[nh68gto]

Hey all.
69 GTO A/c car is all factoryish suspension components.
Definitely think going tubular rear control arms with rear bar. As for front curious if should do Summit Upper lower A arms (best budget) or keep factory and try do a nice shock all the way around. All existing has poly bushings. Not sure if I can do front A arms and shocks. Shocks are just cheap Monroe or something.
15” rally wheels.
Trying to keep this around $1500

Thank guys.

[locomotivebreath]

I have a similar set up on my 68 . I added tubular rears because the stockers were rather rusty and add a 7/8 GM bar . Kept the stock A arms and 1” bar with poly bushings and end links . It has 500 lbs springs nos Edelbrock IAS shocks & 15s . JLMounce gave me some specs for a more modern alignment . It rides and handles great ! That’s where I would spend the $$ , good shocks and a proper alignment . My springs were too short , 2” inch drop - don’t do that lol ) I corners flat , I’m confident on the back country roads . I really liked the IAS shocks , ran them on a few rides , too bad they are long discontinued .

[Verdoro 68]

The best bang I got with my setup was a bigger front sway bar and adding a rear sway bar. I ran KYB shocks for a long time and switched to Bilsteins. TBH, I think I liked the KYBs better. Recently I installed some adjustable Ridetechs which made a world of difference, but those will blow out 2/3 of your budget. Konis might be a nice compromise.

I don't feel like the UMI 1" lower springs dramatically changed the ride quality - at least not compared to the sway bars.

The Global West rear control arms with spherical joints were a nice upgrade that I notice over bumps and around corners, but I don't know that I'd prioritize them over the other stuff if you have to make some choices. I'm still running stock control arms up front with no plans to change.

[locomotivebreath]

Ken , what size bars did you end up with ? How do you like the UMI springs as far as the ride height ?

[Verdoro 68]

The front is a Summit 1-5/16". The rear is stock size - I think it's 7/8"?

I like the UMI springs. It's not so low that there's an issue getting in and out of places. I installed them when I went to 17" wheels so it didn't look like a 4x4. I started with 1" drop and ran those for a couple years until I installed a Moser rear. The spring perch geometry on the Moser housing is different so it actually raised the rear about 7/8" even with the drop springs. Now I've got kind of an oddball setup with the 1" drop in the front and 2" in the rear.

1" drop springs (with additional 1/2 coil cut out of the front springs)


Current setup w/the Moser - 1" drop in the front, 2" in the back.

[JLMounce]

I did the summit racing A body uppers and lowers on my wife's chevelle. They were absolute garbage. The bushings were loose, ball joints were terrible. They clanked and clattered as you went down the road and refused to hold an alignment.

If you go with the china copies of the Global West arms, you need to factor in purchasing good bushings and ball joints. At that point, you're not that far off from getting actual Global West stuff.

I would keep your factory control arms and change out the springs and shocks and add a .5" tall ball joint to the upper arm. Definitely do the global west rear control arms if there is budget for it.

[rohrt]

What are trying to improve with the suspension?

[nh68gto]

Great info. Much appreciated. Ken, car stance is great. Remember watching your build (I think lol).

I am wanting to stiffer her up. She is sloppy.

Thinking I the KYB front and rear. Up front sway bar to 1.25 and tubular rears and bar. Good deal buying both as package.

Not sure on stance if I should go the drop springs and how much to go. Buddy says 2”. Also Amazon has everything saved lot on shipping.

[nh68gto]

Only side shots I have