[389]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Not to be a smart Azz, but why not? What is the advantage to either mounting point? I like the compact look of the one in the OP's pick. But if one method performs better, that would be more important than the look. Many factory rear stabilizer bars bolt to reinforced lower control arms. Trying to learn something. Thank you.

I don't know why they recommend not using those control arms but they have a reason.. I'm not an engineer...lol
I know from my own experience, I didn't like the Addco rear bar and removed it when I installed my new control arms with Johnny Joint Spherical joints. It really changed my car for the better.. It felt sure footed, comfortable at any speed.

[stevep]

Originally Posted by 8LUG

The fabcraft one is how pontiac made them . Pontiac B body in the early 60"s did not have the bar to the rear control arms.

1959-1960 Pontiac wagons had a factory sway bar. I put 1 on my 60 Bonneville convertible as it was a bolt-on.

[pfilean]

I had been looking at the Fabcraft photos on their website and thought it showed the sway bar link on the inside of the frame. And indeed the instructions from 56GMC show it that way. I should have remembered this sooner but the attached photo from the 61 shop manual shows the factory sway bar and it has the link on the OUTSIDE of the frame. No tail pipe interference that way although it would probably seem close to the tire.

Either way.,the holes that exist on the inside only of my frame that I thought were for the sway bar are not like those shown in the shop manual and are only on the inside of the frame. The holes I was looking at are in line front to back and not staggered like the shop manual or the Fabcraft instructions.

It looks like to have the link located on the outside of the frame you would want the eyes of the sway bar to be 54-55 inches wide. Anyway I would need to drill the holes to match either mounting arrangement. And to drill the holes the gas tank might need to be dropped. But mine is currently full and mixed with Sta-bil for the winter. SO I have time to think about this a while. At least as I have a 61 both holes exist in the axel mount. Maybe when I was in McKinney TX last week I should have driven over to Southlake to Fabcraft and looked at one of the sway bars.

[marxjunk]

if one is good, what about 2..random pic on facebook..its a G body...first time ive ever seen anything like this though..

[marxjunk]

[56GMC]

Dave from Fabcraft sent a copy of their installation manual. Cannot post as it is too large for this site so PM me if you would like it.

[61-63]

Originally Posted by pfilean

61-63

Did you also drill your own holes in the frame? I thought the frame bracket was supposed to go in the pre-drilled holes that are still visible in your picture. I have those holes but none where your tubing bracket is located. I don't know what size angle Fabcraft uses for their bracket (stock repop I'm sure) but I would wonder if even the 2x3 you suggest would get the link far enough away to miss the pipe.

I drilled my own 3/8" holes in the inner frame both sides.

[pfilean]

61-63
Looks like holes would have to be drilled in any case. The instructions from Fabcraft look like the bracket does not go where I have some factory holes. And the factory unit bolted to the outside where I don't have holes anyway. Wonder what the factory holes were for as they are in corresponding location on both driver and passenger frame rails. Maybe the holes for the factory sway bar are one reason why Safari got different frame numbers than sedans.

[X--GASSER]

Fabcraft sway bar on our '61. RARE 2.5 exhaust. It was tight but I made it work..

[389]

I would keep an eye on that front universal. Those X pipes get real hot, they also heat the inside of the car up. I removed mine because I didn't like how my engine sounded and was rewarded with better sound, performance and a cooler cab...

[X--GASSER]

Originally Posted by 389

I would keep an eye on that front universal. Those X pipes get real hot, they also heat the inside of the car up. I removed mine because I didn't like how my engine sounded and was rewarded with better sound, performance and a cooler cab...

picture makes the clearance seem tighter than it is.. I can't see any performance loss in this case whatsoever in leaving it in place with my Len Williams 455. We've put quite a few miles on it both city and highway and haven't noticed any increase in heat in the floors, and I tucked those pipes up tight since the car is lowered. But, thanks for the input.

[pfilean]

61-63 PM sent

[hobbygto65]

I have this one on my 63 Catalina, works great.
A03-61B 61-64 Pontiac B body from Ram Air Restoration.

[61-63]

For the information of all in post #15 above I offered for sale two sets of the Fabcraft brackets for $100 each + shipping. Both sets are spoken for + a third indication of interest so consider them gone and no longer available.

[389]

You could use Jounce bumpers and not use a sway bar at all... That's what I did on my 69 el Camino.. They sell real nice veritable rate bumpers today.. I made those bumpers for the my 10 bolt, I used galvanized pipe caps..

The B body has rear steer linkage that already has a lot of oversteer. So at least in that area, a rear bar is not needed on the B body..

[56GMC]

Originally Posted by hobbygto65

I have this one on my 63 Catalina, works great.
A03-61B 61-64 Pontiac B body from Ram Air Restoration.

hobbygto65,

That was exactly the setup I was after from the beginning. However Paul at RARE was not making any more of the control arms. He was only selling the bar that was not bent properly as shown in my original post. Guess you got yours a few years ago. Would be nice to see a photo of the install.

[hobbygto65]

My bar looked just your photo of the rare bar. I had the new control arms upside down. I switch them and now it looks like its supposed to. Cars in storage so no pic.

[56GMC]

Finally got a 1" bar that fits well between the lower control arms. After drilling the holes for the 7/16" bolts made up spacers to ensure the control arms did not collapse when tightening the nuts. Planning to box the arms later when I replace the bushings.

This bar fits the '68 - 72 GM A-bodies - UMI Performance, P/N 4034. Addco also makes a bar for this application: P/N 690. Summit & Jegs carry both brands.

Car handles much better with the 1 1/8" bar in the front along with Bilsteins all around!

[tom s]

I just put the RARE bar in my 62 GP.I like the ride a lot better now.Tom

[421mike]

Tom, could you show a few pictures and any installation issues? Thanks, Mike