[allenga]

I have factory AC in my 77, converted to 134. I have the system now working very well when the outside air temp is in the 80s. I have to turn it down as I get too cold.

When its 100+ F in the summer, and I stop in traffic or go through the drive-through, cold air for the most part stops and it gets very uncomfortable in the car.

My cooling system is now excellent. Car stays under 200. I have a mechanical fan/clutch.

So, it sucks to drive my car all summer. :-/

I think it would be great to have a condenser fan pushing air while the mechanical fan pulls..

[Formulabruce]

R134 requires a different size orfice ( smaller) in the valve. It needs a bit higher pressure to make it as efficient as possible. Installing a double pass condensor up front can help too.
1 easy thing to do first is put a 160 Thermostat in the intake. Good luck !

[Grand73Am]

If you haven't already, you could lower the a/c temps a few degrees by installing an inline shutoff valve in the 5/8" heater hose.

Also, if you aren't already, use the "max" setting on your controls so it will recirculate inside air.

[77 TRASHCAN]

My ex had a Mazda mini van, 1992. There was a pusher fan in front of the condenser that ran constantly if the AC was on. I plan to do same on my TA...I also plan to utilize heater shut off valves on my heater hoses also.

When you converted to R134, did you change the orifice tube to one, for R134?, as mentioned in previous post. Any parts store should be able to sell you what you need.

[allenga]

Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN

My ex had a Mazda mini van, 1992. There was a pusher fan in front of the condenser that ran constantly if the AC was on. I plan to do same on my TA...I also plan to utilize heater shut off valves on my heater hoses also.

When you converted to R134, did you change the orifice tube to one, for R134?, as mentioned in previous post. Any parts store should be able to sell you what you need.

Yes, correct oriface tube.

[ta6point6]

You should look into upgrading to cs130 alternator. The early 10si only put out about 40 amps and at idle even less. Think about it your AC is on which in turn is using the fan, magnetizing the ac compressor and the idle solenoid. Lets not even mention the stereo blasting away. You ever notice while sitting at a light how fan slows down and less air is coming out of vents, this is why wimpy alternator. Older alternators required higher rpm to get to 40-60 amps. The alternator is putting a drag on motor to meet electrical demands. The cs130 alternator puts out about 80 to 100 amps at idle and will keep everything humming along just fine.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by ta6point6

You should look into upgrading to cs130 alternator. The early 10si only put out about 40 amps and at idle even less. Think about it your AC is on which in turn is using the fan, magnetizing the ac compressor and the idle solenoid. Lets not even mention the stereo blasting away. You ever notice while sitting at a light how fan slows down and less air is coming out of vents, this is why wimpy alternator. Older alternators required higher rpm to get to 40-60 amps. The alternator is putting a drag on motor to meet electrical demands. The cs130 alternator puts out about 80 to 100 amps at idle and will keep everything humming along just fine.

Amps were 55 on the 10si with AC and 37 on std cars. The 12si was also available in 80.
What a person can do, if needed is put a new stator in their 10si, which will make it excite and deliver more current at a lower speed. I have done this to 9 of them with great results.

[allenga]

Thanks guys for the input. Blower motor speed is not my issue. My blower motor is working fine, just blowing warm air out of the vents. I think I need a condenser fan in the desert..