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Boostedbird · 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

First Off, you can have a great Brick (inter-cooler) with proper tubes feeding air to the cooling fins exposed to the vehicle airflow. But you can also screw up that inter-cooler Brick design with a poor inlet design.

Here are 3 inlet designs:

A Better Inter-cooler Design 1st pic, a good inter-cooler Design 2nd pic, and a Poor Inter-cooler Design 3rd pic.

All three, as said above may have a great core design.

If you look at the Better Inter-cooler Design (pic#1) the inlet is on the right side of the Brick.
The air comes into the inlet, some of the air hits the curved wall and some of the air packs up and stays need the bottom of the Brick.
What this does it provide nice even airflow to the full set of inter-cooler Brick "tubes" so every tube is doing the same amount of cooling.

If you look at the Good Inter-cooler Design (pic#2) the inlet can be on the right side or the left side of the Brick.
More options for plumbing here. The air comes into the Inlet tube, hits the back wall of the "Distribution Box", and then the air flows upward and downward to the set of inter-cooler Brick "tubes" so the Top portion of the tubes get a lot of nice air and the lower portion of the tubes get less air. Still not bad though.

If you look at the Not so Good Inter-cooler Design (pic#3) the inlet can be on the right side or the left side of the Brick.
The air basically comes into the inlet tube, there is really not much of a plenum on either side, so the air tries to flow thru the lower tubes and any air that can't get thru the tubes goes upward and then makes a hard left or right turn to get into the remaining inter-cooler tubes.
Easiest inter-cooler tanks to build but also the weakest as far as massive air flow capability. The Tubes might flow great the Inlet and Outlet Tanks suck.
So the inter-cooler tubes are rerally only working on that small bottom portion. The abrupt air flow direction changes are causing a lot of air turbulence.

I have added a couple of Ideal Design Inter-coolers Pics 4 and 5.
Pic #4 has very nice inlet tanks transitions. Pic #5 has the straight shot inlets BUT divides the core up into two bricks basically and makes sure that each side of the brick is doing less work and MORE EVEN work. #5 has a dual outlet but you could install a single LARGE outlet to the Bonnet for the Carb or the Throttle Body.

Food for thought.

Tom V.

Tom, this is Edwin's. He'd like to know your thoughts on this one, if you think it's a good design and if the air would be dispersed evenly through the core because of the bar in the opening.

oethel · 04-01-2018, 09:09 PM

Did some work on my exhaust.5 inch all the way to the trans,had some 3 inch pipe and D shaped it to fit.don't have any 3 1/2 around.does anyone know if two 3 1/2 will actually fit in a 5.

Tom Vaught · 04-01-2018, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostedbird

Tom, this is Edwin's. He'd like to know your thoughts on this one, if you think it's a good design and if the air would be dispersed evenly through the core because of the bar in the opening.

The bar across the center of the air path may force some of the air to the upper and lower portion of the brick. The tapered expansion of the inlet and its length from the core probably does as much as the tube in the center inlet.

All on all a pretty good entry and good outlet collector and reduction to the throttle pipe.

Tom V.

73 TRANSAM · 04-01-2018, 11:36 PM

Thanks Tom V for answering my question. Have a good night.

BruceWilkie · 04-03-2018, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oethel

Did some work on my exhaust.5 inch all the way to the trans,had some 3 inch pipe and D shaped it to fit.don't have any 3 1/2 around.does anyone know if two 3 1/2 will actually fit in a 5.

Two 3.5" diameter circles equals area just barely less than area of a 5" circle. Figure wall thickness of both it will take a bit of stretching of the 5" . Shouldn't be too hard to make them merge.

oethel · 04-03-2018, 10:00 PM

Thanks Bruce

oethel · 06-21-2018, 11:04 PM

Had it running for a couple of weeks now.had a lot of little stuff to get done to be road worthy.went on a 4 to 5 Mile loop today and all is well.still need a convertor that can handle the abuse,I'll be adding a innercooler soon along with bolt thru 9 in case,3.50 gear,chrome moly yokes and better driveshaft.in the pics I do have a tapered k&n air filter that's on it now.

JSPONT · 06-21-2018, 11:39 PM

Nice. go pro a ride when you get it worked out!

charlie66 · 06-22-2018, 06:50 AM

I like how you plumbed the wastegate back in to the exhaust. Great looking job man!

Tom Vaught · 06-22-2018, 08:58 AM

Agree, with Charlie, very clean installation of a Single Turbo package.

Tom V.

ponjohn · 06-23-2018, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oethel

Just about got my headers done.cut up some sbc stainless turbo headers with pontiac flanges and made these.not perfect by a long shot.1 5/8 tubes,2 1/2 outlet.

Did you form the end of the tube to go into the d-port shape of the flange?

Do you think the 1 5/8" tube size is sufficient?

oethel · 06-23-2018, 10:38 AM

Yes I formed pipes to d post.as far as the pipe diameter I believe from what I've read 1 5/8 Will be sufficient.maybe someone else can chime in on this subject but I think in my set up velocity is key.

Tom Vaught · 06-23-2018, 10:56 AM

If you ever looked at the pipes on John Welter's BIG single turbo firebird you would see that
Travis Quillen paid a lot of attention to the "smaller" pipe diameters feeding that turbo.

Tom V.

ponjohn · 06-23-2018, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oethel

Yes I formed pipes to d post.as far as the pipe diameter I believe from what I've read 1 5/8 Will be sufficient.maybe someone else can chime in on this subject but I think in my set up velocity is key.

Did the headers begin life as SBC turbo headers like these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Camar...dGe6mzUqaHCYVQ

70 bird · 06-23-2018, 10:04 PM

Looks Good!!

oethel · 10-24-2018, 09:23 PM

I got a treadstone tr1245 intercooler.i ran the piping through some holes that I had previously made in the core support for some ducting on my own ram air years ago.it was a little tight in places but overall not too big of a deal to install.also toughened up my 9 inch and went with a 3.50 richmond gear.my driveshaft is a pst 3 1/2 chrome moly with 1350 u joints and strange th400 yoke.sorry for the upside down pics.

oethel · 10-24-2018, 09:30 PM

More stuff

JSPONT · 10-25-2018, 10:45 AM

Very nice. Just my .02, my cooler did not work under the car like that and I had a fan on it. For local drives maybe, but long drives the tranny would heat up to 250.
I put the cooler up front runs 170.

oethel · 10-25-2018, 12:04 PM

I was thinking about some fans or some ducting to that cooler.i dont have a trans temp gauge and I should probably have one.thanks for the info

Tom Vaught · 10-25-2018, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSPONT

Very nice. Just my .02, my cooler did not work under the car like that and I had a fan on it. For local drives maybe, but long drives the tranny would heat up to 250.
I put the cooler up front runs 170.

Thanks for the comment about the cooler under the car, JSPONT.

The way that it is mounted the cooler has very little air flow passing thru the fins.
A scoop may not help because the other side would be the floorboard blocking the exit air flow.

Up in front where the cooler has a good shot at air from the grill is best.
Usually at speeds over 30 mph if the cooler/radiator sees any direct air flow there is massive
amounts of air passing thru the coolers.

Tom V.

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