[TheCirque]

My head is spinnin’. Any advice on how to start considering suspension stuff. Id like to update a “driver” with a little performance. Not race-car but Resto-mod, maybe? The 45 year old set-up is pretty spent at the moment.

All the name brands im sure are great but i was curious what sells you on one over the other. Prices seem relatively same i think.

QA1, DSE, Global West, RideTech, SpeedTech, blah, blah, blah.

[JLMounce]

What specifically do you want the car to do better? If it just has worn out parts like shocks, crusty bushings and saggy springs, going with stock replacement stuff will absolutely make the car feel better.

It has been my experience helping quite a number of people on this, that what they want the car to do, does not require exotic upgrades.

The vast amount of people here will be thrilled with a car that uses stock control arms, a slightly larger front sway bar and a set of slight lowering springs and shocks to match, coupled with a modern alignment. You're not spending oodles of money, you're not re-engineering the wheel, you're just tuning the stock components a little better. This type of setup helps with cornering grip and typically gets rid of that "floaty" feeling that factory sprung and damped cars have.

To that end, I really like the RideTech Street Grip kits. They have mild lowering, give the car properly weighted springs and have shocks valved specific to the combination. If you're needing to rebuild the factory control arms, those kits come with new bushings as well. Really takes a lot of guesswork and parts shopping out of the equation.

You can of course do it a little cheaper if you want to source your own parts from various outlets. But follow what that type of kit is providing and it's hard to go wrong.

[rohrt]

What car are you working with?

[67Sprint6]

I rebuilt the suspension last winter on a 140k mile Lemans. I used stock replacement Eaton springs, rubber bushings, ames prebuilt control arms. I did put on KYB shocks, a tighter steering box from the sponsor, and a 1 1/8 inch sway bar.
Stuck with manual drums, did a nice rebuild on the system with what seemed like good parts to me.
I am happy with the way it handles, even in mildly spirited driving, and even surprised how well it stops.
Doesn't make any noise, plenty of clearance and feels solid.
Of course it still feels like a 1960s car, not something it is isn't.
I'll try to attach a picture of how it sits.

[TheCirque]

Originally Posted by rohrt

What car are you working with?

81 Trans Am is the car. Sadly under-powered 305, bone stock but it is fun to cruise.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by TheCirque

81 Trans Am is the car. Sadly under-powered 305, bone stock but it is fun to cruise.

PTFB-TTF!

PTFB has very nice upgraded suspension kits for 2nd gen birds or individual parts that are quite a bit cheaper priced than those other brands. I have their full GT kit along with tubular uppers & their subframe connectors that are very nice & dont cut into the floor like the DSE types.

As mentioned OEM type new bushings, poly sway bar bushings & some good shocks will work great for a basic street car, dont really need the aftermarket stuff unless you plan to do road racing or auto-x stuff. Can also use the common moog type front springs and cut ~1 full coil for a ~1.5-2" front lowering... I did that on 2 of my birds and they have a nice stance that isnt too low... & handle very good on the street.

[vertigto]

I would also consider BMR Suspension. Quality stuff at a reasonable price...and made in the USA.

[kingbuzzo]

Even if it wasn't intended for road racing would there be any weight savings in converting to tubular or not worth the cost?

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by kingbuzzo

Even if it wasn't intended for road racing would there be any weight savings in converting to tubular or not worth the cost?

There's very little to no weight savings for most tubular control arms over the factory stamped steel arms. Most tubular arms are made to be beefier so they don't deflect and provide added strength where performance driving comes into play.

Benefits of the tubular arms in many cases are the ability to run additional caster and relocated ball joint mounts to accommodate those higher caster levels and work properly with taller effective knuckle heights.

Weight savings in the suspension can come from aluminum knuckles, multi-piece rotors with aluminum hats and aluminum vs cast iron calipers.

In the case of the RideTech Street Grip kit, you get composite leaf springs for F-bodies which do save a bunch of unsprung weight as well.

[HWYSTR455]

Every time I stray from GW arms I find deficiencies and end up going to GWs, hands down the best out there. Buy once and done.

They may be more than you need right now, but down the road, you will never have to worry about your choice or having to replace them.


.

[Mr Twister]

Yes, Global West for me as well. F- body Lower control arms are currently in production and on sale. They answer the phone too.

[Skip Fix]

And at Global you can usually get Doug on the phone if you have some questions. They have a lot of good youtube videos also on their products and why they made them that way.

[78w72]

Dave at PTFB answers the phone too... and will answer any questions you have about his parts or whats best for your car.

[TheCirque]

I know Global West (GW). Who is PTFB?

[HWYSTR455]

Pro-Touring F-Body:

https://www.pro-touringf-body.com/


.

[JLMounce]

Pro-Touring F Body.

They've got a lot of nice parts and they specialize primarily in second gen firebirds. I will say their offerings lean a little bit further to the racing side than the other businesses already discussed. Definitely worth checking them out though.

https://www.pro-touringf-body.com/

[Tarl]

Another vote for RideTech Street Grip, I have it on my 68 firebird and very happy with it. Unsure if I would use the Delrin bushings again. Toss in with a fast ratio steering box, taller outer tie rods, billet tie rod connectors (hex shaped for easy adjustment) and tubular upper control arms (I wish I went with SPC).

[78w72]

PTFB does have race type parts but also have kits & parts more geared for street use. I have their GT kit on my 72 firebird that is intended as a street or maybe entry level race, it give about a 1.5" drop over factory front/rear and rides & handles excellent on the street. Also have their upper tubular A-arms, subframe connectors & some other parts.

Best value out there for aftermarket suspension parts based on prices Ive seen for the other big brands.

[Skip Fix]

Dave does has some good parts and tries to continue to improve them.
What car A body F Body-first or second gen?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Dave does has some good parts and tries to continue to improve them.
What car A body F Body-first or second gen?

81 TA