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#1
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More carpentry questions
Hi all,
I'm a real novice when it comes to carpentry, I'll admit. Attempting to repair a back porch we never use. Wood rots even in dry as a bone California. Anyway, you can see from the pic I need to repair the banister by replacing the 2x4 running horizontal underneath the top rail. The problem is everything is screwed together and these screws are a b***ch to get out. Every banister has two screws and there are 14 of them into this horizontal 2x4 support. That' 28 screws. Then there's 6 more into the main supports. I tried screwdrivers, and a drill. Also purchased an impact screwdriver on amazon but not sure its working right (cheap China crap) and not sure that would take these screws out either. I assume there's a relatively easy way to get these screws out? But I haven't found it. Thanks for any advice. As you can see, I've already stripped two of the screws (using the drill).
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#2
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Jeez, you got some work ahead of you there. The easy way is using an impact screw driver .. but you've tried that. First thing, and it's tedious .. get in there with a sharp pick and pick out all the paint and debri so the bit fits nice. If it bit fits in nicely they usually either come out, or break off.
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#3
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That's a bugger when the heads are all filled with years of paint and stuff.
Yes, you have to take something sharp and gouge out as much as you can. I use a long drywall screw. The fine ones not the general purpose ones. They're pointy as heck. Then, I take an older driver bit that I was thinking of discarding, one of the longer ones, and tap it onto the head of the screw. It kind of compresses what's left and defines the screwhead.. Next, I take the best, newest driver bit that I have, and try to extract the screw. If the screw breaks off, then I would try ripping the wood off if it's rotten and wrestle the screws off after. We use Robertson screws here. I guess that you guys call them square drive. |
#4
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Get behind the banisters with a Sawzall. Cut the screws.
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be a simple...kinda man. |
#5
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sadly it may be time for demolition. simply tearing it out and starting over on the whole section.
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1981 Trans Am project -YJ 400 stroked to 488 CID-74cc Eheads-10.95:1-Northwind Intake-Holley Terminator-TH400-Moser rear-Dougs Headers.... |
#6
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__________________
71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
#7
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Cutting Screws is the way to go...
...If you don't have a "Sawzall" any good reciprocating saw will work.
Use a fine-tooth metal blade to cut screws and then drive heads out from behind with a long tip awl or nail set. When putting it back together I recommend Square Drive Deck Screws. Cheers.
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#8
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Drill the screw heads out, pull or pry the 2x4 off then work on the screws with vise grips to unscrew them or break them off flush.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#9
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I was hoping their might be an easy-out type of solution with the screws. If I could just get something to bite in the screw heads, the drill should have the power to turn them, its just about getting the bite.
__________________
1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#10
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Maybe try getting a good screwdriver and tapping it with a hammer to break up the paint in the screw?
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#11
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You aren't going to get decent bite unless you dig out the deck coating first.
The square drive isn't completely SQUARE, it actually has a slight taper. The deeper you make the opening, the better. I've found spade bits work well here. Tough, sharp, kinda have a 'handle'. Rock 'em around, and lever out the corners. |
#12
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Retired carpenter checking in. If iI was contacted to repair that rail, it would be simpel. Remove and replace with new. Easier, quicker and a job you will be happy with when done. If some of the wood is that bad the rest isn't far behind.
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1969 Firebird 350 convertible, t-5, Carousel Red 2008 Solstice GXP 5speed manual, Sly 2008 Grand Prix, Ink Slate, Winter daily driver 2009 G8, Switchblade Silver, summer daily driver |
#13
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Chisel the rotten board alondside the screws and yank off the board. Then you can chuck the exposed screw in your drill and run it back out.
This works both from the front and the back. Chuck the exposed head in your drill and reverse it out. In the case of the baluster screws sticking out, chuck the threaded part in the drill and reverse drill it back out. Once loose you can go around to the other side and chuck the head in and fully remove it. Works best with an old reversible drill with a chuck key.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#14
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This but im not retired yet. You will be hard pressed to get those screws out. Even if you can get a bite with the driver they will most likely snap as soon as you put some torque to them. Theres a right way to do things and the other way. You are attempting the other way.
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#15
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Retired contractor. I would recommend removing old wood replacing with new. If money is tight right now. Brace banister to ground. Save money and use new. You may find out old wood is well old. Sometimes trying to fasten to old wood isnot strong . It is up but weak.
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#16
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Piece of cake if you follow my instructions in #13 ...
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#17
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Reciprocating saw is the best way, start cutting your old rotten wood that will be replaced and get it out of the way. Then use a long fine tooth metal cutting blade and cut between the two joined boards cutting the screw. Learned this from a contractor many years ago and have had much success doing it this way.
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#18
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Quote:
Use a composite deck railing that won’t rot. Don |
#19
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Thanks for all the comments guys. I was able to get out all 28 screws. Crazy but I bought another impact screwdriver on ebay and it did the trick. Although I did give myself two pinch/blood blisters on my hand in the process. For the stripped screws I just destroyed the wood with the claw on one hammer, pounding it with another. Once I had the wood destroyed I used vice grips to remove the screws. Not pretty but got it done.
I also pulled off one of the main vertical banister supports which was rotten at the top. The deck is definitely getting closer to the end of its life. California is nuts however. My next door neighbor got a quote of $10k to replace a similar deck, so I'm hoping that by replacing this rotten banister wood and the decking that maybe I can get 10 more years out of the deck since we don't get a lot of water here generally. Thanks again.
__________________
1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
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