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#1
09-11-2002, 12:40 PM
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Freinds, If you have ever seen these items at your local parts store and think to yourself thats an easy fix instead of pulling the heatercore out of your 1973 Grandam, don't do it.
My heater core failed so I used these bypass caps on the water pump and the block. I took a 5-mile ride to the local car cruise and on the way back the cap on the block failed and blew a hole right out the top. What a mess, glycol everywhere. Luckily I got home within 30seconds of it blowing but it emptied the entire cooling system. Now I have a lot of cleaning to do. They say on the package they are for high temp and high pressure, not so. 
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#2
09-11-2002, 12:40 PM
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Freinds, If you have ever seen these items at your local parts store and think to yourself thats an easy fix instead of pulling the heatercore out of your 1973 Grandam, don't do it.
My heater core failed so I used these bypass caps on the water pump and the block. I took a 5-mile ride to the local car cruise and on the way back the cap on the block failed and blew a hole right out the top. What a mess, glycol everywhere. Luckily I got home within 30seconds of it blowing but it emptied the entire cooling system. Now I have a lot of cleaning to do. They say on the package they are for high temp and high pressure, not so.
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#3
09-12-2002, 12:37 PM
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I'll second that,,,,,,I was goin about 110 mph,WOT when the plug blew on the back of the pass side head. Almost wet my pants when I saw this huge white cloud in the rear view mirror.
Sprayed coolant into the distributor. Got the leak plugged on the side of the road.Put water in it and made it almost home before the condensation under the distributor cap shut me down. Don't use these plugs 
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1979 T/A, 4 speed, 4 wheel disc,455 HO. |
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#4
09-12-2002, 09:54 PM
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Most all "help" stuff is garbage. Not only that but the stuff is usually expensive too. I got a couple packs of door panel push in clips for my 85 cutlass and they all broke instantly just trying to twist them into the slots in the panels. I also got the a frame nuts before for mounting the lower shock bolts, the threads were tight and when the bolts grabbed about a quarter of the way in, the whole nut started turning inside of it, so I had to cut them off, couldnt get the bolts back out again! "help" is just the opposite, should say "S#IT"
 [ September 12, 2002, 09:57 PM: Message edited by: 428GTO70 ]
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 1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi. Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun! |
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#5
09-12-2002, 10:56 PM
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A few years back H-O Racing sold the block off caps. They called them heater block off caps, H-O part # HW-54. They were the good ones and would last for years, made of real rubber. I don't know where Ken got them but they never failed. I guess the best way is to remove the heater nipple from the right head and pound in a 1-13/64" soft plug. On the timing cover i tap the nipple with a 3/8 NPT tap, then screw in a 3/8 pipe plug with sealer. Don't over do it on the pipe plug, just snug it down or you will crack the nipple. I have a couple timing covers that i have done this to and it works great. http://www.hoenterprises.com
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"Three may keep a secret, if two are dead" ~ Benjamin Franklin ~ |
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