#81  
Old 07-20-2016, 07:48 AM
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I looked at examples last night, and yeah, black would be the way to go.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #82  
Old 07-28-2016, 09:18 AM
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So go up this morning to pick the car up, it's ready to come home for me to get started on trim out and assembly.

Once I have that done I will take it back, have th stripes installed, and any blemishes repaired.

Here's a shot the one body guy just shot me, and it's waiting to go onto the rollback.

I'll get some more shots once I get it home....

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #83  
Old 07-28-2016, 01:29 PM
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Don't you just love it when your car is released from paint jail?

Anxious to see it striped and trimmed out.

Scott

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  #84  
Old 07-28-2016, 02:14 PM
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Yes I do! Wasn't too bad really, a little over 16 months, and there was about a 6 or so month stall. Looks like it racked up about 550 hours.

They will do the stripes once I'm done, there was worry about out gassing/curing of the paint.

And it is finally home. Whew. Now the trim out begins, as well as assembly.

Guess I'll start with finishing any areas that were repaired that were intended to be covered in bed liner, and yes, the intent is because it's a driver. Will also use internal frame coating and rocker anti-rust, etc, on areas to prevent rust.

Then will move on to exterior trim, window fuzzies, drip rail molding, rocker molding, bumper, door handles, mirrors, etc.

Here's a shot of it safely in the garage, and will start knocking out stuff this weekend....

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #85  
Old 07-28-2016, 05:24 PM
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Happy for you! Looks great, its a great feeling when all the trim goes back on too! Even better when you take the first ride!

  #86  
Old 07-29-2016, 02:33 PM
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Sweet Baby J! That looks incredible! Can't wait to see it with the stripes.

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  #87  
Old 08-01-2016, 08:48 AM
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So was in the garage this weekend, even though it was a sauna on high. With the rains and heat, it was at times a little tough to breathe even. But nothing could have kept me out of there!

Got some stuff done, drip rail moldings, window fuzzies, and started mocking up the wheel opening moldings.

Drip rail moldings, there was some paint build up on the rails, prevented the molding from fitting the way I liked, so took a razor blade and trimmed some high spots, and any area that exposed primer, I hit with some clear nail polish. The note in the catalog mentions that some minor imperfections may appear on the moldings, and mine had 2 very small areas that had dents, not very noticeable, such is life.

Window fuzzies. So these were the PUI marketed fuzzies, which was on the car before, unfortunately though, the holes didn't line up from last set. As all are probably aware, the 1/4 window curve is the challenge when installing these, and you have to move it back and forth to get the closest fit. After about 4 hours of frustrating, sweating, cussin' work, handful of stripped and snapped screws, 2 broken drill bits, I had a satisfactory install. The passenger side has a slight uneven lay on the outside panel, the thin rubber strip, but think I'm just going to leave it. Have to stare at it to see it, so think I can live with it. The 1/4 glass doesn't go down far enough to get one screw in, not sure if I'm going to go through the trouble to pull the glass or not.

Most of the day was spent on organization, like laying out all the bolts, clips, etc, and review of panel fitment/alignment. Also clean up of 'construction debris' from the body shop. The engine and frame rails, as well as a few other areas were covered in plastic by the body shop, all that coming off made even more of a mess.

Made a list of items that were missing, will have to place an order here soon so I can finish up the exterior portion of the build.

So will focus on the wheel opening moldings next weekend, and building out the bumper. I need to clean/prep the tail lens buckets, clean up a few of the brackets, ensure I have all the lower valance pieces/bolts, and tape off the body so there's no damage from potential contact when installing.

I will post pics of that stuff once it's done, the stuff I did this past weekend wasn't very flashy, so no pics, unless someone asks for specific ones.

@ time spent this past weekend = 14 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Nice knot on head from banging it on the exposed inner roof - 2
* Associated lesion with above incident - 2
* One nasty metal sliver from a 'curly-cue' drilling hole - 2
* Minor random abrasions, elbows, knees, and neck - 1
* TOTAL Score - 7

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)

Drip Rail Moldings - 3
Window Fuzzies - 5



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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #88  
Old 08-01-2016, 01:00 PM
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Glad to hear you got it home and are getting it on the road. I can't wait to see it finished, I love the paint color you chose.

  #89  
Old 08-01-2016, 03:49 PM
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Thanks, I'm happy with the color, even though it does have a slight purple hue to it. I was looking for something without a purple hue, but after looking at sooo many different colors, I kind of gave up! After it was sprayed, and saw it in the sun, I felt it was a good choice, and definitely liked it.

Not having a project car in the garage took it's toll on me, oddly, I kind of felt lost. I honestly can't remember a time where I had such a long break without working on something. I got so much stuff done around the house, pretty much where I have nothing left. Well, without spending 20k anyway! Need to upgrade my kitchen for one.

I'm guessing I have about 600-800 hours left of solid work on this project, the big constraint will be money for remaining parts. Guessing about 12-15k there. My hopes are to make it to Norwalk next year, we will see. If I work 8 hours a day, for every Saturday & Sunday in a row, that's about a year, so it is possible. Not likely, but possible. I'll track my time on here, as I do stuff, will be interesting to see how it works out.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #90  
Old 08-14-2016, 04:59 PM
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Sorry for slow posting, though I have been knocking some stuff out. With the heat index in the 105-115 range, it's tough to be motivated into going out in the garage.

Some have probably seen my rear deck and how I originally mounted a air of 6x9s and a pair of 10" subs. I did that in like the mid-90s, and always wanted to clean it up some, and build boxes for the subs, and not run them free-air. So I did...

Here's a shot of the original deck, was 1" solid pine, splitting from moisture, heat, and age.

Then some shots of me mocking, measuring, and creating the new rear deck. I used the original pieces and made some cardboard cutouts, held it up to the deck, and made it a little cleaner.

You can see I created 2 centerlines, one from front to rear, and one from side to side of the car. I then measured, and spaced where the speakers would go, and used the supplied templates with the speakers to make the holes.

I created 2 separate sides, for two reasons, one, the rear deck in my car isn't completely flat, had a slight arch to it, and to take some of that out, I even beat the forward portion down a bit. Second reason is that with the sub boxes, as one piece, it would be big, and difficult to manage/install.

So the spec for the subs is .65, I used .67 cubic feet (internal), since that's just the way it worked out. I had to use the area I had to work with, but feel it's close enough. Built the box, cut the deck, and glued/screwed the box to the bottom of the deck. (all 3/4" MDF). Then covered it with sub box carpet. I have some PV stack corner protectors that I will put on the bottom corners so they don't get beat up in the trunk.

On the bottom of the deck, I sprayed it with bed liner, so in case someone DOES stick their' head up there and look, it won't be raw MDF, and not look too bad. The bed liner should help keep the MDF from absorbing moisture too. It looks good, has a slight texture, is dry to the touch, and has a matt finish.

Once in the car, I will cover the top and down the back seat area with Dynamat, and then the deck insert will go over top, will look great.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #91  
Old 08-14-2016, 05:20 PM
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Also prepped and applied the Dynamat to the trunk floor. I removed the jack bracket, and the hold down loop, to make the floor a little more flat. I had POR-15'd the trunk floor when I first got the car, in the early 90s, and it is still perfect. I had coated it with splatter paint, grey & black, and any areas that were loose I hit lightly with a wire brush to remove, so the Dynamat would stick good. Once I get all the Dynamat done and the deck and amp board mounted, I will touch up the sides of the inside quarters and wheel houses with splatter, and top off with clear engine paint for durability.

Working on the amp board now, will mount the amps, a pair of 1 farad caps, a inertia cutoff switch for the fuel pump, and a fuse for the pump.

Included a shot of the inertia switch, application is a 2010 Ford Crown Vic, and is supplied with a convenient bracket. There's a couple different part numbers, but here's one from AutoZone:

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-deliver...?checkfit=true

Also got the pigtail, it's a Dorman part number 645-920. Found it online for $18 shipped.

Will have to see if the Crown Vic switch is too sensitive or not, if so, I will trade it out for a Mustang one or something.

Also, prepped the bumper, cleaned it up, checked for any chips, flaking or lifting, and coated the inside with truck bed liner to help prevent future flaking.

@ time spent on above efforts = 14 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Nice knot on head from banging it on the trunk lid, several times in the same spot - 3
* Associated lesion with above incident - 2
* Minor random abrasions arms from working around the sheet metal of rear deck - 1
* TOTAL Score - 6

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
*Rear deck and speaker boxes build - 4
*DynaMat install - 2

Don't ask me why I chose to do the rear deck and trunk at this time, it was probably because I was sick of looking at the old one as nasty as it was!

.
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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #92  
Old 08-15-2016, 12:34 AM
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Sweet! I need to upgrade my sound game. Feeling very inadequate right now.

Good idea on the inertia switch. I might xerox that.

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  #93  
Old 08-15-2016, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidward View Post
Sweet! I need to upgrade my sound game. Feeling very inadequate right now.

Good idea on the inertia switch. I might xerox that.
I was considering a shallow mount sub, and a smaller box, could have made the height of the box like only 6" deep, and had just slightly under .6 CF. Even calculated at 4" deep and it came in at .3 CF, still acceptable for the shallow mount sub. But. I had already purchased the full size subs, so here I am.

Only reason I thought about it is that the enclosures do hang into the trunk compartment enough to absorb some storage space, but feel it's still better than if I were to carry a spare, so it's kind of a wash.

Also considered enclosing the 6x9s, but some 6x9s can't handle the pressure, due to voice coil wire diameter, so left them free air.

I ran subs free air for a long time, and it sounded dang good for what it was. Many who heard it were impressed, but I knew it would sound better with enclosures. A simplified way of doing it would be to buy some bare enclosures and hang them from the bottom of the deck, but the challenge would be to find ones that are the right size (and fit in the space available)

One thing about the inertia switch is it has to be mounted on a solid, ridged surface, and as upright as possible. That can be a challenge, but think the torsion rod brackets will work for it. Only drawback to mounting the switch in the trunk is, you have to get out of the car to reset it. (not that big of a deal)

I should update the 1/2 line and pump install thread with the inertia switch info, may still do that.

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #94  
Old 08-16-2016, 04:21 AM
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At one point I had wanted to go touch screen video/audio because my dash was a mess, and would need fab'ing to make it worthwhile. Since I found a good dash, I will stick with a stock look, and go with a modern bluetooth media player. I'm thinking a pair of 6x9's in back, 6's in the kick panels, and a single sub (probably a 10, maybe a 12).

I have a learning curve to catch up with on stereo stuff.

I will stay tuned in to your build. Pun intended!

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  #95  
Old 08-16-2016, 08:13 AM
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Yeah I think I recall you thinking about mod-ing the dash and doing a double din, was just thinking about that the other day. I haven't chosen a head unit yet, but did want to again think about doing a double din. I will have aftermarket AC, and controls, so I have a little bit of latitude with what I can do in that real estate, could probably make something work and look good.

I also saw some single din models that had the pop out touch screens, BUT, because of the way the dash is stepped there, I think the screen would never tilt far enough to be able to read it, like, the top of the screen would be tilted toward the rear of the car.

6x9s with 6.5s in the kicks is not a bad setup, and if you add a sub it really helps. I've tried a bunch of different sub installs, like box in the trunk, firing into the back of the seat from the trunk, and the free air setup I just pulled out. By far, the drivers facing into the compartment is the best option, all the other stuff sounds muffled to me, even the ones under the front seats. I ran just the 6x9s with the subs free air for a long time, it sounded pretty good, surprised many folks. I ran as much of a full range driver for a sub as I could find, and I didn't cross it over. It was acceptable, but you had to turn it up to a certain level to overcome the shape of the interior, and to over come road noise. That didn't make rear passengers too happy, but hey, they choose to be back there! Heh-heh!

I have some components for the front, will most likely run kicks this time around, and probably mount the tweeter on the dash. Will figure that out when the time comes.

I refuse to run anything but class D amps anymore, just makes way more sense. Don't have to run monster cables and doesn't suck a ton of power. The ones I have list a peak power consumption of 35a, which is pretty good for true 400W RMS. (200x2) Did want to run Focal amps, but wanted to keep costs down some.

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #96  
Old 08-24-2016, 07:40 AM
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So the inertia switch from the Crown Vic is a little too sensitive for my taste, think a big bump in the road would trigger it. I will have to order a Mustang one and see if that works or not.

I finished out the amp mounting board, and included the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Once I find a suitable inertia switch, I will figure out where to mount and work it into the harness I made.

I'll get the amp board, rear deck with enclosures mounted this weekend and provide some pics. The pic of the amp board here is when it was almost done, and have to forgive the background mess!

My car from the factory used a felt trunk mat, that only covers 2/3rds of the trunk floor, which I don't particularly care for. So I purchased one that was for a Cutlass, which is full size, 2 piece, and made out of the typical rubber used on some earlier years.

The Cutlass one overlaps the trunk drop offs, but due to the pinch welds in the 68-72 A-bodies, the mat has to be trimmed to lay level. It also covers the area on the rear ledge and hides the tail lamp harness.

@ time spent on above efforts = 6 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Amp board - 0
* Trunk Mat Fitting and Install - 0
* TOTAL Score - 0

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
*Amp board build - 2
*Trunk Mat install - 1
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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #97  
Old 08-24-2016, 05:30 PM
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Love the scoring! Busted knuckles score... It's like playing a fight game - "...extreme destruction score multiplier" and "Ultimate death move score bonus". But you have to say all that in the right voice, like the guy who does the radio spots for monster truck events: "Sunday, Sunday, Sunday!"

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
  #98  
Old 08-25-2016, 10:36 AM
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Heh-heh! Yeah, I figured it would add a little humor!

Got the bumper hung, did all the light housings, cleaned, sprayed reflective paint on them, mounted, and did the plate light and holder. One thing on the repop bumper is that the brackets, the area that the light housings bolt to, were off, the gaps were different from side to side, so have to wobb out the holes to even it out. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning.

@ time spent on above effort = 3 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Bumper build out and Install - .5 (minor abrasions)
* TOTAL Score - .5

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
Light Housing Adjustments - 1
Bumper Hanging - 2 (Care was taking to not damage paint)


.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #99  
Old 08-25-2016, 03:56 PM
Hunter98TA Hunter98TA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Heh-heh! Yeah, I figured it would add a little humor!

Got the bumper hung, did all the light housings, cleaned, sprayed reflective paint on them, mounted, and did the plate light and holder. One thing on the repop bumper is that the brackets, the area that the light housings bolt to, were off, the gaps were different from side to side, so have to wobb out the holes to even it out. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning.

@ time spent on above effort = 3 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Bumper build out and Install - .5 (minor abrasions)
* TOTAL Score - .5

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
Light Housing Adjustments - 1
Bumper Hanging - 2 (Care was taking to not damage paint)


.
Is the bumper original or repo? I'd like to see some pics so I can see how it lines up. Mine is a repo from Ames and I'm not sure how the gaps should be.

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  #100  
Old 08-26-2016, 08:29 AM
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It's an Ames bumper. Which gaps do you mean? The ones I'm talking about are the gaps towards the center of the bumper between the tail light housings and the bumper itself. The driver side was off by about 1/4-1/3 inch, the gap was larger than the passenger side.

There's 3 bolts on each that hold the light housing on the bumper, and 2 alignment studs (plastic) on the housing. Those go into the brackets that bolt to the bumper, and those I had to enlarge to close the gap. It allowed me to move the housing towards the center of the car more.

As for the rest of the bumper, if I'm going to be picky, all along the very edge of the bumper, there are grind/file marks where it was cleaned up before it was chromed, and it's kind of rough. It could have easily been made smooth with just a little extra work. But I think even the factory ones looked that way.

As for shape, the contours, and overall shape of the bumper is good-very good, and the ends are formed as they should be. There were no twists in the one I have, and the ends are not too far in or out. They are even side to side.

If you look at the one shot of the bumper on the car, at the lenses, you can see there's still about a <1/4 inch gap difference. It's so close though you kind of have to stare at it, and only reason I notice is because I know what I'm looking at/for.

EDIT: Guess it would help if I added the pics! Thought I had done that!

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