[Dragncar]

Who makes one for our engine ?

[GTOGEORGE]

It the time, I’m not sure if they made one for a BOP so I made my own at work out of 1/8” steel.


GTO George

[chiefbigb]

3/16 is the way to go. All the thin ones end up bent

[johnta1]

Use chrome-moly plate.
Stronger plus lighter. (when using the thinner 1/8")

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by chiefbigb

3/16 is the way to go. All the thin ones end up bent

You must have used Chinese steel! LOL!


GTO George

[Dave Polichena]

You can Use a Chevy plate, just make it fit installed backwards for starter. If using factory block, just weld a couple of tabs up top where trans bolts to block.

[Doug Hopkins]

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-137...-midplate.aspx

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by chiefbigb

3/16 is the way to go. All the thin ones end up bent

Who sells them ?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Doug Hopkins

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-137...-midplate.aspx

Thanks, this is a option. But thinner (.100) than the .125 I am looking for.
My converter was not made with a mid plate in mind so I can only put it mack so far.
If its made out of high grade steel that would be great.
I use Alston stuff. High quality.

[ErikW]

http://allpontiac.com/midmotor_125.html

https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...tegory:1234736

Works great!

[Dragncar]

Called Alston and they do make a 10 gauge mid plate more designed for stock frames. A little wider side to side. But its like 180$ vs the 60 bucks for the .100 thick plate.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by ErikW

http://allpontiac.com/midmotor_125.html

https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...tegory:1234736

Works great!

I like the way those fit. Did you have to get a converter with the long tang to deal with the 3/16 setback ?
BTW, nice work Erick. You do that yourself ?

[chiefbigb]

I make my own.

[Dragncar]

Called Frank, guy is great. What I have to do is put the converter up to the crank with flex plate on and set it back the 3/16 with washers. And make sure it is centered exactly. Some converters are different/tapered. Its all about being centered , not the tangs for the pump.
Also he makes a front plate for my frame too that has nothing to do with timing cover so its pretty easy. Even if I have to go with a .100 in the back this front plate is the way to go.
Off with the elephant ears. They turned out really nice but put pressure on the head. One thing with iron heads but going to aluminum.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by chiefbigb

I make my own.

How long does it take you ? I thought about it but if I can buy one for 60$ or 90$ that's more than worth the time and hassle.

[janderson]

Alston mid plate, All Pontiac front plate.
(Gen 2 Firebird sub frame)

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by janderson

Alston mid plate, All Pontiac front plate.
(Gen 2 Firebird sub frame)

I was thinking I might be better off doing the same thing. The .100 plate in the back might give me less issues.
Nice work BTW.

[chiefbigb]

The plate will need fitted around your headers and frame width more than likely. I have a few patterns I can use after I put the engine where it belongs and cut one out in a few hours. You have to make sure your snout on the converter is in the crank to. I run ati converters and can change the pilot out for a longer one. They sell correct shins for the ears to

[RAIV-Z]

After breaking a trans case I'm upgrading from a 3/16 steel to a 1/4 7075 aluminum.
Blank Rear Motor Plate - Chevrolet dowel pin holes
Product Code: 38100

24" x 24" with crank and vent holes, Chevrolet dowel pin holes. 1/4" thick, 7075 aluminum alloy. Allows profile to be cut to match existing or special plates.

Manufacturer: Mark Williams Enterprises, Inc.

[ErikW]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I like the way those fit. Did you have to get a converter with the long tang to deal with the 3/16 setback ?
BTW, nice work Erick. You do that yourself ?

My son Nick does all of my fab work, our converter was ordered for use with it. Check out the whole build in the Boost forum. "Boosted Bandit build thread"