[Masaki]

Asking for input on what brands are better than others? I have the ogpi parts book and the Ames parts book. Not sure if there are differences between them. How would a DIY carpet work? Does anyone have experience with sound deadening. How much should I use???


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[b-man]

Pretty much every vendor sells carpet from ACC - Auto Custom Carpet.

It’s been that way for decades, it’s quality molded carpet.

You could always call and ask whoever you’re thinking of buying from to tell you where they source their carpets from.

[Rachelsdad]

ACC is fairly good replacement carpet. Aside from material and color, the cut and finish is important. I got ACC from Ames for my '63 about 20 years ago, and it has been on the shelf ever since. I finally had the interior work done last May, and the upholstery shop didn't want to use it, concerned that it had dried in the intervening years. So, add freshness to the list of criteria (though I am not sure that these things are date coded at all, even today).

As for DIY, generally, carpet will come in two pieces: one for the front and one for the back. Remove sills, seats, seat belt floor mounts, console (if applicable), and kick panels.

Inspect for rust and general floorboard condition, and repair as necessary (with metal, as in cut out the rusted metal, weld new, undercoat outside, and then apply some primer and color (with rust inhibitor) inside before adding sound deadener.

Sound deadener is generally available in sheets, with a self-adhesive backing (or factory heavy tar content pre-cut pieces and mastic). I highly recommend a good, modern deadener, such as DynaMat or equivalent. The internet is replete with reviews for different brands and offerings. The sheets cut fairly easily, and there is a roller tool used to get it to form and solidly stick to the floor. It's not brain work, just grunt work, really, but it pays off really well.

Install the rear carpet first, and then install the front. The binding on the edge will overlap the "other" piece. You need to pay attention up front to the heel plate under the pedals (note the way your original carpet is positioned before removing it). Be sure to mark/puncture holes for seat and seatbelt mountings as you go. Also be mindful when working up front to get the carpet far enough "up" the firewall (again paying attention to the heel plate location; sometimes, it's a compromise between where you want the heel plate and how far up the firewall you want the carpet and pad to reach).

Wrap up by reinstalling the seats, belts, console (if applicable), kick panels, and sills.

The last time I did one from scratch was decades ago, but I remember the hardest part was slowly working the carpet over and around the hump up front to avoid wrinkles and sags. Other than that, it was pretty straightforward.

HTH and GL

[b-man]

Regarding older carpets purchased and never installed, I bought ACC carpet for my Le Mans convertible in 1997 and have been storing it in the original box in my garage ever since.

I was ordering everything for a complete new interior in April of 2024 and checked the old/new carpet out before ordering new. It’s just as supple and flexible as when I first looked at it in 1997.

[Rachelsdad]

This is great news, and confirms my suspicions. Mine is still in the original box, so I feel better about selling it for a reasonable price, now (assuming I can find a buyer). Thanks for sharing. ;-)

[78w72]

X3 for ACC, have used them in many 2nd gen birds with excellent results, fit, color & wear are all very good.

Best price on it will be from bigger sellers like summit or rock auto, at least $50 cheaper than the smaller facebook type firebird sellers or even places like classic & NPD etc etc.

[Masaki]

Originally Posted by Rachelsdad

ACC is fairly good replacement carpet. Aside from material and color, the cut and finish is important. I got ACC from Ames for my '63 about 20 years ago, and it has been on the shelf ever since. I finally had the interior work done last May, and the upholstery shop didn't want to use it, concerned that it had dried in the intervening years. So, add freshness to the list of criteria (though I am not sure that these things are date coded at all, even today).

As for DIY, generally, carpet will come in two pieces: one for the front and one for the back. Remove sills, seats, seat belt floor mounts, console (if applicable), and kick panels.

Inspect for rust and general floorboard condition, and repair as necessary (with metal, as in cut out the rusted metal, weld new, undercoat outside, and then apply some primer and color (with rust inhibitor) inside before adding sound deadener.

Sound deadener is generally available in sheets, with a self-adhesive backing (or factory heavy tar content pre-cut pieces and mastic). I highly recommend a good, modern deadener, such as DynaMat or equivalent. The internet is replete with reviews for different brands and offerings. The sheets cut fairly easily, and there is a roller tool used to get it to form and solidly stick to the floor. It's not brain work, just grunt work, really, but it pays off really well.

Install the rear carpet first, and then install the front. The binding on the edge will overlap the "other" piece. You need to pay attention up front to the heel plate under the pedals (note the way your original carpet is positioned before removing it). Be sure to mark/puncture holes for seat and seatbelt mountings as you go. Also be mindful when working up front to get the carpet far enough "up" the firewall (again paying attention to the heel plate location; sometimes, it's a compromise between where you want the heel plate and how far up the firewall you want the carpet and pad to reach).

Wrap up by reinstalling the seats, belts, console (if applicable), kick panels, and sills.

The last time I did one from scratch was decades ago, but I remember the hardest part was slowly working the carpet over and around the hump up front to avoid wrinkles and sags. Other than that, it was pretty straightforward.

HTH and GL

One of the best responses I’ve gotten! This will 100% help me. I’ll save this for the future . I have no carpet in right now as I’ve just purchased the floor pans. What seam sealer would you recommend for the welds??? I do t want it rusting through after the years. It’s been parked outside for 20 odd years and I don’t see it being garaged any time soon.


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[OG68]

I can add a few things to the comments above.

My first ACC carpet was from OPGI and it was in a box for several years. I installed it but it didn't fit quite right over the transmission hump. (Floor shift). I found out after reading the directions I had a Chevelle carpet. My fault for not verifying I had the correct carpet, OPGI's fault for sending a Chevelle carpet.



The point is, not all A body carpets are the same. Even within makes, there are differences. Automatic or manual, floor shift or column. Make sure you order the right one (year, model, transmission type) and then verify when you receive it. Not after you cut it like I did.
The next ACC carpet from Ames was spot on.

Secondly, there is a procedure for cutting the carpet for the seat brackets. The brackets go under the carpet, not on top. It takes a few minutes more to do it right but it looks 100% better.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ghlight=carpet


The front carpet goes under the toe plate and the front firewall pad.






On a two door A body I've found that the rear of the front carpet is usually parallel with the Fisher Body emblem on the sill plates. Adjust and cut as necessary to insure sufficient material is under the firewall pad.

[Masaki]

Originally Posted by OG68

I can add a few things to the comments above.

My first ACC carpet was from OPGI and it was in a box for several years. I installed it but it didn't fit quite right over the transmission hump. (Floor shift). I found out after reading the directions I had a Chevelle carpet. My fault for not verifying I had the correct carpet, OPGI's fault for sending a Chevelle carpet.



The point is, not all A body carpets are the same. Even within makes, there are differences. Automatic or manual, floor shift or column. Make sure you order the right one (year, model, transmission type) and then verify when you receive it. Not after you cut it like I did.
The next ACC carpet from Ames was spot on.

Secondly, there is a procedure for cutting the carpet for the seat brackets. The brackets go under the carpet, not on top. It takes a few minutes more to do it right but it looks 100% better.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ghlight=carpet


The front carpet goes under the toe plate and the front firewall pad.






On a two door A body I've found that the rear of the front carpet is usually parallel with the Fisher Body emblem on the sill plates. Adjust and cut as necessary to insure sufficient material is under the firewall pad.

Thanks! Another great response! I’ll keep these things noted when installing carpet after the floor pan install


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[Rachelsdad]

Indeed, Ed; great guidance - and with pics!

As for seam sealer, I would probably recommend something from Eastwood. They seem (no pun intended) to have a decent selection, from brushables to caulking gun formulations, and even in black vs white (I know that this doesn't make a difference in your immediate case, but you might make use of it elsewhere, such as where I did, on the engine side of the firewall or around the trunk gutter).

Hope this helps, too.

[Masaki]

Originally Posted by Rachelsdad

Indeed, Ed; great guidance - and with pics!

As for seam sealer, I would probably recommend something from Eastwood. They seem (no pun intended) to have a decent selection, from brushables to caulking gun formulations, and even in black vs white (I know that this doesn't make a difference in your immediate case, but you might make use of it elsewhere, such as where I did, on the engine side of the firewall or around the trunk gutter).

Hope this helps, too.

Thanks


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