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Old 10-03-2007, 02:30 AM
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Default next step. body work.

ok so my fenders are off the car and so is my hood obviously, im going to do some body work on all 3 sections,


i remember reading once that if a hood needs bodywork one needs to buy another hood, cause the bondo wont stick with all the heat???? anyone know anything about that?

also on both fenders, there was rust building underneath the metal (that chrome bar that 67 firebirds have that runs from fender to quarter panel) well the rust was so bad that it made holes on the bottom corners of the fenders , they are about the size of a .................wow i dont know what to compare it to. say about a 3" square. is there a way to bondo that hole or do i need some welding to be done?


what is a good type of bondo/filler, iim currently using the BONDO type is that good stuff?

aslo where can i find filler paint?

thanks Oz

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  #2  
Old 10-03-2007, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *67firebird*
what is a good type of bondo/filler, iim currently using the BONDO type is that good stuff?

aslo where can i find filler paint?

thanks Oz
I dont like the Bondo brand filler.........not really a good filler. Evercoat products are very good. Rage Gold, Rage Extreme. Z-Grip is good too...also made by Evercoat.
When you say "filler paint" Im not sure exactly what you are wanting. Are you talking about sprayable fillers?

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  #3  
Old 10-03-2007, 09:31 AM
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filler paint is the paint used to put on top of filler, it "fills" in the parts where the filler transitions onto the metal where theres a few scratches on the filler, well it fills it in.

you have never heard of it? its in a lot of magazine articles, speciallly the hotrod magz and freiburgers projects

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  #4  
Old 10-03-2007, 09:51 AM
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Colin, did you ever do that Roll on paint project?

just asking cause im going to do it. think im going to do it with the body parts off the car also. then ill tape up the corners and put them on the car.

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  #5  
Old 10-03-2007, 09:53 AM
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Use a high build primer that's the same brand as the paint you are planning on using. A guide coat will become your best friend when it comes to getting your panels flat.

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Old 10-03-2007, 10:12 AM
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never heard of that one, is it like a filler primer? sounds like its some thick primer????

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62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
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CC HR custom grind
  #7  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:24 AM
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Check out this web site:
http://www.performancecoatings.dupon...9031_3240S.pdf
Other paint companies offer high build primers also. Yes, it's a filler primer. It's easy to sand.

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Old 10-03-2007, 06:49 PM
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No paint that I know of fills. The term you're looking for is high build primer or "2K" primer as most call it.
You shouldn't fill any rust holes with Bondo or any kind of filler so I'd say "Yes", you need some welding done. Those lower portions of the fender can be bought as patch panels. If the rockers are rusted as well, you're going to be into the welder big time.
As for what type of filler,Rage Gold is great but the Rage Extreme is excellent filler. It sands beautifully and leaves very few pinholes to fix. Actually, practically none. Sands easier than Bondo and flows down into the low spots almost like a thick molasses.

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  #9  
Old 10-03-2007, 10:08 PM
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A good site for advice is autobodystore.com. A lot of professionals on that site. I agree with the comments about the evercoat products. Rage Gold and Extreme (while not cheap) are really good products. Junk filler will take much more time! I do not recommend applying bondo over rust holes-in most cases it will come back (in short order) Cut out the rust and weld in new metal.

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  #10  
Old 10-03-2007, 10:48 PM
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what about filling in the screw holes? im taking of the chrome bar at the bottom and its got screw holes all along the bottom. do i have to put some weld in there?

also as far as the rust hole i have, do i have to use a hole new patch panel or could i get a piece of metal from the local metal supply store? if so hoe thick?

as far as the original bondo that was laid before, can i lay the Rage extreme over it? please say yes and its ok..... thanks guys. OZ

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ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:04 PM
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where do i get rage extreme from? auto parts store?

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463 Stroker Kit.
ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
  #12  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:37 PM
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Find your local body shop supply store. They are the guys that sell to the pros. If you want to do it right, that's where you go for supplies AND advice.
I get scrap metal from other cars if it's something I plan to form myself.
For tricky to duplicate areas, I get the patch panel (If it's available.)
For instance that lower dogleg on the front fender you mentioned is sold by PY and ames, preformed with the backing brace already welded in place.
Usually, the rust that is visible from the outside of the car is the tip of the iceberg...so for that area, it's generally replaced entirely.
That patch panel is, as I recall, about $80 with the brace or less for the cheap outer skin only.

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  #13  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:38 PM
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heres the filler primer.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=shw-dap1698

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ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
  #14  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:41 PM
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You really don't want to use rattle can stuff if you can help it. If you can get a compressor, you want to use a two part primer. You'll get much better filling properties and it'll be a lot more durable.
If you can't get a compressor, maybe look into the roll on stuff you mentioned. I have no experience with it.

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  #15  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:42 PM
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DAMN THATS a lot for a panel cant i just put a 4 inch by 4 inch patch and get it welded in place???

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463 Stroker Kit.
ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
  #16  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:44 PM
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thinning out the primer? wont that defeat its purpose? i really dont want to prime the hole car because im going to roll that rust o leum paint on it and it doesnt neccesarly need it, i just want the primer so that i can make the bondo "dissapear" and i wont have to roll over it as much

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ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
  #17  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:50 PM
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yea i know like im staring to sound like some sort of cheap hick trailer boy, but i just want to get the body as straight as I can get it and then do the satin black over and not have to worry about my car looking completely embarrassing with primer and bondo being visible though the primer.

this morning on my way to work i saw a young guy about 20-22, driving one of those honda hatch backs.....it was Spray painted white. and look like SHIZZZ. and i told my self, well at least you cant see the rust on it and it doesnt look like a car with a bunch of patches of different color. even though u can see how badly painted it was, with glossy spots here and there and dull spots here and there. decent ride and something u can joke around about.

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463 Stroker Kit.
ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
  #18  
Old 10-04-2007, 12:07 AM
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Yeah, you could get a 4" by 4" piece of metal and weld it in if the rust is about 1" by 1". If you've got a 4" rust hole in the lower panel, the rust that's not showing through yet is going to be at least 2" beyond that all around and the inner brace is also going to be rusty. It's also probably full of leaves and dirt. That's usually what causes the rust. You really can't weld to that so you might want to glue it in place.
I don't like doing that kind of stuff but it'll look somewhat better and may last you up to a year or so.

You misunderstood about the primer. I never said anything about thinning the primer. The two part primer is much thicker than the spraybomb primer.

As for making the filler disappear, if you're talking about making the edges of the filled spot disappear, you need to do that with sand paper on a block. Get it as absolutey thin as possible with the sanding block, then prime. I'd use sealing primer first to at least help keep moisture out of the bondo for while, then the sandable primer on top of that.

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  #19  
Old 10-04-2007, 02:50 AM
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I will agree with the other posts on filling holes. Patch and/or weld up any holes before you fill. If you dont then it will come back to bite you later. Body filler doesnt like moisture.........if there is a way for moisture to get in then the integrity of the filler will be compromised.
As for the roll on paint..........I have an old fender that I was going to try it on just to see how it would turn out. I dont plan to actually paint my car that way at this point. I was just curious to see how it would turn out. Been super busy lately with work and trying to get some body work done on the Firebird so I havent fooled around with the roll on stuff yet.

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"It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather we should thank God that such men lived."- General George Patton
"Perpetual peace is a futile dream."-General George Patton
"I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them."-Thomas Jefferson
"Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security deserves neither and will loose both."-Benjamin Franklin
  #20  
Old 10-11-2007, 02:52 PM
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i bought some z grip evercoat, I went to a local body shop cause no auto shop has it and they cant order Evercoat, so he had a 3/4 gallon of Evercoat Z-Grip and sold it to me for $20 not bad considering its not easy to find.

next question is where do i find the panels for the fenders cant find them on ebay or google. thanks. Oz

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463 Stroker Kit.
ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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