[The Boss]

I'm sure they would - give them a call.

[The Boss]

BTW - I stumbled upon my 71/2 TA air cleaner yesterday that's missing the two snorkels if you are interested in getting into a repair project. Shaker tabs are in place. Let me know.

[njsteve]

Thanks Boss. I figure since the car is not stock there is no sense in wasting a good original part that someone else can use, on it.

Look what I picked up today! Thanks to a tip by BentwheelBob who found it on Facebook, I just got back from North Jersey with this. It's a 1975 hood that was already stripped and primered (top and bottom). It is in really nice shape and was only 45 minutes away. It was half the price of the new repro hood and no shipping costs! Yay!

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Thanks Boss. I figure since the car is not stock there is no sense in wasting a good original part that someone else can use, on it.

Look what I picked up today! Thanks to a tip by BentwheelBob who found it on Facebook, I just got back from North Jersey with this. It's a 1975 hood that was already stripped and primered (top and bottom). It is in really nice shape and was only 45 minutes away. It was half the price of the new repro hood and no shipping costs! Yay!

That fit right in the Diesel laying down?

[njsteve]

Sort of. My 95 K2500 'Burb has rear air and heat so it is narrower behind the wheelwells due to the extra HVAC components.

Think of the game Tetris, only sideways and in 3D. You have to remove the spare tire and back seat and leave them home. Then you need a second person to tilt the hood at a 45 degree angle with the lower edge of the hood down as you guide it along the driver's side floor, and keyhole the entire panel inward while the second person inside angles it upward toward the front seats.

Then when you get home you have to try to remember how the heck you got it inside the truck in the first place. (Steel hoods are much easier...with a Formula hood the degree of difficulty goes up exponentially due to the fragility of the material).

:-)

[njsteve]

I test fitted the new hood today with the help of my daughter. The fit is too tight on the driver's side. I'm going to need to pull out the diver's side fender a little so the rear spear of the hood doesn't rub as it passes by during closing. I think there are lot of bolts that need loosening to do that. I tried removing the rear cowl top fender bolt and the loosening the door jamb bolt but the fender didn't budge at all.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by njsteve

I test fitted the new hood today with the help of my daughter. The fit is too tight on the driver's side. I'm going to need to pull out the diver's side fender a little so the rear spear of the hood doesn't rub as it passes by during closing. I think there are lot of bolts that need loosening to do that. I tried removing the rear cowl top fender bolt and the loosening the door jamb bolt but the fender didn't budge at all.

You'll need to loosen the Firewall "front" bolt. should be enough slop in the hole to get you "out" where you need to be.

[njsteve]

Doh!

Forgot about that one (because it’s hidden behind the brake booster)

[OVERULD]

Bruce to the Rescue! Love this forum - so much knowledge here.

BJ

[njsteve]

I got the hood adjusted to where the gaps are semi even on both sides. I noticed it has a slight bow in the center similar to the way the Formula hood bowed. It looks like somewhere along the years, someone welded up a crack or two on both sides, in the middle area of the underhood reinforcement in a weak spot in the "crumple zone" of each side. They need to be rewelded properly since one has already re-cracked. Other than that it seems like a nice hood.

On a different front I found a cure for the always-squeeling alternator belt on the 80 amp alternator setup. I removed that dreaded idler pulley and found a belt that is the exact length to fit without having the pulley. A 15485 belt works perfectly.
Outside Circumference (in) 49.125
Outside Circumference (mm) 1247
Top Width (in) .375
Top Width (mm) 10

I removed the idler pulley off its bracket and then unbolted the alternator and fit the new 15485 belt over the alternator pulley. I then reinstalled the alternator. It has just the right amount of tension - not too tight or too loose. There is no longer any way to adjust it but it seems to work perfectly, riding along the water pump pulley for a far larger contact area than the one inch or so that it would touch with the idler pulley in place. That is the reason for the squeel with the factory setup - at higher RPMs the alternator belt bounced off the pulley instead of riding tightly in the groove.

I have performed repeated test procedures employing my patented shaker flapper door testing protocol (at 50 mph, slamming the pedal to the floor with a resulting high speed third to second gear downshift). No noises other than the angry 455 sound from the open shaker door and the gas gauge moving rapidly to the left.

YAY!

[Formulabruce]

Cool On the belt, be interesting to see how long the belt goes and works.
The hood cracks on side. IF you decide to weld them, take off hood and block corners up 1/2 inch and press down on bowed section before you weld. Block under it to keep it from going to low, then weight on top to keep it still. Lube the hood hinges.
I just welded one for a guy who insisted his was fine, just needed crack welded. He came back, with a bow he said he hadn't noticed before.
Obviously hood 3was off and he just wanted it done....

[njsteve]

The shaker hood is at a local body shop getting painted. The underside was blacked out yesterday. The metal was in very nice shape. Just needed scuffing and painting in semi glass black.

[njsteve]

The hood is painted. Wet sanding and buffing today. Body man is blending the fenders (and fixing some paint chips from the bad hinges) tomorrow.

[njsteve]

Hood and functional shaker scoop are now on the car. The paint match was close but it is noticeable in certain light when you look straight on. I think it is partially due to the way the metallic laid down. The car was painted Code 26 Lucerne Blue in 1993, 25 years ago. When you stand by the tires and look across the hood, it matches the fenders. When you stand in front of the car and look toward the windshield, it is a big difference. But what the heck, I am looking to repaint the entire car in the next year or two anyway so this was just a stop gap so I wasn't driving around with a primer hood anymore. It sure is fun to watch that functional shaker door slam open when you hit the gas.

What do you think?

[njsteve]

The engine shot

[Judge273]

If it makes you love car more it's a good thing.

Functional Shakers are cool, and I love the door opening on acceleration too.

You made it look good and correct for a functional shaker as well...

[form74]

Looks great

[RicksGTO]

looks great Steve!!

[The Boss]

The 75 Super Duty Formula look!

[njsteve]

I do have have some NOS "SD-455" decals but that would be too inaccurate for what's under the hood. :-)