[charlie66]

Thanks Tom. I have a few ideas im going to try this time. Its always a learning curve isn't it lol. This time I will have a better piece...

[charlie66]

Thank you Bruce.

No it has program 4 bolt caps, Ross pistons 24 cc dish with ring pack dropped, Eagle H beam 6.635 rods with 2.200 rod ends 990 pin. Only stock piece is the crank..

[charlie66]

I had the crank magnafluxed. It checked out good. I don't know if I ever told anyone, but I had a learning curve at one point with cracking cranks . So now I know how far I can push one of these 4 cylinder cranks, with this one checking out good this time...Went through 2 of them in a row.. lol at first I thought it was the boost level cranking them. Now I know it was the RPM's...

[TimeWarp]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I realize that the "Bomber Tank" vehicles are more period correct for a earlier time at Bonneville, Jack.

Tom V.

Speaking of a tank car, look what I picked up last month. I know its off-thread, but...

Sorry, took a few to get the pics to load.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by charlie66

I had the crank magnafluxed. It checked out good. I don't know if I ever told anyone, but I had a learning curve at one point with cracking cranks . So now I know how far I can push one of these 4 cylinder cranks, with this one checking out good this time...Went through 2 of them in a row.. lol at first I thought it was the boost level cranking them. Now I know it was the RPM's...

That is correct Charlie which is why most will want to turn the boost up a bit more, use durable valvetrain parts that will survive at a moderate rpm level for a long time, and stay conservative on the timing and compression ratio for maximum head gasket sealing life.

If you ever change pistons, a quarter of a point of lower compression ratio can sometimes keep the engine alive and allow even more boost. (;

Tom V.

Cool on the Bomber Tank

[wheneaglesfly]

Originally Posted by TimeWarp

Speaking of a tank car, look what I picked up last month. I know its off-thread, but...

Sorry, took a few to get the pics to load.

Oh Man.
I dream of owning building a Belly Tank Salt Flat Racer.
Maybe someday.

[Boostedbird]

Originally Posted by charlie66

Thanks Tom. I have a few ideas im going to try this time. Its always a learning curve isn't it lol. This time I will have a better piece...

Charlie, I'd like to see you do an intake like one of these. These are from a Toyota. I was thinking that you could use a race Honda intake or something for the plenum also. You already have the intake flange. You would just have to build new runners to the plenum.

[Tom Vaught]

That actually is a very good intake for distribution to the runners.
Even the front cylinder gets a fair shot at acquiring fuel from the #1 runner.

Charlie has a bunch of time invested in his personally modded 4 cylinder manifold,
(injector bungs, rails, packaging, etc) so swapping to a different intake design (even
though it looks like a good design), might not be in the cards.

Tom V.

[BruceWilkie]

Charlie... BME aluminum rods and a good dampner and best balance you can get should buy you more RPM. An ATI dampner or an Engineered West absorber only ones I'd consider.

Excellent harmonic control is biggest key to any crank living, especially cast cranks. A few brave souls have gone 7800 to 8600 rpm on N cranks at high power levels. Dont know what an armasteel crank will hold but I think more than 6500.

Cast cranks are very stiff which actually does make them strong. They simply wont tolerate near as much flex as a forged or billet crank will. Therefore flex from harmonic control is extra critical.

Aluminum rods act like shock absorbers compared to steel rods. They'll do some of the flexing and absorbing your cast crank wont. (They'll hold up just fine on the street as long as you dont hammer on them till oil is up to temp. Low rpm light cruising loads will have minimal effect on race cycle life.)

Also tune up plays a big role... even the lightest inaudible amount of detonation will upset harmonic control.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

That is correct Charlie which is why most will want to turn the boost up a bit more, use durable valvetrain parts that will survive at a moderate rpm level for a long time, and stay conservative on the timing and compression ratio for maximum head gasket sealing life.

If you ever change pistons, a quarter of a point of lower compression ratio can sometimes keep the engine alive and allow even more boost. (;

Tom V.

Cool on the Bomber Tank

My particular turbo at my ci likes and is most efficient at 7500 rpm's . So being I cant go that high I will have to spin it lower like 6000 to 6500 and just throw more boost at it just like you said.. Its been working so far. Just now I have to pay attention more on how the cylinders will hold up. If its not one thing its another right ? Lol!

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Boostedbird

Charlie, I'd like to see you do an intake like one of these. These are from a Toyota. I was thinking that you could use a race Honda intake or something for the plenum also. You already have the intake flange. You would just have to build new runners to the plenum.

That's funny you're showing me this because that is the exact design I was going to use. My friend has the same looking manifold on his 2JZ motor that I always refer to .It works great and think it will on my application as well.

Thanks for posting it! Hey what is your name by the way? I know it cant Boostedbird. lol!

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

That actually is a very good intake for distribution to the runners.
Even the front cylinder gets a fair shot at acquiring fuel from the #1 runner.

Charlie has a bunch of time invested in his personally modded 4 cylinder manifold,
(injector bungs, rails, packaging, etc) so swapping to a different intake design (even
though it looks like a good design), might not be in the cards.

Tom V.

Very true. So for now I might try a 1 inch spacer just to see if it does anything...

[charlie66]

If I were starting out fresh I would consider trying those rods Bruce but it would cost a lot more for me at this point. I have to check and see what damper I have. I forgot.

[Boostedbird]

Originally Posted by charlie66

That's funny you're showing me this because that is the exact design I was going to use. My friend has the same looking manifold on his 2JZ motor that I always refer to .It works great and think it will on my application as well.

Thanks for posting it! Hey what is your name by the way? I know it cant Boostedbird. lol!

Ha! It's Ronnie!

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Boostedbird

Ha! It's Ronnie!

Sup Ronnie! Haha...

[JSPONT]

As cool as Charlie's 4 cyl. is, and it is cool, I keep telling him to start building his 8 cyl. Pontiac. Charlie will push the limits of that too and have a wicked crazy street car. He would have the V8 at 40 psi in no time. I'm to scared to turn my car up like Charlie wants me too!
Then again, I row gears and Charlie tells me don't bring a row boat to a speed boat race! LMAO

[charlie66]

lol I'm probably better off not building a 8 cylinder just to keep it safe Jeff . The Same reason why I bought a curser bike instead of a GXR1000 because I always have to go all out. But I still say turn it up! That's my motto ! Bring it over and i'll tune it for 15 psi.. U never know, at 15 that row boat might just drive right bye that speed boat with only 4 holes! hahaha or you could just put a glide in it...

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

... wondering why you are using a 60s 4 cylinder engine...

By "old school" I mean early sixties. Mickey designed the Pontiac hemi head in '62, and he prolificallly created a variety of altered-design Pontiac race engines from '58 - '62. If someone viewing my engine someday asks "What year did Mickey build that?" I will have accomplished my goal

[TimeWarp]

Originally Posted by wheneaglesfly

Oh Man.
I dream of owning building a Belly Tank Salt Flat Racer.
Maybe someday.

LOL, I'm not really sure why I picked it up, other than I think its cool too. I may end up selling it to someone else that will actually DO something with it.

[JSPONT]

Originally Posted by charlie66

lol I'm probably better off not building a 8 cylinder just to keep it safe Jeff . The Same reason why I bought a curser bike instead of a GXR1000 because I always have to go all out. But I still say turn it up! That's my motto ! Bring it over and i'll tune it for 15 psi.. U never know, at 15 that row boat might just drive right bye that speed boat with only 4 holes! hahaha or you could just put a glide in it...

What fun would a glide be! Right now I have one of the fastest stick cars in our area. I would be low on the list with an automatic.