[Steve C.]

As long as the subject was brought up, for interest info from a subframe connector supplier......

Subframe connectors will benefit you in every aspect. The first thing is longevity of the vehicle. Most unibody vehicles will create rattles and squeaks over time as the chassis twists and flexes. You will also gain handling benefits as well as traction for straight line. Think of it this way, your suspension is only as good as the chassis it is attached to. When your chassis is flexing you will not be able to utilize the suspension geometry to its greatest potential. The first thing any vehicle should get is a good set of subframe connectors and other chassis stiffening components. This will allow you to keep your pickup points (control arm mounts and shock mounts) rigid and not flexing so your suspension will be able to work properly and not change in geometry uncontrollably. If you hit a pothole or push the car hard into a corner what do you want to move, your suspension or your chassis? You will want your suspension to move through its proper travel to keep the contact patch of the tire planted on the ground for greater control and better ride quality.

Now we can 'argue' over the ride harshness with them !


.

[grandam1979]

Just added connectors to my car it makes well over 500 hp I will let you guys know if I see any 60ft change 1.6-1.7 now and 11.20-30 with all stock suspension. I’m interested to see the difference.

[tom s]

You can feel the dif for sure!Tom

[74Grandville]

Someday I may put a 4.5” in a P350. Why? Because it’s unique. I saw an episode of muscle car where they put a 4.25” in a 326. It made a nice tractor engine with gobs of torque.


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[AIR RAM]

Originally Posted by 74Grandville

Someday I may put a 4.5” in a P350. Why? Because it’s unique. I saw an episode of muscle car where they put a 4.25” in a 326. It made a nice tractor engine with gobs of torque.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LMAO... That would make for some interesting convo!!!

SPEED SAFE, NICK

[65sport]

Originally Posted by LostHighway

Its been a little while since I posted but I am enjoying my '75 Bird. So much so that she is starting to show a rear main seal leak that cannot be ignored... So I figure its time to start doing what I want to do... A nice 350.

Does anyone see any issues running a 4.25" stroke crank in a smallish bore 350? I plan on machining the bore to a 3.915" (.040") over and using the 4.25" crank for a total of 409 cubic inches. Cylinder heads will be machined and ported 5C's with roller rocker arms and a decent roller cam doing the work. The car has A/C and needs to be operable. The radiator will be upgraded and I am looking for one that has a oil cooler integrated. Thanks for your feedback, I really like this site!

LLPMD!

Get a stroker kit from Butler.

[65sport]

Originally Posted by LostHighway

Compression is going to be near 9.0. Maybe a little more. I like the idea of an Edelbrock head as the chamber is WAY better than the stock one, plus the weight savings and extra flow.. etc. etc. BUT... This is to be a "stock appearing" engine. Nobody knows but me. (And now you) but you get the idea. It is in no way going to be a racecar. Just a weekend cruiser thatll be fun.

The 5C heads would require work or dome pistons to get near 9:1. Aftermarket heads a good idea.

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by 65sport

The 5C heads would require work or dome pistons to get near 9:1. Aftermarket heads a good idea.

A small Voodoo is said to help with low CR.

Most here would consider this one much too small, for 400 cubes.

But it should have great low & mid range torque, in the rpm range a street driven car stays in most of the time.

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-r...8-262-270.html

If you are more interested in power above 5000 rpm, that is definitely not the cam you want.

I think lots of guys have been disappointed with the performance of a cam they chose, that was really to big for the type of driving they do.

I'd say that a cam one step smaller than the perfect one, would be much better than a one step too big cam would be.

One good thing about roller cams. If you don't like the cam you get, you can go a step larger or smaller, without changing the high cost lifters.

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-r...8-270-278.html

[hgiv]

I love the concept. There are so many 350P out there and we don't give them enough love. This build is a bit more "extreme" but even following the basic 69' 350HO model you will have a damn good street engine and a very reasonable cost. And God knows there are a small army of smog era 350s out there in TAs and Lemans that suffer from poorly done bolt ons and are now making too much noise and 250hp.

As for this combo my concern isn't the idea. I like it on paper and love it in principle. It's that you are wandering into slightly uncharted engine geometry, assuming of course that your 350 block has been checked out and is a good candidate for this project? Personally I would start with a 69 or early 70s block but either way you need to get it checked out by a good machine shop. Many other are probably good too. I see 350P blocks, or even nearly complete non running engines on CL all the time for $100. As someone mentioned you need to make decisions about piston choice, pin placement and offset? Since you are essentially making a new hole you have many options with regard to bore size. For example I've heard guys are boring out and running 318 mopar pistons in 350s. But a very small error will quickly ruin this party. As for compression you will have a lot of options. My thought would be to get it as high as you can and be in "pump gas" range. Opinions vary on what that means but with iron heads I would keep it around 9.5:1. Others run much higher like 10:1. I think you will have heat issues. There are a number of ways to boost compression, head chamber, piston placement, gasket size, cam choice? You got a lot of things to consider. I'd run some iron big valve 400 heads on this. Small chambers like 12, 13, 62.. Lots of options but I see these around all the time. Cam choice is another interesting one. I have no idea what a stoker likes. Engineers did things for reasons, usually good ones. I would study the Butler stroker kit long and hard to see exactly how and why they did what they did. Like why that cam? Even give them a call. Basically my thought was if it was easy to turn a 350 into a smokin stroked 400 everyone would do it!! And maybe more should!! Keep this going!!

[Jay S]

To me once you get away from using the numbers matching engine and a different head then it is time to start looking at one of the 350s bigger brothers. At least I would, but I have plenty of bigger engines laying around not in service.

If I have a car that is pretty original, like this 75 Firebird I try to keep it that way. I don’t mind doing mods on the inside, mostly because I want my cars to be faster than a modern minivan.

Each to his own. Yes, if your plans are for a 600 hp firebreathing monster, time to retire the original engine.

How many of our wives will know were there numbers matching engine is to the old muscle car? Mine won’t. My thoughts are I either leave it stock, or do enough mods so it is better than stock. To me a 4.25 stroke 350 done right will be better in most categories. The 350 strokers Paul K described sounded to me like they would be better than stock and super dependable.

There really is nothing that unique about this engine that requires much for special parts. The pistons are pretty much it. Butler likely has Ross customs, and it sounds like Paul K has Autotec customs. You could use pistons from another engine like the ls pistons, but by the time you make them fit your better off just doing a custom direct fit set.

I have never been around 5c heads from a 350. Are they basically the same as a 6x-4?

[Navy Horn 16]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

Just added connectors to my car it makes well over 500 hp I will let you guys know if I see any 60ft change 1.6-1.7 now and 11.20-30 with all stock suspension. I’m interested to see the difference.

Trans brake or foot?

[65sport]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

A small Voodoo is said to help with low CR.

Most here would consider this one much too small, for 400 cubes.

But it should have great low & mid range torque, in the rpm range a street driven car stays in most of the time.

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-r...8-262-270.html

If you are more interested in power above 5000 rpm, that is definitely not the cam you want.

I'd say that a cam one step smaller than the perfect one, would be much better than a one step too big cam would be.

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-r...8-270-278.html

I agree on the 262-270. He is retaining AC, not sure if he has power brakes but I think he will be good with this cam. Lots of recommendations from other people are too radical, IMHO for what this guy says he WANTS. (350 HP minimum, to 385 HP). He's thinking in terms of HP, and needs to realize torque is what he's going to get. High RPM HP on a stroked 350P is not practical for an AC car. If he gets the block decked to zero match his combination, and also mills his heads down both angles. Enlarge intake ports, pocket port, he's going to get what he wants. Knowing that his 350 was around 7.2:1 CR, the boost in power is going to be more than he may expect.

And it's going to look bone stock. I like it !

[slowbird]

I think the 4.250 in a 350 is a great way to go! Hands down i'd go that way before going 4.00 stroke

[Stan Weiss]

Base engine is a 350 with a 4.25 stroke, 9.5:1 CR and stock 6x heads.

The only thing changed was the cam. Lunati VooDoo 700, 701, 702, 703

If any of you have run any of these cams how does this simulation line up with what you have seen?

Stan

[74Grandville]

Originally Posted by Jay S

I have never been around 5c heads from a 350. Are they basically the same as a 6x-4?

YES - except they have the smog provision over the exhaust like all 5C. I have a set I was planning to use someday.

[grandam1979]

Originally Posted by Navy Horn 16

Trans brake or foot?

Foot brake.

[65sport]

Originally Posted by slowbird

I think the 4.250 in a 350 is a great way to go! Hands down i'd go that way before going 4.00 stroke

I would too, just because. I mean, you are right there do it now.

[TheGrudge]

The thing we all fell in love with these cars over was idle - 5000 brutal torque. How can more of the same be a bad thing? Real world vs bench/keyboard racing..

[MarkS57]

Originally Posted by Jay S

To me once you get away from using the numbers matching engine and a different head then it is time to start looking at one of the 350s bigger brothers.

As much as I like 350's (I've had a few), it still might be worth keeping any eye out for a 400 block on Craig's list, here in the wanted forum, etc. The 75 350 crankshaft, 5C heads and the other engine bits cross over and as mentioned, the piston choices are much better. Just my $.02.