in putting the tall upper ball joints in my 65 Lemans. What brand/where did you get yours and are you happy with the install?
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#11
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Proforged has a 0.5” and a 0.9” taller upper balljoint. I put the 0.5” taller ones in my car last year with no regrets, wish I knew of the 0.9” taller ones tho; alignments aren’t free.
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#12
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I originally put non adjustable in mine because I didn't need to change anything. Then, it turns out that I needed to alter my pinion angle a while later to kill a drive line vibration. Soooo, I bought some adjustable uppers and swapped them again.
Just buy the adjustable type and be done with it.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#13
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Quote:
Thanks in advance for everything. |
#14
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15x4.5” Cragar wheels and no clearance issues as the A-arm is quite a ways away from the wheel. Looking at my other 67 that is stock with 15x6 wheels (Torque Thrust Ds currently installed, no idea on backspace but based on Summit’s site they are likely 3.66” BS, unless they changed the mold from 1996 or so) the A-arm is not “within” the wheel (and the wheel would not fit over the balljoint anyway) so you should be fine with any height balljoint; assuming you don’t have some deep offset 18s or something...
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#15
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I think I'll start with the .9" uppers, and if clearances look good and if it makes sense bump-steer wise, I might go with the .5" lowers (I know they would lower the car .5"). I wish I had considered these things before I tore it down as I'm not 100% sure what my front end height will be after replacing the a-arms despite using the same springs. I will rough in the alignment and after finalizing things then I'll get a real alignment on it. Thanks for the help, if you have any more advice it will be welcomed.
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