[fasteddy]

Hey guys, I got under the 63 last night and it is all Greek to me. Common sense tells me that the 6 bolts that hold the rope tunnel to the bell housing have to come out. My question is: "will the engine and bell housing come out together okay or not? Also will the rope tunnel need to be supported (floor jack) when the engine/bell housing is pulled ahead? Thanks Eddy

[FT LB]

Beside the bolts connecting the torquetube to the bellhousing, you will also need to remove the bolts holding the "torque shaft" (inside tube) to the flywheel. I believe there's a removable plate to allow access from below.

I removed the bellhousing before lifting engine out of the bay, but you may be able to keep intact... depending on clearance for tilting engine.

Afterwards it'd be best to put something under the t'tube to keep it from swaying, though it was fine when i didn't.

Tim

[63Banshee]

On an old slant 4 you can bet the mounts are broken and you should support the back of the engine before removing the torque tube bolts. You should also support the torque shaft (rod) within the tube before removing the shaft bolts. It's best to support the tube with a jack once you are ready to pull the engine. It will offer some control and possibly needed adjustment for clearance. I think you will get the same results pulling the engine with the bellhousing on, only it's easier to remove the bellhousing when the engine is out of the car.

[fasteddy]

Pardon my thick dutch head-but-are the bolts up against the flywheel? I guess I would have to remove the clutch and presser plate first-no? Or is the access panel your are talking about the small plate on the bottom of the torque tube just behind the bell housing? I have a wide open front-no radiator or cross piece so I should not have to lift the engine much. Thanks

[Peter Serio]

are you working on car with a 4 cyl engine or a 326 V8? I have taken both out & put both types back in & there is a trick to getting the 326 engine back in the car.

[jusjay]

If you have a auto trans, you have to remove the torque bolts at the back of the bellhousing then remove the bolts for the torque shaft at the flywheel. If standard trans, the torque tube bolts and the torque shaft bolts will be remove at the back of the bellhousing. The clutch assy will be remove as a unit inside of the bellhousing with the motor.

[fasteddy]

Thanks guys-this is a 4 cylinder with a 3 speed manual. If I take out the six bolts holding the tube to the bellhousing, will the coupler slide out of the clutch?

[Larry_Rarus]

Here you go... Right from the factory service manual.

[Larry_Rarus]

Here's what the bellhousing looks like with the torque tube off. The input shaft is bolted to the back of the bellhousing.

[jusjay]

Alittle late with my pic but every picture is worth a 1000 words, right!

[63Banshee]

You should consider buying a service manual. They can be found on ebay every other week.

[fasteddy]

Thanks all- that explains it well-even for a conventional driveline guy. I have a service manual ordered and on the way. Thanks again everybody. eddy

[Peter Serio]

One of mine was a 4-cyl car, auto transaxle.

[elefantrider]

Nice pictures of a 4cyl auto engine being pulled. Load leveler sure makes the job easier.

[elefantrider]

Originally Posted by Peter Serio

One of mine was a 4-cyl car, auto transaxle.

Looks like you're grabbing it by front factory grab loop and the rear belhousing with a longer bolt Usually I grab V8s by the head accessory holes. This will not work for a 4cyl, due to the uneven pull. That timing cover grab loop really comes in handy.. Wish my car still had one.