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Old 02-16-2020, 12:14 PM
panhead59 panhead59 is offline
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Default Clutch recommend

Anybody know of a good clutch for a 66 gto ? 455 ci. Under 500hp. Best clutch for the $ ? Just looking for recommendations. Doing a gear vendors overdrive install and am thinking i should go ahead with new clutch now to avoid having to tear back apart later. Thoughts ?

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Old 02-16-2020, 10:57 PM
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I have had very good luck with zoom clutches. I had one in my 64 GTO that got down right abused when I was 20. I have also used them in my chevy truck to haul firewood and stuff and it never slipped even fully loaded

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Old 02-16-2020, 11:23 PM
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I have driven a handful of cars with different clutches all between 350-500hp. To me I really liked both the Centerforce and the McCleod clutches. Personally iliked the McCleod clutch feel more than the Centerforce and that’s what I am going with for my current engine build.

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Old 02-16-2020, 11:50 PM
danpaul danpaul is offline
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I never liked my Centerforce. Replaced it with a Luk and it has held up great so far. Half the price of the Centerforce.

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Old 02-17-2020, 02:11 AM
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1969400HO 1969400HO is offline
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Looked at the kit as advertised online.
I have an M20 in the 1969 400HO.
The bushing seems to be like its a hit or mis piece from the reading that is a bit un-certain which size / type is there, known only by remove and measure.
Kit looked like had two different ones, is this true or a bad pic - misleading.
Thx

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Old 02-17-2020, 05:06 AM
crustysarge crustysarge is offline
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My last install behind my 455 stroker is a Mcleod Super Street Pro and I like it a lot. Not too stiff and holds the beast. P/N 75221. I shopped around and found Autozone has it for same price as Summit BUT AZ frequently has 20% off on order so I got for a great price. It is $240 right now if you use the discount code. Be surprised what you can find at AZ sometimes and get a good deal.

Not sure what spline trans you have so double check, this is for 26 spline.

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain-...archText=75221

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Old 02-17-2020, 06:28 AM
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I second the Luk recommendation. I used to work for an ACDelco warehouse distributor and was able to buy an ACD (manufactured by Luk) at cost when I put my 462 in 2013. Like you, figured a new clutch at the time of the engine replacement was a good idea while everything was apart.

Best clutch I've ever had in my GTO which I've been driving since 1994.

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Old 02-17-2020, 08:57 AM
danpaul danpaul is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danpaul View Post
I never liked my Centerforce. Replaced it with a Luk and it has held up great so far. Half the price of the Centerforce.
I will also give you a screaming deal on my Centerforce. It has about 1500 miles on it.

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Old 02-17-2020, 09:03 AM
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Summit has a zoom one for 179. I will be trying it first

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Old 02-17-2020, 09:35 AM
panhead59 panhead59 is offline
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My second car was a 66 gto, 4 spd, 389- 3 2's. Bought it for $450 in 1973-74. I was 16 yrs. Old. We used to go to the chevy dealer and get the clutch for a Z28 camaro ! Hard pedal but you couldn't hurt 'em !!!!! Tks. For all replies.

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Champ View Post
I second the Luk recommendation. I used to work for an ACDelco warehouse distributor and was able to buy an ACD (manufactured by Luk) at cost when I put my 462 in 2013. Like you, figured a new clutch at the time of the engine replacement was a good idea while everything was apart.

Best clutch I've ever had in my GTO which I've been driving since 1994.
I have a aluminum flywheel, 11" Pressire Plate and Luk Disc and very happy with it so far.
So now you have at least 3 who like the LUK stuff vs the Centerforce stuff. Borg and Beck before that.

Tom V.

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969400HO View Post
Looked at the kit as advertised online.
I have an M20 in the 1969 400HO.
The bushing seems to be like its a hit or mis piece from the reading that is a bit un-certain which size / type is there, known only by remove and measure.
Kit looked like had two different ones, is this true or a bad pic - misleading.
Thx
The last two clutch kits I've bought came with both bushings. one came with a bushing and a bearing.
The smaller bushing can be turned down to fit the crank if the crank has not been machined for manual trans.
the larger bushing or bearing fits in the crank where it should if the crank is for manual trans.
I bought both of my kits from autozone, 120 bucks I think.
just 10" Sachs. nothing special but they've held up well and I've used them with a M21 and 3.08 gears which is quite a mismatch but didn't know any better at the time.

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:35 AM
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I have used both Zoom and Centerforce. The Centerforce has been in since the mid 90's . the Zoom worked good with the 400 "spare engine.

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:37 AM
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I have used both Zoom and Centerforce. The Centerforce has been in use since the mid 90's , The Zoom worked fine with my spare motor.

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1979 Trans Am WS-6 .030 455 zero decked
flat pistons
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041 cam with Rhoads lifters 1.65 rockers
RPM rods
800 Cliffs Q Jet on Holley Street Dominator
ST-10 4 speed (3.42 first)
w 2.73 rear gear

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:58 AM
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Formulajones Formulajones is offline
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I used Ram a lot when I was running UMTR and liked the pedal feel. Got a lot of street miles out of them without complaints.

I used Spec in the 4th gen Camaros for years and always liked that clutch setup, no complaints from them.

2 daily driver stick cars right now. I went with Centerforce II on one of them for my wife. Very nice pedal feel and after 30,000 miles it drives perfectly, no chatter, no issues, wife is happy with very easy clutch engagement and you don't need tree trunk legs to work it.

The other car I tried a McLeod in. So far not all that happy. The pedal feel is quite a bit stiffer. It's just the mild street strip application good to 450 hp but it'll make your leg tired if you hold it at a light for a while. Also after just 1600 miles chatter is starting to set in. With a 2.95 first gear and 3.27 rear gear out back giving an effective ratio of 9.64 you'd think that would be fine, especially in a 3100 lbs. car. But it's not enough to make the McLeod clutch happy. I'll be stepping up the rear gear in this one to help the effective ratio, and if that doesn't settle the clutch down I'll be swapping that out next. Probably go straight to the Centerforce or Ram again.

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Old 02-17-2020, 11:17 AM
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Here's a fourth vote for LUK. Installed them in my '72, '73 and '78 with great success.

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Old 02-23-2020, 07:29 AM
panhead59 panhead59 is offline
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I am not finding anything other than stock replacement quality for Luk clutches. I need a 10 spline, 10 1/2 " clutch that can handle 500 or so hp. Anybody know part # or where to look ? Tks.

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Old 02-23-2020, 10:06 AM
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Yeah Luk is more of a stock type manufacture and what a lot of the parts stores around here carry. Fine if you want stock stuff and cheap $150-$200. Probably 95% of the guys here don't even race their cars and if they do it's just a little fun on street tires so the stock stuff works fine for them.

For anyone serious about clutch performance, sticky tires, and even just 1 or 2 trips to the track a year, I like using Centerforce, Ram, and Spec. They have all had really nice daily drive type pedal feel on their diaphragm clutches yet they've held everything I've thrown at them, down into the 11 second zone and sticky tires. But you're going to pay $500+ for a kit.

I recently tried a McLeod and not 100% thrilled with it. Diaphragm 10.5" street strip for 450-ish hp and it feels like a truck clutch. Not to mention not even 2,000 miles on it and chatter is setting in, even with a somewhat decent effective 1st gear ratio.

If it helps any, we have and daily drive a 69 Z/28, and the only thing special about those clutches is that they are small and as a result somewhat lighter weight. 10.4" with a small and lighter 153 tooth flywheel. Same setup GM also used on the L88 corvette back in the day.

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Old 02-23-2020, 11:18 AM
PontiacJim1959 PontiacJim1959 is offline
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There are many options and as seen, many recommendations. You can also get a variety of clutch disc materials. Reading about those experiencing "chatter" could be due to the clutch material selected or supplied with the pressure plate - so this is important. I used a carbon fiber disc and it would chatter - but was told it will. However, the wear/abuse factor was better.

The clutch discs have differing designs. Some are the typical/conventional fully round disc while others use the paddle style. I have not used the paddle style, only the conventional discs feeling more surface area grip better and the paddle type my require a stronger pressure plate (pedal force) to clamp it.

Clutch discs can be had with a "solid hub" or "sprung hub." For a street application you want a sprung hub.

Clutch discs can be had with a "marcel spring" or not. You want the marcel spring.

Both of these above absorb the shock of the clutch when let out, especially when dumped.

You want a diaphragm style pressure plate that will provide a lighter pedal effort. The 3-finger Long and Borg & Beck pressure plates provied big clamping forces, but take 2 left legs to push in. They won't slip with big HP and wide tires, but you will not be happy if you get stuck in traffic or that long line going into a car show.

The diaphragm pressure plates have either a raised or flat finger set-up. Either will work just fine. The problem here is the throw-out bearing length. If the kit is not specific to a Pontiac, you may receive the wrong throw-out bearing. There is typically a long and short, there is also a mid length not to often used. I used a McLeod set-up in my '68 Lemans, and was sent the wrong length throw-out bearing - I believe it was for a Chevy set-up as the clutch fork is different. Of course I put the transmission in and the pedal went near the floor, so the clutch would not release. Not a new experience as I learned this in my youth, but assumed McLeod had included the correct throw-out bearing. Had to pull the trans and purchase the correct length throw out bearing. Enclosed a photo for illustration.

The type of pressure plate style also dictates what the mating surface of the throw-out bearing will be. Some have a flat mating surface while others will have a more rounded surface and I believe are called "self aligning." So should you have to get a throw-out bearing because your kit sent the wrong one, make sure your replacement has the matching face for the diaphragm selected.

The Pontiac uses a 10.5" set-up, but if you get an aftermarket steel flywheel (better choice over the 50 year old cast flywheel) it will have a dual bolt pattern, 10.5" and 11". Again, more clutch disc surface area, the better the grip. So the 11" set-up is the better option. I have the aftermarket flywheel and am using a 12" set-up by McLeod. It bolts up to the 11" bolt pattern, but provides more surface/gripping area. I have not installed/used it as of yet, but it was a recommendation from a friend who had a blown big block chevy on alcohol in his street car. He said it had an easy pedal effort and never had any slipping out of it. So I went with the same set-up.

So do some research versus taking opinions and then decide what you may want using the opinions to supplement your potential choice for a clutch set-up.
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Old 02-23-2020, 11:28 AM
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I'm helping a freind replace the clutch in his 78, he got a stock replacement thru Napa which is actually a Luk clutch kit. Actually says Luk right on the box, the one thing neither of us liked about that kit is it comes with a PLASTIC throw out bearing.
He sourced a metal one separately.

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