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Old 02-28-2021, 03:22 PM
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Default 70 TA window repair/adjustment

So on my new car the drivers side window is out of adjustment. The top front of the window is low about a good 2 inches and the rear top edge is high about 1 inch when the window is fully raised. I've never been inside the door of one of these before but I've watched some videos and looked at parts diagrams so I have some very basic idea about what's going on in there.

So first, here's what I think happened. The guy who transported it thought it was easier to climb into the car through the window rather than open the door in the trailer. I think that when he did that the window was not all the way down and he pushed something out of place. Don't know if that's possible but that's what I'm thinking.

The window cranks up and down smoothly, but with more resistance than it should. It goes down all the way. no abnormal sounds. Left to right tilt/angle seems OK. Feels tight not loose or rattling.

Any thoughts about what to look for first?

Thanks.

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Old 02-28-2021, 08:14 PM
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Once the door panel ( or "card") is off and the weather sealing paper is out of the way, you can see what it looks like in the up position. The regulator ( has the crank) has a X pattern lift which slides on a track bolted to bottom of the window. Its possible one of the rollers in front is off that main track bolted to bottom of the glass. You may have to loosen the regulator to position the glass just right to get it back in. Have patience, may not be as quick and easy as it seems. Good luck!

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Old 02-28-2021, 09:21 PM
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This link may help you go to page 19 post 328 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=keepat

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Old 03-09-2021, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulabruce View Post
Once the door panel ( or "card") is off and the weather sealing paper is out of the way, you can see what it looks like in the up position. The regulator ( has the crank) has a X pattern lift which slides on a track bolted to bottom of the window. Its possible one of the rollers in front is off that main track bolted to bottom of the glass. You may have to loosen the regulator to position the glass just right to get it back in. Have patience, may not be as quick and easy as it seems. Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 72TAMAN View Post
This link may help you go to page 19 post 328 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=keepat
Thanks for the advice Formulabruce. That older thread was VERY helpful too 72TAMAN.

I spent a couple hours working on this today. On initial inspection, nothing was loose, out of place or obviously broken. I noticed right away that the upper stops were both adjusted to their maximum travel, one up, the other down. To me, anytime you have to adjust something like that as far as it will go, something is probably not right.

So the window in general is too high in the rear and low in the front. However, they have the rear stop set as low as it can go and the window is still too high. The front is the opposite, the stop is all the way up and the window still too low. I made all kinds of adjustments. In this system, each adjustment had more than 1 effect, so that takes some practice, trial and error, to figure out. I was able to get it A LOT better, but not good enough. It looks like when they did the car they pulled the glass out to paint the door but they didn't really "restore" the mechanism.

Anyway, I'm going to take the window out and see what's going on in there. I ordered parts today so I'll do that as so as I get 'em.

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Old 03-17-2021, 12:10 PM
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Hi again. Does anyone have advice on what type of lubrication for the regulator and guide channels? Wheel bearing grease vs white lithium grease, or something else? Looks like wheel bearing grease or similar in there now.


Thanks.

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Old 03-17-2021, 01:31 PM
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I understood that bearing grease was used in the channels, and white lithium might be best for the mechanism.

I know adjusting these windows can be a PITA, but like you suggested, trial and error is really the way to go... unless of course you're an old hand at it, and know exactly where to start based on what's happening.

As I recall all the channels can be moved around, so if you're still not happy with where the glass is ending up, maybe you have to look at loosening, and adjusting the channels?

Good luck!

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  #7  
Old 03-17-2021, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unruhjonny View Post
I understood that bearing grease was used in the channels, and white lithium might be best for the mechanism.

I know adjusting these windows can be a PITA, but like you suggested, trial and error is really the way to go... unless of course you're an old hand at it, and know exactly where to start based on what's happening.

As I recall all the channels can be moved around, so if you're still not happy with where the glass is ending up, maybe you have to look at loosening, and adjusting the channels?

Good luck!
Thanks very much for the advice. That's what I'm gonna do.

Definitely not and old. hand. I'm a first timer at this job. I could tell from the paint around the adjustment channels that someone before me spent a fair amount of time trying to get it right and couldn't. I tried adjusting everything, and many combinations of things. It's been a really long time but the more I think about it I seem to remember this is the behavior of a bad/broken window regulator. I'm thinking it's either that or the rollers and hardware on the window. We'll see.

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Old 03-19-2021, 12:03 PM
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So my intention was to get everything removed from the door in preparation for my new parts (regulator, rollers, bushings, etc). When I got the window out I found that the hardware was all fairly loose. I never took the regulator out but it seemed to move up and down freely and nothing seemed obviously wrong with it. So I decided to tidy up the window hardware, put the window back in and give it another shot. After working with for a while I got it much closer. Much better really but still not right. No matter what I do, the rear of the window wants to go up higher than the front and if I get the front high enough, the rear is too high, and that's with the rear stop as low as I can get it.

So I'm back to plan A which is to replace the regulator, rollers, bushings, etc. I doubt there's anything wrong with the guide channels, but just in case I have all new window and regulator guides coming too. I was supposed to get the parts yesterday but UPS says they've been delayed and are coming today.

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Old 04-15-2021, 08:31 AM
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Glad I found this thread. My driver window does not close all the way (about 1/4" remains open) and it whistles when you drive down the road, unless you crack the window a bit further. I'm going to pull the door panel 'card' off to take alook. Jhein, did you need any special tools to get the panel off?

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Old 04-15-2021, 08:54 AM
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If the PO replaced the outer rubber it can throw the window way off, I replaced mine with GM PCs and it took me all day to re adjust. The fisher body book shows how to adjust and harpy is for what. My down travel was off, turned out the rubber stop fell off and was inside the door. No more clunk when I roll down the window.
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2021, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerboy View Post
Glad I found this thread. My driver window does not close all the way (about 1/4" remains open) and it whistles when you drive down the road, unless you crack the window a bit further. I'm going to pull the door panel 'card' off to take alook. Jhein, did you need any special tools to get the panel off?
First, I am not an expert on this.

To remove the panel there are tools for that. You can use other things like a stiff putty knife or something. I wouldn't use a screwdriver, too narrow and may damage the panel. Maybe if you were very careful it would be OK but I didn't try it. You'll need new clips and possibly new plastic door inserts. Other than that it was simple to get the panel off and back on.

If your window is aligned well in the window frame when it's as far up as it will go, you may just need to move the upper stops in the front and rear tracks up a little. If it's off more than that, then it could be more complicated. There are 10 (by my count) different points of adjustment in the system. Each one has a main effect on the window but many of them have more than one effect so there's a lot of trial and error. I don't know what car you're talking about but if it's a firebird, then whenever you make any adjustment, be very careful closing the door with the window up because it can make contact with the frame when you close the door with the window up.

And don't forget to disconnect the battery because you may be at it for a while.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share

Last edited by jhein; 04-15-2021 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 04-15-2021, 12:18 PM
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Thanks Jhein.
My car is a twin-sister to yours (1970 TA, white/blue, blue interior, RAIII 4-spd, no console, no options, Norwood-built)

Frank


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Old 04-15-2021, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerboy View Post
Thanks Jhein.
My car is a twin-sister to yours (1970 TA, white/blue, blue interior, RAIII 4-spd, no console, no options, Norwood-built)

Frank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice. You have good taste in cars. Mine came from the factory with a radio but they deleted that on the Resto so it really is setup as a no option Norwood car.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share
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