#21  
Old 08-20-2020, 02:00 PM
PurelyGTO68 PurelyGTO68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gto4evr View Post
I agree, the pans look the same to me. the picture I posted from the catalog is from the top, and the picture of that original on the hood is from the bottom

is it possible Purely that you just have the pan mounted too far forward therefore requiring the cut? did the 3 holes I referred to line up with the hood insulation holes?

My friend should have his car at the cruise tonight for me to check. I'll get some pictures. Not sure where he got the pan from. it's made of metal but I don't know if there's more than one supplier of the repops. I don't think he got it from Ames or PP.
Funny you ask because the original placement was too far forward. I located it in the correct spot when I cut the bracing on the replacement hood. The straight edge along the cowl has some steps bent into the upper pan. Those steps nest perfectly with the contour of the hood and the two rear holes line up perfectly. The most forward hole at the peak of the pan also lines up with a predrilled hole in the hood.

Lastly, the food scoop stud nuts are accessible via access holes in the pan when properly located. The literature that came with the car at delivery suggested the owner remove the open scoops and reinstall the original closed scoops in inclement weather. So the access holes allow this without removing the upper pan. The lower pan would be removed and replaced with the chrome lid single snorkel air cleaner as well. I am sure nobody ever did this though.....they probably just didnt drive the car in bad weather.

The 69/70 set up is much more convenient for the driver to operate.

  #22  
Old 08-20-2020, 02:28 PM
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Just for interest, Dad's 69 original had the OEM ram air setup on it. When he switched over to a fiberglass stock appearing hood on his 69, he wanted the scoops functional again, so I built a custom cold air intake using the stock scoops.

It is actually more like the 68 setup as far as basic function goes, but I used 69 L88 parts. The air box had 2 protrusions that actually lined up with the scoops on the GTO hood, so I turned it around 180 degrees and molded that in. I set the depth to accept a 3" filter inside the hood. It comes down to seal against an L88 drop base with seal and screen. I also added a hole and hose at the back of the air box for water drainage. The only way for air to enter the engine is through the scoops, there is no changing it around for inclement weather. We've been caught in a couple downpours, not by choice. But even in rain so hard you could barely see to drive, it never introduced water to the carb and worked fine.
Another interesting piece of info, it seems to do a pretty good job introducing outside air at speed as well. Now with the Sniper Stealth installed I can monitor IAT's. It'll heat soak well over 120 degrees while stopped pumping gas, but as soon as you move a mile or 2 down the road the IAT's will come right down to outside ambient temp readings. It at least gives me the sense it's effective and working.
I actually like this setup (and the 68 version) better than the original 69 setup he used to run. It's much less complicated, and cleaner in appearance.
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  #23  
Old 08-20-2020, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by brians View Post
The pans are correct. Picture is a factory pan next to a reproduction.
The factory had the dealer cut the front hood bracing usually quick and rough.
(Had one original owner tell me that he was so pissed about the way they cut it, he tried to refuse the car unless they cleaned it up and repaint the bottom of the hood)
Does it have to - no.
However, without cutting it, the gasket will not sit flat all around and the pan will hit
the front bracing. You may have to trim the front section of the gasket.
Thanks Brian. That clears it all up for everyone.

I will make the cut as it's the better thing to do. I can cut it carefully and keep the cut out piece.

  #24  
Old 08-20-2020, 02:41 PM
PurelyGTO68 PurelyGTO68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brians View Post
The pans are correct. Picture is a factory pan next to a reproduction.

The factory had the dealer cut the front hood bracing usually quick and rough.
(Had one original owner tell me that he was so pissed about the way they cut it, he tried to refuse the car unless they cleaned it up and repaint the bottom of the hood)


Does it have to - no.
However, without cutting it, the gasket will not sit flat all around and the pan will hit
the front bracing. You may have to trim the front section of the gasket.

the hood cut picture is Boss’s of his old RAI. It still shows the outline of the pan and gasket.
That reproduction pan is correct.
The photo of the other reproduction pan posted earlier looks different.
The stair step UP rear edge, the installation helper "FINGERS" and the embossed portion should all be on the same side.

The picture of the reproduction pan in post #9 has the stair step up, the fingers up but the embossed portion is down. That would certainly make it pretty easy to install. Would look and function strange but no cutting required for sure.

  #25  
Old 08-20-2020, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
If the price is substantial. I haven't seen the prices in a long time.
Since you just need cold air induction for MPFI mainly , the fiberglass pans seem like a good option.
For a heads up on the hood scoops -
it used to be said that the metal repop scoops will only fit properly on a repop hood.
Not good fits to original hoods.
The fiberglass R/A scoops fit well with original hoods, but you have to have the 69-70 flapper assembly to mount those scoops.
**except maybe epoxy or attachment tape
Factory 68 R/A cars were shipped with "base equipment" breathers installed.
Owners were advised to swap back to the base equipment breathers during weather conditions.
So i guess a real savvy owner would keep a breather boxed up in the trunk for rainy days.
If you plug off the open scoops with a sponge or foam rubber inserts, without swapping lower pans - the 68 system has no way to get any air.
69-70 had provision for underhood air when scoops closed.
Thats part of why that system is so complex.
just heads-up info
Thanks for all the great info here. Since Brian has a used 68 setup he will sell me, I'll do that vs the fiberglass one.

I really did think about going for a correct RA setup but I just like the looks and simplicity of the '68 better. As far as getting caught in the rain, it seems like a couple of small holes drilled in the bottom of the car pan would help along with using an air filter like a K&N that doesn't get damaged if it gets a little wet.
Could even plug the holes and only pull the plugs when it appears rain is inevitable.

  #26  
Old 08-20-2020, 03:32 PM
PurelyGTO68 PurelyGTO68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
Thanks for all the great info here. Since Brian has a used 68 setup he will sell me, I'll do that vs the fiberglass one.

I really did think about going for a correct RA setup but I just like the looks and simplicity of the '68 better. As far as getting caught in the rain, it seems like a couple of small holes drilled in the bottom of the car pan would help along with using an air filter like a K&N that doesn't get damaged if it gets a little wet.
Could even plug the holes and only pull the plugs when it appears rain is inevitable.
The lower pan has drain holes already so you are good.

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Old 08-20-2020, 04:07 PM
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I'd have a generic lightweight air cleaner and a pair of closed scoops in a box, with the few needed tools inside of it.
Mr.Cool Kit for the Cool factor to impress the other cool kids.
Might would even use it too

Did anybody notice Greg has a Hemi BigBlock DOHC heater core/box ?
Engineering Car ?
DAMN !
D A M N

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Old 08-20-2020, 04:41 PM
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BVZ, I have you know my Great Grandaddy ordered that car special from John Z personally! He was holding me in his arms as we (Grandaddy, John Z. and me) watched it come down the line so I KNOW it's original.

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Old 08-20-2020, 04:55 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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D A M N !

And the beautiful turquoise color too.
whew
what a Car !

priceless story

  #30  
Old 08-20-2020, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68 View Post
The lower pan has drain holes already so you are good.
Thanks. Sounds like a filter like the K&N would be all I would need to do. Any rain that sucked through the filter would probably make the engine run better! Can't really see enough getting through to harm anything.

Since I'm planning to do a body-off restoration on the car, getting caught in the rain would be something I would try pretty hard to avoid. I might consider car shows in other towns up to 200 miles from me and there's always a possibility of an unexpected storm.

  #31  
Old 08-20-2020, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
Thanks. Sounds like a filter like the K&N would be all I would need to do. Any rain that sucked through the filter would probably make the engine run better! Can't really see enough getting through to harm anything.

Since I'm planning to do a body-off restoration on the car, getting caught in the rain would be something I would try pretty hard to avoid. I might consider car shows in other towns up to 200 miles from me and there's always a possibility of an unexpected storm.
I dont know if my car would make it to a car show 200 miles away. Those 4.33 gears out back sure like consuming fuel. I just do short drives right now and still have to fill up frequently. 100 octane isn't that easy to get out here either. I envy those of you that can actually take your cars out cruising.

  #32  
Old 08-23-2020, 02:00 AM
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Here is another thread that might help you, this is a nice step by step instructional to locate and outline the metal that needs to be removed.

Keep in mind 'PurelyGTO68' used a new hood that may not have had the hood insulation retainer holes that 'gto4evr' mentions in this thread to line up the pan.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=809815


Frank

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  #33  
Old 08-24-2020, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4zpeed View Post
Here is another thread that might help you, this is a nice step by step instructional to locate and outline the metal that needs to be removed.
Keep in mind 'PurelyGTO68' used a new hood that may not have had the hood insulation retainer holes that 'gto4evr' mentions in this thread to line up the pan.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=809815
Frank
Yes it does help and thank you for posting. I had done a lot of searching but had not come up with that one.

  #34  
Old 08-24-2020, 02:39 PM
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A little rain down the intake will just clean the carbon out....Seriously, I can remember some of the older guys pouring a small coke bottle of water down the intake for that very purpose. They'd rev it up as they dribbled the entire contents down the carb. Black soot would pour out of the exhaust. However, I will confess that I've never done it myself.
I did have a '74 TA a few years back with the scoop open and I drove it in all kinds of weather. Never had an issue with running it in rain.

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  #35  
Old 08-24-2020, 04:00 PM
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Yeah I've never had a problem with that. I've driven my 70 RA Formula on cross country trips and heavy down pours at 70 mph. Those scoops are front and center and I have the RA open 100% of the time and it's never once even hiccupped or shown any evidence of rain making it that far.

So I figured dad's that I pictured earlier would be just fine, and it was.

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Old 08-24-2020, 07:46 PM
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Corporate was probably erring on the side of caution... and warranty claims.

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  #37  
Old 08-24-2020, 10:05 PM
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On my 68 convertible I have open scoops and a little water getting into the pans is the least of my worries. I few years back I went on the Hot Rod Power Tour and got caught in some sever weather with torrential downpours and nearby tornados. I was more worried about the 2 inches of water that accumilated in my floor boards than a little dribble that might have went down the carburator.

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Old 10-12-2020, 07:54 AM
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I acquired a '68 RA setup from Brians. Fantastic deal and condition. Thanks Brian!



Better yet, I acquired the car!







Time for me to start a build thread for it!

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Old 10-12-2020, 10:30 PM
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Good for you. Brian is a great guy to deal with.

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  #40  
Old 07-14-2023, 05:52 PM
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So after all this time, I'm finally ready to put the pan on the underside of my hood.
Question on the upper seal.
Do I glue it onto the pan in this position?



That photo is one that brains posted about 8 years ago and I copied it here.
What kind of glue should I use and should I glue it to the pan all the way around or just in spots.

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