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  #21  
Old 03-19-2017, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
The speedo may not be working because the speedo gear housing is wrong for the 3.73 gear. There were at least two "housings" used, one for the 3.08 and lower numerical gears, and one for the higher number 3.42, etc gears. You may have the 3.08 housing with the wrong plastic gear in it so it is not meshing properly.

I am in the process of converting from 3.42s to 3.08s and had to buy the 3.08 housing to replace the 3.42 collar i had previously installed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-880022
Thanks for the link Steve - I'll give that a try.

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Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
That's crazy about the kick down switch! When I had to replace the heater core on my 19,000 mile survivor 73 SD Formula, I found the same thing: the kick down harness was not connected to the switch and the wires were tucked and wrapped up in the upper dash. I was the first one to ever get into the under dash area and it appeared to have been that way since 1973.
Did your kick-down work that way? Mines seems to, but it shouldn't...correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron65 View Post
I notice that the plastic trim underneath your grille and over your bumper is black. Mine is too, but in most pictures of 1974s, it's body color. I always thought that the previous owner painted it black, but now I wonder if some came that way.

Mine's an early build (October '73); is yours?
Yeah, like Steve said, they are supposed to be body color. It was on my original 74, so we'll paint this one. This car was December '73 build. Shipped on 12/21 I believe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Held for Ransom View Post
Keep your GM decal is real and correct. I can't for sure say the same for your A/C compressor. Can you read all the numbers in the CODE NO. box? I think that MODEL NO. was earlier.
I will use some paper and a pencil to stencil those numbers Mike. I can't make the last couple out even when I zoom in on my original photo file.

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Originally Posted by pontiacstogo View Post
I bought a NOS when I first picked up my 74 T/A and stored it way. Many years later when I finally got to the painting stage I opened the box and it virtually fell apart in my hands

What's with the plugs in the door - was the car rustproofed sometime in it's past?
Yep, I believe that's what they were for. You can see them on the rocker panel too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjhconst View Post
Hello BJ Its great to see the progress you are doing with the car it truly found its new home. And by the way I still have that cheesy steering wheel cover that I will gladly send you.
Pat
Thanks Pat - having a lot of fun with it. You can keep the steering wheel cover! I think Tom put that on...he's from Wisconsin you know! I've been speaking with him and he is glad to hear the car finally made it to the South!

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Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob View Post
BJ - I gave Dave the message and he said back at you. Looks like the paint is cleaning up great. Nice shop/workspace. I have a couple extra elbows and will send one your way if you PM you shipping info. Conversely, their are a number for sale on eBay if you search "Firebird air cleaner elbow".
Thanks Bob - I'll shoot you a PM.

BJ

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  #22  
Old 03-20-2017, 12:53 PM
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Got a question on the Trim Tag Paint Codes. Mine shows W for Fire Coral Bronze. Was there an associated number code that MPR can use to research the original paint mix?

BJ

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  #23  
Old 03-20-2017, 01:00 PM
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Default 74 Formula

BJ there is a paint code number on the bottom of the reproduction window sticker that came with the car if that helps.
Pat

  #24  
Old 03-20-2017, 01:47 PM
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Default 74 Formula

As I recall the numbers were 66 and another number that came up was 2653

  #25  
Old 03-20-2017, 02:02 PM
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Correct. That is the PPG number..



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  #26  
Old 03-20-2017, 04:18 PM
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Great Info guys, thanks much!

BJ

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  #27  
Old 03-20-2017, 04:28 PM
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Next Question: Were the original roof drip moldings made of plastic or steel? Any recommendations on best source?

Thanks,
BJ

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  #28  
Old 03-20-2017, 04:46 PM
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They were plastic AFAIK..

NOS:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Fireb...tX~7a~&vxp=mtr

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  #29  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:10 PM
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Thanks - I'm seeing prices all over the board. NOS Plastic ones on eBay for $125, and Stainless Steel ones from Year One for $249.99.

BJ

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  #30  
Old 03-20-2017, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77 Canamman View Post
I didn't think the plastic drip rail mouldings came along until later, like 1976 or 1977? I can't recall ever seeing an older second gen with the plastic drip rail mouldings. Even then, some of the later cars still had metal.

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  #31  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:08 PM
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If given the choice, the metal ones would be used in a New York minute..

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  #32  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:17 PM
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My 75 has the cheesy plastic ones. I would love to swap to the stainless set. They are much nicer, permanently attach to the car, and don't slide off the car when they lose their tension over time.

  #33  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:45 PM
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Look what showed up in the mailbox today!



BJ

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  #34  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:04 PM
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I think I'll go with the stainless steel roof drip moldings to match all the other stainless trim on the car. IIRC mine had stainless steel.

Going to the paint store with MPR to start the paint match process tomorrow, so he is confident before beginning any repairs. Getting more excited every day!

Oh, yeah, my vinyl stripes arrived today from Phoenix Graphics. They look great and I can't wait to get them on the car. I have found several photos online showing 74 Formulas with both the vinyl stripes and the body side moldings. I think they look fine and plan to keep the BSM on the car.

While searching for images on Google - found this cool poster that a former owner of this car had made!



BJ

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  #35  
Old 03-21-2017, 01:12 PM
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Hi BJ, Did you get the dealer shipping record with the car?
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  #36  
Old 03-21-2017, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pggto View Post
Hi BJ, Did you get the dealer shipping record with the car?

Paul,
Yes, I did; thanks for posting it. This is such a well-documented car.

BJ

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  #37  
Old 03-21-2017, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERULD View Post
I think I'll go with the stainless steel roof drip moldings to match all the other stainless trim on the car. IIRC mine had stainless steel.

Going to the paint store with MPR to start the paint match process tomorrow, so he is confident before beginning any repairs. Getting more excited every day!

Oh, yeah, my vinyl stripes arrived today from Phoenix Graphics. They look great and I can't wait to get them on the car. I have found several photos online showing 74 Formulas with both the vinyl stripes and the body side moldings. I think they look fine and plan to keep the BSM on the car.

While searching for images on Google - found this cool poster that a former owner of this car had made!



BJ
BJ,
I still have those Wisconsin collector plates you see in the pic.
Also the Rally Wheels that came off the car had date codes in Oct. & Nov. of 73. I know you asked about it.

  #38  
Old 03-23-2017, 05:35 PM
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Jim, thanks for the date codes. I'd love to have those old plates if you don't mind parting with them. Would look cool to display with the car at a car show.

BJ

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  #39  
Old 03-23-2017, 05:45 PM
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Got the hood scoop wire mesh inserts painted today.





Also got a test panel for the second pass at matching the paint done. I think we have a good match!





The spot on the driver side front fender turns out to be rust! Looks like we'll be cutting that out and patching. That means blending color across the hood and top of the fender, then clearing. We have to patch the passenger front fender after removing the antenna, so we'll try to keep it the same on that side. We won't do any color on the sides of the car except down on the bottoms of the fenders, the rockers and the quarters.



What was the purpose of this plastic piece at the base corners of the windshield?



It is missing on the driver side but you can see the screw that held it. Are these available from anyone?



BJ

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  #40  
Old 03-23-2017, 06:52 PM
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They were designed to deflect water from the edge of the windshield's bottom seam. The originals were a flimsy, easily broken, piece of black plastic. They do make a repro but it is even poorer quality than the original piece.

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