[77 Canamman]

NOS Left 3062232:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-1981-Fi...1Yv-Wu&vxp=mtr

right side used 3062231:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1981-FI...BYKyf~&vxp=mtr

Pair used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-WINDSHI...RYLQUd&vxp=mtr

used right:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-WINDSHI...JYxE1b&vxp=mtr

[OVERULD]

Thanks Canamman! I just ordered the NOS Left one and the used right one (last one you posted). Appreciate the links!

BJ

[Jerry H.]

Wish I had seen this thread earlier BJ. Love your new project; I owned a 73 Grand Am the same color combo in 74. I wish I had caught you before you did any sanding or cutting of the paint. There is a way to bring back the older single stage paints WITHOUT any abrasive materials, compounds, polishes, buffing, etc. We're using it on 36k mile original paint 79 Camaro right now.

I don't know where I would chance taking off the body side moldings. You could very well end up painting 80% of the entire car this way. Good luck and eagerly following.

[OVERULD]

Thanks Jerry! Would love to hear your process for restoring the older single stage paints. We did that test spot on the top of the driver side fender because we knew we had to do a rust repair there. We test polished a couple places with 3M #1 and #2 compound, followed by some glazing with wax and got some good results. What process are you using on that 79 Camaro?

BJ

[OVERULD]

Some more progress pictures.

MPR got the hood removed and the inner fenders out, so now we have some more access to the engine compartment for detailing.







The inner fenders look good,





What was this - maybe some undercoating overspray?



Here are some photos of various places in the engine compartment. We have some oxidation and surface rust - looks like some salt exposure from the Utah and Wisconsin roads over its lifetime, but overall, the subframe and core support look to be in good condition. I plan to use a Steam Jenny pressure washer to clean the underside and engine compartment, then use sponge brushes to touch up paint as and where needed. We'll replace some hoses and vacuum tubes, and do some general cleaning while we have good access.









Found the wire that used to run the big Tach on the steering column seen in some of the older photos of the car.



What is this - a filter in the vacuum line? Why does it go to such a small diameter? Looks like it disappears into the firewall. Any idea what this goes to?



Got a much better photo of the Cowl Tag. Notice the light stamping of the paint codes. You can barely see what looks like two "66" stampings for upper and lower color. Pretty sure that 66 was the correct color stamp for Fire Coral Bronze according to the paint chart posted earlier. Was it common for the Norwood plant cars to have this faint stamping or is mine an exception?



We've got some parts showing up now! Vinyl Stripes from Phoenix Graphics, Breather Elbow from Bob (Thanks again Bob!), new battery tray, new Stainless Drip Rail Molding, New front Bird emblem, cold beer.







Some hardware and badging waiting clean-up







That pesky antenna is gone now! New windshield with built in antenna on the way!



BJ

[OVERULD]

I'll need some help with what color and finish on engine compartment paints for things like the inner fenders, master cylinder, core support, brackets, air breather, engine block, etc. Anyone have a good list?.

Also, we found the wiring connector for the transmission kick-down switch all nice and bundled up behind the dash. We've tested the switch and after several manual cycles, we were able to see it operating properly on a volt/ohm meter. We hooked up the wiring, and did a driving test (before we removed all the parts in the post above!) and did not feel it kicking down. So - what's next in the troubleshooting?

Finally - how do you remove the dash on this generation F-body? I've had the dash out of my old GTOs a few times, but never done so on a Firebird, so looking for some help there so I can get the radio out for testing/reconditioning, and so I can replace some bulbs in in the instruments and gauge cluster.

Thanks,
BJ

[74 SD455 Formula]

I see you took the Formula 455 badges off the Fenders . I have a set of GM NOS ones for a 72 -74 Formula if you are interested. I'm not going to be restoreing my car at anytime. Also whatta give me for the License Plate's. I wish I had some 74 Indiana plates to sell,but dont. I do have a set of NOS 74 Minnesota plates for mine as thats where it was from.Let me know. I may have Rally Wheels.The problem is the shipping cost.Thats why I never replied to you before.

[pontiacstogo]

Originally Posted by OVERULD

Finally - how do you remove the dash on this generation F-body? I've had the dash out of my old GTOs a few times, but never done so on a Firebird, so looking for some help there so I can get the radio out for testing/reconditioning, and so I can replace some bulbs in in the instruments and gauge cluster.

Below the steering column is black cover panel that must be removed first - it is retained by two plastic locking screws accessed from directly below the panel. Once that's removed there are two long bolt headed screws holding the dash cover panel on - one on each side of the steering column. Then remove the small phillips head screws located in the top of the dash cover panel (above the gauges) - four of them I think. Lastly, remove the bezel around the cigarette lighter. At that point you should be able to remove the dash cover panel completely. From there you'll have easy access to all of the gauges.

[Bentwheelbob]

Mission creep is setting in...you're just one or two rationalizations away from pulling the engine and stripping the car to the subframe. I think you should just go ahead and do it. Clean up the cowl and firewall, get the core support looking good, paint the subframe and suspension components....I did the Gold Car that way without pulling the front clip and it turned out great. If you ask MPR to use a sponge brush things might get ugly. BTW - your organization system looks great. Good idea.

On the underhood finishes, tell your powdercoating guy to do the inner fenders at 50% gloss, brackets and pulley's at 60% gloss, and air cleaner at 90 % gloss. You better get an AMK catalog so you can order a bunch of new tinnerman's and bolts.

[77 Canamman]

Originally Posted by OVERULD

What is this - a filter in the vacuum line? Why does it go to such a small diameter? Looks like it disappears into the firewall. Any idea what this goes to?



BJ

That is the vacuum source for the HVAC system. The check valve is still available:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/497853-GM-NO...BYTYBm&vxp=mtr

[OVERULD]

Originally Posted by pontiacstogo

Below the steering column is black cover panel that must be removed first - it is retained by two plastic locking screws accessed from directly below the panel. Once that's removed there are two long bolt headed screws holding the dash cover panel on - one on each side of the steering column. Then remove the small phillips head screws located in the top of the dash cover panel (above the gauges) - four of them I think. Lastly, remove the bezel around the cigarette lighter. At that point you should be able to remove the dash cover panel completely. From there you'll have easy access to all of the gauges.

Thanks for the reply - sounds similar to the process on my old GTO. How about the radio - is there a way to remove it without dropping the dash or removing the center console?

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Mission creep is setting in...you're just one or two rationalizations away from pulling the engine and stripping the car to the subframe. I think you should just go ahead and do it. Clean up the cowl and firewall, get the core support looking good, paint the subframe and suspension components....I did the Gold Car that way without pulling the front clip and it turned out great. If you ask MPR to use a sponge brush things might get ugly. BTW - your organization system looks great. Good idea.

On the underhood finishes, tell your powdercoating guy to do the inner fenders at 50% gloss, brackets and pulley's at 60% gloss, and air cleaner at 90 % gloss. You better get an AMK catalog so you can order a bunch of new tinnerman's and bolts.

Bob, you are correct about Mission Creep (and also productivity at my real job!) I really don't want to pull the engine right now. I'm trying to get the car ready for the Annual Peach Blossom BOPC show coming up in May. Some stuff will have to wait until this coming winter. I want to see how it looks after I hit with the steam cleaner. I can't take any credit for the organization ideas. Those are all MPR's who owns the shop. He is a solo paint and body shop and does all the body work for the local Police Department and a large regional pest control company - which keeps him busy. So this project is being worked in to his regular schedule. Thanks for the info on the paint finishes. He already has an AMK catalog - buys in bulk!

Originally Posted by 77 Canamman

That is the vacuum source for the HVAC system. The check valve is still available:

Thought that's what it was. Thanks for the clarification and links.

BJ

[Jerry H.]

Originally Posted by OVERULD

Thanks Jerry! Would love to hear your process for restoring the older single stage paints. We did that test spot on the top of the driver side fender because we knew we had to do a rust repair there. We test polished a couple places with 3M #1 and #2 compound, followed by some glazing with wax and got some good results. What process are you using on that 79 Camaro?

BJ

I'll forward the link when I'm in my office. It's on my other computer.

[Bentwheelbob]

A few more thoughts...

1) I do master cylinders in 50% gloss powder coat. Strip it down, send it out and then reassemble.
2) Norwood rebuilds and replated hood latches and they are beautiful.
3) AMK sells the little green clips that hold the cowl seal in place.
4) Be sure to send the filler panels when you send the inner fenders for powdercoating. Goodmark makes replacements that are very good.

[Judge273]

BJ, getting dirty on a resto-survivor project is cool. Having fun I bet!

[pontiacstogo]

Originally Posted by OVERULD

Thanks for the reply - sounds similar to the process on my old GTO. How about the radio - is there a way to remove it without dropping the dash or removing the center console?

Not sure - my radio and 8 track work but I've never had them out (or ever really used them). The radio can be R&R'd without dropping the dash, but you may have to remove the console to get it out?

BTW - I sent my gauge set out to Pete Serio for a restore and re-calibrate and it was money well spent, if for no other reason that I now have accurate oil and temperature readings.

[njsteve]

Ever read the children's book: "If You Give a Mouse a Cookie"?

That is the definition of mission creep. :-)

The original master finish was a flat black just for shipping rust prevention. The paint usually disappeared after a few months, and turned to surface rust. I don't know if you are going for the survivor/preservation route or the regular restoration route. You have to have the master cylinder completely disassembled to have the body powder coated. If it is leaking, I'd send it off to Whitepost for a sleeve/rebuild job.

I just had my inner fenders powder coated in semi glass black and they came out perfect - just like the original finish.

[OVERULD]

Originally Posted by Judge273

BJ, getting dirty on a resto-survivor project is cool. Having fun I bet!

I'm having a blast Mike! Just struggling with how far I want to go right now. I'm busting at the seams to drive this car over the summer and do a few shows. I'm probably going to minimalize the project somewhat so I can enjoy the car for awhile. Like Bob and Steve have said, mission creep is very insidious!

BJ

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by njsteve

The original master finish was a flat black just for shipping rust prevention. The paint usually disappeared after a few months, and turned to surface rust. I don't know if you are going for the survivor/preservation route or the regular restoration route. You have to have the master cylinder completely disassembled to have the body powder coated. If it is leaking, I'd send it off to Whitepost for a sleeve/rebuild job.

If it's not leaking, it is no big deal to disassemble it, get it powdercoated, and then reassemble it. If you send it to White Post (who does a great job), disassemble it first, have it powdercoated, and send them the parts with explicit instructions not to remove or mar the finish. Otherwise White Post will put a generic spray bomb black finish on it that has no durability.

[Held for Ransom]

Check valve above was not the same as an original '74.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=282100588318

Trim tag is normal. It will flatten out the more you rub it too.
Master cylinder looks to have been replaced.
Radio can be removed with console and A/C components in place, but it's a B****.

[Jerry H.]

Originally Posted by OVERULD

Thanks Jerry! Would love to hear your process for restoring the older single stage paints. We did that test spot on the top of the driver side fender because we knew we had to do a rust repair there. We test polished a couple places with 3M #1 and #2 compound, followed by some glazing with wax and got some good results. What process are you using on that 79 Camaro?

BJ

Here is a link to the 53 page article. Easy read, lots of those pages are pictures!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ge-paints.html