[djustice]

After some searching i found a 2" primary d-port header, i currently have the 1 3/4" primary hedmans headers. they fit ok, but have burned trough.
Looking for anyone that have mounted these headers in a street car with AC, PS, th400 console shifter.

https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/35160

My plan is to send these out for ceramic coating as the last set lasted 9-ish years with wrap, but the wrap did shortned the lifespan of the headers.

[78w72]

I dont have those hedders but do have the 1 3/4 hedmans on my 78... been on there for 15+ years uncoated, the paint i used has burned off & there is surface rust and stains coming through the paint thats still good. Im very happy with them & for the price they are hard to beat for fitment and installation. Stiull using the supplied paper hedman gaskets too!

mainly wanted to comment on the wrap... its nice for uncoated headers but shortens their life a lot, a friend wrapped some cheap sbc headers and they rusted through in like 5 years. Ceramic coatings reduce the heat quite a bit but just as important protects the headers from rust, I have some hooker O-port headers that were coated by a local shop ~10 years ago & they look like the day they were coated, lots of street mile, drag strip runs and even dyno time. If you ceramic coat them, consider not wrapping them, will look and last a lot longer.

[djustice]

Seems like we have the same 1 & 3/4" headers. And yes my main reason for cermic coating the new purchase is to aviod wrapping them.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by djustice

Seems like we have the same 1 & 3/4" headers. And yes my main reason for cermic coating the new purchase is to aviod wrapping them.

Mine are the 28150 i believe, the ones that will fit a manual trans and have the ball/socket type collector instead of the 3 bolt triangle flange.

If these are for the engine in your sig, you will probably benefit from the 2" headers, i went with the hooker super comp 2" on my 467 E-head stroker in a 72 firebird, they are a tight fit but supposed to be a tuned header, im very happy & surprised the ceramic coat has lasted this long. Pic of the hookers

Research who you send them to, a friend has 2 sets of jet-hot coated headers, the ones on the car rusted after about 5 years, still look OK but has a lot of rust spots & stains coming though the coating, another set that were never installed also have signs of rust spots starting after 10-15 years. Heard lots of complaints of jet hot coated headers, at least on the ones you buy coated, a private coater will do a much better job.

[Formulajones]

Ceramic coatings for me (have a handful of them) last depending on where I was living.
In Ohio where it's humid and moist pretty much year round I would get maybe 6-7 years out of Jet Hot coatings before I'd start to see mild pitting coming through. That was just the norm living in that humid climate.

Out here in Arizona where it's very dry, 15 years and still looking good

Lately, since Jet Hot coatings have gotten more expensive and fewer places seem to be doing it, and the fact I'd have to ship them off across several states to get it done, we've resorted to some different high temp powder coating processes as there are several places local to me. Redid dad's headers with the high temp silver powder coat about 7 years ago when he moved out here to Arizona, they still look like the day they were coated, it's held up perfectly, and the cost is much easier to swallow. Was about $300 and I can just drop them off and pick them up. Verses $700 for the last Jet Hot job I had done plus shipping them back and forth.

Actually getting ready to have 2 more sets done with high temp powder coat.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Ceramic coatings for me (have a handful of them) last depending on where I was living.
In Ohio where it's humid and moist pretty much year round I would get maybe 6-7 years out of Jet Hot coatings before I'd start to see mild pitting coming through. That was just the norm living in that humid climate.

Out here in Arizona where it's very dry, 15 years and still looking good

Lately, since Jet Hot coatings have gotten more expensive and fewer places seem to be doing it, and the fact I'd have to ship them off across several states to get it done, we've resorted to some different high temp powder coating processes as there are several places local to me. Redid dad's headers with the high temp silver powder coat about 7 years ago when he moved out here to Arizona, they still look like the day they were coated, it's held up perfectly, and the cost is much easier to swallow. Was about $300 and I can just drop them off and pick them up. Verses $700 for the last Jet Hot job I had done plus shipping them back and forth.

Actually getting ready to have 2 more sets done with high temp powder coat.

Yep, I went with a local company that did powder & ceramic coatings.. they coated the inside & exterior of the headers, this was ~10 years ago & the car has lots of street miles & drag strip use... in Iowa which is very humid along with extreme winters that cause lots of condensation, so far the headers look like the day they were done, no signs of rust anywhere.. after the dyno session a little bit of the shiny silver/chrome color faded for an inch or so right near the heads but the company said the coating is still fully intact, just lost a little color. Cost $250 when they were done, probably closer to $300-350 now, but like FJ said, thats about half of what bigger companies charge & you have to ship the headers.

[djustice]

My impression is that headers that come finished with ceramic coating is not as good as a dedicated ceramic coating shop. So that is the way i plan on doing it, buying them with black protective coating and have a local to me shop sandblast, prepp and coat them. planning on contacting this company that is 63 miles from me : https://www.fiskes.no/bil/mc/

And yes it is the 28150 headman i have now, i needed to bang 1 tube a little so i expect no less from 2" primary. I can probably re-use my ball & socket collector reducers since i have O2 bongs in both sides.
I really like the ball&socket style flange as you can angle the exhaust pipes sligthly up/down/left/rigth etc. insted of doing pie cuts on the pipes to get a good angle.