[cleveweld]

My wiper motor continued running after switch was turned off. I had to unplug power to it to get it to stop. According to the Tempest shop manual the problem is most likely the park switch.

So I drilled out the 8 rivets that hold the wiper assembly together. After separating the 2 halves I could see the park switch on bottom side of terminal board and it had a piece broke off. I attempted a repair by soldering a small piece of flattened copper wire to replace broken piece. I didn't trust my repair as a long term solution.

I spotted an NOS Delco wiper terminal board on Ebay and bought it so I could do a proper repair. It came with screws and nuts to mount it. I had to solder the motor wires to the new terminal board. I had rivets to reassemble the 2 halves back together. My rivets have a flat head as opposed to oval but nobody will see the bottom.

I was able to use the 2 gears that I have but I did see NOS gears available on Ebay.

[cleveweld]

About 4 years ago I rebuilt my Rochester model BC and it has never run right. Car has been idling a little rough and stalling when I slow down.
I recently tried to buy a rebuilt carb. on Ebay and that didn't work out when they sent me wrong carb.

I used a Delco Rochester rebuild kit initially. I decided to try and rebuild my carb again this time using a new Walker kit. As I removed carb and dismantled, this is what I found.

Carb to manifold gasket wrong with center hole too large. I found a gasket I can use amungst my stuff that has metal inside. The incorrect gasket was paper and half of it stuck to intake when I tried to remove it.

The vacuum tube from carb base to choke housing had no packing under the hex nut. I didn't know one belonged here till I read the Tempest shop manual more thoroughly. The Walker kit comes with this thick packing. I also applied some clear silicone where the choke tube goes into carb base to prevent vacuum leakage there.

I didn't even know till yesterday that the Delco Rochester kit came with a tool for setting floats at correct level. The shop manual shows this tool as J-9190.
I previously had not made any float level adjustments.

After everything was back together I started the engine and it idled smoothly but had a gas leak where the filter goes in. I put a large 1" wrench on it and it felt snug but I cranked it down tighter and was able to stop the leak.

This morning I drove the car around town for about 5 minutes and it didn't stall!! I'm thinking that the vacuum leaks were causing stalling and idling issues. I need to read the shop manual more thoroughly when doing a job like this so that I don't miss important things like the choke tube packing.

[Bill Hanlon]

My Dad always sad "When all else fails, look in the manual for instructions."

[cleveweld]

Since I put the A/C belt on and charged the system the pulley side of clutch has rattled very loudly when engine is running. The pulley side of clutch is made from 2 pieces with some sort of plastic or epoxy material between them. The plastic material is blown out allowing the 2 metal parts to rattle together.

The 4 cylinder Tempests with A/C used a large 6-7/8" diameter compressor pulley. I found an NOSR remanufactured clutch that was listed as fitting 1970's Caterpillar equipment.

Because the A/C system is charged I had to work on the compressor in place. After unbolting and removing front bracket I propped the compressor up on a block of wood so I could put tools on it.

I have an A/C clutch removal kit and a large pair of snap ring pliers.

What became a real challenge was making the shaft key stay in place. Because of the clutch's electro magnet, the shaft is permanently magnetized and the key would jump right out of the slot. I got it to stay by putting some grease on it and after several attempts I was finally able to get the new clutch on.

The compressor and clutch run smoothly and quietly now. One more thing checked off of my large to do list!

[cleveweld]

I had a trans fluid leak previously and thought it was leaking at the pan gasket. Recently after repairing a broken e-clip in transmission valve body I replaced the pan gasket. I noticed a puddle of trans fluid on garage floor and found the leak was coming from the shifter cable. It was leaking where the metal end piece is crimped onto plastic cable. Apparently this is also a common problem with Corvair shifter cables. The shifter cable leaked until fluid level got down below cable. So much fluid leaked out I had to put a pan under car to catch it.

A few months ago I saw an NOS Tempest shifter cable on Ebay but didn't buy it because I didn't know I needed it. The Corvair guys had a couple different solutions for this issue. Buy some heat shrink sleeving with a 4:1 shrink ratio because it would need to go over the shifter end of cable. The cable would need to be separated from shifter and cable removed from inside car and pulled out through grommet in floor. This would be a lot of work.

The other method would be to use a product called "Rescue tape". It is a self fusing silicon tape. It must be stretched out as you wrap it. This seemed like a better idea because I wouldn't have to remove cable from inside of car. I would still need to remove cable from transmission to have room to wrap cable. The rescue tape arrived yesterday and I did the repair. I bought a clear tape so it wouldn't be too noticeable. I then added more trans fluid and the repair is holding.