[My442]

I replaced the factory resistor wire with a regular wire.

[Cammer-6]

you can tap into the wire ahead of the resistor to get the 12v and still have the 9v for coil
just find the resistor wire and follow it back to the splice point.

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

The staock wire harness for your car has the resistor built into the wire. It's similar to the fuseable link wires in the system , you can't see that either.

Thanks

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by PMD1969

I am not sure what that means?

it means you monitor the dwell while working the throttle as high as you think is safe. dwell should stay nearly constant. I found the OHC6 dist will show a dwell jump (a bad thing) at the higher RPMs.

[tom s]

post number 2,I said to run 12V constant to the coil.My 63 Cat with a pertronics ran like crap untill I figured out the resistor wire was run to the coil.On my car it made a huge diff.Tom

[george kujanski]

OK, Tom, here's a pic of the install instructions for an Ignitor (not Ig II or III).

Fig 1 seems to indicate it's to be used with an original points system with resistor, but the connection to the Ig module red wire is not shown, obvious omission.

Fig 3 seems to indicate the same usage but it shows the module red wire connection.

Confusing.......my opinion is fig 3 is the proper one...full voltage to the module, yet, keeps the coil current within original specs.

Use what works for you.

George

[rexs73gto]

If you check your wiring you'll find 3 wires that are a complete 12V's that come out of the main harness that comes from the bulk head connector. Just use any one of them that are keyed hot becuse if you don't use the keyed hot you will have 12V's ggoing to the module all the time & you will burn it up in a very short time. Double check all your connections when ever your doing any electrical work as you don't want to lose your ride to a fire because you didn't check it twice.

[shifterkart26]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

If you check your wiring you'll find 3 wires that are a complete 12V's that come out of the main harness that comes from the bulk head connector. Just use any one of them that are keyed hot becuse if you don't use the keyed hot you will have 12V's ggoing to the module all the time & you will burn it up in a very short time. Double check all your connections when ever your doing any electrical work as you don't want to lose your ride to a fire because you didn't check it twice.

Be careful not to pick a wire that is also keyed hot in the accessory key position. That will burn up the module if you are just listening to the radio with the engine off. I am very happy with my Pertronix. Modern reliability without compromising original look.

[george kujanski]

forgot to add the pic

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

forgot to add the pic

George,

The picture you have sent is a different page than the one I received with the unit. Mine says that the resistor may or may not be in the original wiring system. It says NOT to change anything. I hooked it up according to Figure #2.

[Cammer-6]

Originally Posted by PMD1969

George,

The picture you have sent is a different page than the one I received with the unit. Mine says that the resistor may or may not be in the original wiring system. It says NOT to change anything. I hooked it up according to Figure #2.

I think youre missing the point
your car CAME with resistor wire.

[george kujanski]

I don't intend to beat a dead horse, I just wanted to bring attention to the install instructions, given that there have been postings about Pertronix reliability issues, what ever they are or not.

To address the case where an original resistor wire is bypassed, being in the engineering design biz, I know that the switch transistor in an ignition module needs to be rated for the current thru it. Using a existing coil without a series resistance increases the coil current and may eventually degrade the switching transistor.

This MAY cause long term reliability issues and one should be aware. That's all I wanted to mention.

George

[Cammer-6]

on a similar note I bought a 68 Firebird convertible because the guy said after he put some performance parts on it ,it just didnt run right.
P4b,holley,hedman headers,th400,unilite,Hurst shifter,traction bars etc.
I trailered it home and began to check things out.
I found that the Unilite had the OEM resistor wire attached to the power feed and Hyfire coil had ballast resistor and the feed from resistor wire.
I got it going and put a jumper directly from battery to the coils ballast resistor and unilite and it was like flipping a switch.
I never did call the guy back to tell him how simple it was to fix.

[Jeff Hamlin]

Stock coil, No spliced, by-passed wires and/or other electrical mods.
Starts everytime all the time and has for many years now.

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by Cammer-6

on a similar note I bought a 68 Firebird convertible because the guy said after he put some performance parts on it ,it just didnt run right.
P4b,holley,hedman headers,th400,unilite,Hurst shifter,traction bars etc.
I trailered it home and began to check things out.
I found that the Unilite had the OEM resistor wire attached to the power feed and Hyfire coil had ballast resistor and the feed from resistor wire.
I got it going and put a jumper directly from battery to the coils ballast resistor and unilite and it was like flipping a switch.
I never did call the guy back to tell him how simple it was to fix.

I will try to power it through the battery when I get back and see if it makes any difference.

[Birdguy]

What seems to be the preferred coil to use with the Pertronix Ignitor (not II or III) system?
After much reading I've seen good and bad with almost all of them. I am currently using the same type that it had with the original points-type setup, so I'm guessing that 3-ohm 40,000+ volt are the key specs to be looking for. I did replace the resistance wire with an 18-guage directly to the fuse block as per the instructions.