[79 Phoenix]

While I'm working on the underside, I am trying to figure out what to do with my drivers door. Just the crimped area of lower corner remains and it's rusted to the point of broken on lower horizontal part. There is a door I have found that I'm sure has been repaired that I am considering but it's primer covered and I dont know what's under the primer... ANY THOUGHTS OR SUGGESTIONS?

[unruhjonny]

well, it looks like (from the third attached picture) that the primered door will need repairs to the backing structure like yours;
since it’s loose, you could look inside to see if more rot is there, and “repair work” has been hidden by the primer.

[79 Phoenix]

Seller told me he's had door since 1986 but didn't use because his friend had a better one for a good price. Said it's been stored inside since then. Rust-wise it seems to have held up pretty well... He sent two pictures before primer...Not the best but better than nothing...

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix

Seller told me he's had door since 1986 but didn't use because his friend had a better one for a good price. Said it's been stored inside since then. Rust-wise it seems to have held up pretty well... He sent two pictures before primer...Not the best but better than nothing...

Good points! He did send before primer shots... They help but only way to see inside is to do it "in person". Accoring to him previous repairs done in 80's.

[79 Phoenix]

Made a little progress today... Got passenger side brake lines off and wheel cylinder off. Cleaned and primed backing plate. Got 1 new stud for hub as there was 1 casualty getting the brake drum off... New install new races in hub along with new wheel bearings. Then front brake shoes and drums. Makes me remember why I love disc brakes!

[79 Phoenix]

Here is what's on my trim tag...

ST 71 23337 PON 142399 BDY
TR 230 19 19 PNT
05C

I think I have most of it figured out but...

Does anyone know what TR 230 means?
Or what 05C means?

['ol Pinion head]

TR 230 is the trim code, Black Parody Cloth w Vinyl accents. Same front seat upholstery pattern as ordered in my HO T-37 Coupe.

The Coupes (2 door post cars) have a wider rear seat, so slightly different pattern in the rear. My 71 1/2 HO GT-37 also has standard interior, but Blue Parody Cloth w vinyl accents. A med blue was not avail w the extra cost all vinyl seat interior.

05C is the body build date code. May, 3rd week

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

TR 230 is the trim code, Black Parody Cloth w Vinyl accents. Same front seat upholstery pattern as ordered in my HO T-37 Coupe.

The Coupes (2 door post cars) have a wider rear seat, so slightly different pattern in the rear. My 71 1/2 HO GT-37 also has standard interior, but Blue Parody Cloth w vinyl accents. A med blue was not avail w the extra cost all vinyl seat interior.

05C is the body build date code. May, 3rd week

That's cool. Thanks for decoding! Soon I will be talking with someone about re-doing my seats. I'm guessing I should redo with the standard fabric/vinyl rather than all vinyl because the trim plate says fabric/vinyl? My GT-37 I had years ago had all vinyl which I liked but I wouldn't want to hurt this car's value...

[79 Phoenix]

Got a new door! My current door lower front corner is actually used up. Nothing to repair without fabricating a new corner which is beyond my skill level. So I got a really great deal on a new driver's door... I needed to buy both front doors to get the deal so I have a pretty nice passenger door which I will probably sell. Here is picture of old door corner and new door. New door needs some work but it's something I can do myself...

[79 Phoenix]

I will be wanting to install new springs and shocks among other suspension parts...

Any idea what I should be looking for for GT-37 shocks? I like the stability of KYB Gas-ajust, but would that be detrimental re: being non-original?

Should springs be just 71 Lemans hardtop springs? MOOG has different numbers. I like firmer ride not mushy.

Regarding the engine, I have been planning to rebuild current engine. It supposedly has 189,000 miles on it and is original as far as I know. It is the 250 HP 350. Would going with better heads also ruin originality and consequently the value? Also with that high mileage I'm thinking it might need to be bored and new pistons... More than just rings, bearings and valve job. I may have an opportunity to buy another 350 (71 I think) with mild Crane HMV cam. and a 4 bbl that is a running engine. (Sounded pretty good on facebook video anyway)

That's enough questions for now! Any opinions welcome! Thanks!

[Scarebird]

I ran 1971 Olds 442 FE2 springs on my 71; a bit firmer.

Olds was way ahead of the others as far as "A" body suspension.

['ol Pinion head]

For my '71 HO 223 cars, I ordered stock spec coil springs from Coil Spring Specialities in St Mary's Kansas. Have used them several times on other projects & am quite happy with the results. Need to keep in mind there are standard spec springs for a '70 1/2 GT-37 or full 71 model year GT-37, AND there are the stiffer Ride & Handling springs (option Y96). Coil Spring Specialist has the factory spring charts & can mfg springs for custom builds/ deletion of addition of front end weight. Y96 spec springs will raise a non Y96 equipped GT-37 or GTO's chassis nearly an inch both front & rear. That is measured from the bottom of the front & rear of the rocker panel.

'71 233 series 2door Coupes or 2 door hardtops are typically considerably lighter than an endura nosed 71 LeMans Sport or GTO. Both of the latter take another pair of front springs, either as standard springs or ride & handling versions. The spring charts are in the factory assembly manual.

Back in the mid 90's, the previous owner of the T-37 Coupe ordered replacement front & rear coil springs, as well as a "bargain" front suspension "kit" from PST in NJ. After unboxing PST's "kit" & my inspecting it, we sent all of their stuff back. PST's front coil springs were generic, the tie rods, ball joints, & idler arm were early Chinese junk. Both front coil springs were the same, neither was marked Left or Right. When we ordered the correct replacement front coil springs from CSS, they came in tagged left & right.

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

I ran 1971 Olds 442 FE2 springs on my 71; a bit firmer.

Olds was way ahead of the others as far as "A" body suspension.

Thanks--That's helpful. Learning more about these A bodys...

[79 Phoenix]

Thanks for the info about CSS. I will check them out. I don't want higher than stock ride height but would prefer a firmer ride...

[79 Phoenix]

On a manual drum brake car is there just a distribution block and not a proportioning valve?

[Scarebird]

correct.

[79 Phoenix]

Thanks!

[79 Phoenix]

I found this on top of the gas tank! It's still mostly readable. Anyone know how I can decipher the codes?

Also, On the rear end housing, these brake line clips are probably going to brake off when I try to use them again because they are sooo rusty... Is there a solution other than welding on new clips?

[johnta1]

Congrats on the buildsheet find!

I'm sure you'll get a decode of it, but a quick glance from me shows WR engine code which is 350 2bbl and 3.23 gear ratio.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Great luck on finding the Buildsheet !
You won't need to buy a PHS Invoice for the car.

Sold new to dealer
08-371 Weidner Pontiac Co. 760 Park Ave. Mansfield, OH 44906

You can decipher the codes with some good reading glasses.
In row #40 you have item #1
Row #43 you have items #2 and #4 (6)
Row #47 you have item #4
etc .....

Its upside down and gets blurry when I try to magnify it.

Axle code WF is 3.23 single-trac/peg-leg

Carb code JE will be stamped onto carb where the part number and date code are stamped - if it is still original carb.