[dataway]

What is the common method for mating engine and auto trans outside the vehicle?

Obviously I have to remove the engine from the stand .... I could hang it from the chain fall ... but seems like mating a trans to a swinging engine would be a pain.

I have an engine hoist also ... I guess I could swing them both.

I could probably weld up a stand to hold the engine close to the floor by the mounts and use the chain fall for the trans.

Just wondering if there was an obvious method I am missing.

Thanks

[Sirrotica]

Sit the engine oil pan flat on the floor held up by the chainfall, (that stops the engine from swinging) and slide the transmission up to the back of the engine, start the bellhousing bolts. Lift it back up and put the convertor bolts in.

That's the way I've done it for over 4 decades, worked fine all those years.

[grivera]

I always hang the engine from the cherry picker using an engine leveler and put the trans on a trans jack to get the perfect alignment for bolting up the trans and torque converter. Brad's method sounds easier.

[ponyakr]

I recently did this.

I held the engine up, slightly off the floor, with the floor crane. Set the trans up on a small dolly, bought from Harbor Freight. Can use boards of different thicknesses, if needed to change the angle.

I have waited til the engine/trans was in the car, to install converter bolts. After you tighten one bolt, you can use that bolt to rotate the flexplate, so that you can get to the next bolt. Obviously, there are other ways to rotate the flexplate.

[slowride66]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

I recently did this.

I held the engine up, slightly off the floor, with the floor crane. Set the trans up on a small dolly, bought from Harbor Freight. Can use boards of different thicknesses, if needed to change the angle.

I have waited til the engine/trans was in the car, to install converter bolts. After you tighten one bolt, you can use that bolt to rotate the flexplate, so that you can get to the next bolt. Obviously, there are other ways to rotate the flexplate.

This is the best way to turn the flywheel I have ever used. on my 3rd worn the little teeth off.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Clut...l-Turner/A144A


SR66

[Formulajones]

I set the trans on the trans jack, which is about the same height as the engine stand. Then use the picker to get the engine off the stand and roll the trans jack over to it. I work on it this way standing up and can tilt the engine and the trans independently any way I need to line it up.

I've also done it the way that Sirrotica mentioned, gently setting the rear of the oil pan on the floor, usually padded with a moving blanket, then wiggle the trans up to it on the floor. Works if you don't have a trans jack, I just find it a little more difficult.

[tooski]

I basically do it the same way as Brad. It is a bit of a pain working bent over and on hands and knees.

[dataway]

Excellent guys ... thank you. You reminded me that I have a hydraulic jack table, my small parts paint cabinet has been sitting on it so long I forgot I have it. I can use the chain fall to hold the engine and put the trans on the jack table (it's on wheels) and roll it right up to the engine.

In the photo below you can see the modification to my engine stand that allows it to be used as a test stand, these engine mount supports take most of the weight of the engine .... as a bit of a fabricator ... I thought about figuring out a way to support the rear of the engine without using the bell housing bolt holes so the rear engine stand support could be removed and a transmission attached while it's still on the stand.

The test stand has the type of rear support that sticks into a socket at the bottom and can be removed ... if I could remove it, fabricate a replacement that does not use the bell housing bolt holes, I could mount the trans and still leave the whole shebang on the stand until I was ready to put it in the chassis.

But, I have no idea what location I would use at the rear of the engine to support it without getting in the way of the trans. I guess I could support the engine with the chain fall, remove the rear support, install the trans, then fabricate a support that went from the bottom of the stand to rear trans mount.

Not necessary ... just brain storming. I'd like to have both mated and on a stand to do some final detailing and sorting.

(Note: All the mods to the engine stand can be removed so it can still be used as a basic, rotating engine stand)

[242177P]

A pair of longer bellhousing bolts makes lining things up a little easier.
Gotta decapitate them, and cut a slot in them for a screwdriver.

[Sirrotica]

FWIW, If you take a shopping cart and cut the basket off you can set the whole assembly on the cart and wheel it around. It's not up high enough to do detailing, but as a fabricator I'm sure you could extend it up where you can work on it.

The engine goes over the cart and the transmission just hangs off the rear of the cart. The upright left over goes between the torque convertor and the rear of the oil pan. I've used a 4X4 or c couple 2X4s to support the front of the oil pan. Because the casters on the rear of a shopping cart are way to the rear it balances the load just fine.

More than one shopping cart has given it's life to act as a engine/transmission dolly. I used to have a few modified carts to wheel engine/transmission complete assemblies around my garage.

This picture gives you the idea of caster placement and balance of the whole assembly easily movable to work on it. very similar to the shopping cart balance points.



That's a 4L60E hanging on the back of that LS engine, right around 140 lbs. approximately same as a T400, bolted to a much lighter engine than a Stratostreak V8 is. The key being is the majority of the weight is resting on the rear of the dolly to allow the balance point to be near the caster on the rear.

[dataway]

Wow, that's a sweet stand right there. Very close to what I'm shooting for. I'll have to do some more brainstorming to see if I can adapt my test stand to serve this function also.

[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by grivera

I always hang the engine from the cherry picker using an engine leveler and put the trans on a trans jack to get the perfect alignment for bolting up the trans and torque converter. Brad's method sounds easier.

Pretty much the same here except I have the tranny on my motorcycle jack. Works great.

[dataway]

You guys gave me ideas .... the metal cutting has begun. Will be using the bolt holes on the back of the heads to support the rear of the engine, leaving the whole back free for the trans to bolt up while still on the stand.

[dataway]

I got a engine-to-auto bolt kit from AMK for my 68 GTO and along with the proper six bolts it contained four thin washers, almost shim thin but not quite ... was wondering ... why four instead of six? Am I missing two ... or do they only go on four of the six bolts?

[dataway]

Got a rear brace done on the left side. So far so good.

It slip fits into the mount welded to the base of the test stand. Basically everything does, radiator mount, dash panel, motor mount supports and these rear braces ... everything can be removed so you can still bolt up an engine and rotate for assembly.

For mating to the trans it will be supported by the two engine mount supports and two of these rear supports. Still leaves room for starter, oil filter, pipes so technically you could also start the engine with the trans attached and even cooling lines to the radiator.

[dataway]

Engine and trans are together. Used the lift table to position the trans.

Converter turns free, has about 3/8" clearance to flex plate. Bolted it up, all the bolts line up on the Hughes TC.

If I installed cooling lines, dip stick tube and put fluid in the trans I should be able to run the whole shebang on the stand right? Would be nice to know my rebuild on the trans is not going to make horrible grinding noises and is pumping fluid before I put it in the chassis.

Rear supports on stand seem to be working great .... I noticed there is really only about 120-150 lbs on the rear support even with the trans installed since the engine is almost balanced at the engine mounts.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by dataway

Got a rear brace done on the left side. So far so good.

Nice!

Originally Posted by 242177P

A pair of longer bellhousing bolts makes lining things up a little easier.

Gotta decapitate them, and cut a slot in them for a screwdriver.

I do this, too. Especially when joining the two under the car.

K

[grivera]

You’re converter to flexplate clearance is on the high side at 3/8”. It should be no more than 1/4” preferably 3/16”. Use hardened washers to take up space.

[Cardo]

You're probably going to need to put a yoke in the trans too to keep it from leaking out the back if you want to run it.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by grivera

You’re converter to flexplate clearance is on the high side at 3/8”. It should be no more than 1/4” preferably 3/16”. Use hardened washers to take up space.

Yep, that is what is suggested by the Hughes TC instructions.

I'm wondering, why the extra gap compared to the original TC? This TC appears to use a 13" GM core like the original ... just variations in manufacturing?

Can something I did while rebuilding the trans effect this?

Thanks