[fyrffytr1]

This thing is kicking my butt! I unhooked all the wires from the switch and the solenoid except for the main battery cable to the large lug on the solenoid. There is still voltage to the small lug! Internal short in the solenoid?

[fyrffytr1]

With all the wires disconnected except for the main battery feed I can jump the small lug to the large one below it and the starter will engage and run. But, if I hook a remote starter switch (known to be good) to the same lugs the starter will not work.

[Bill Hanlon]

The "normal" way to hook up the remote starter switch would be from the battery cable (the other large lug) to the small lug. Same with "jumping" with a screwdriver.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon

The "normal" way to hook up the remote starter switch would be from the battery cable (the other large lug) to the small lug. Same with "jumping" with a screwdriver.

It would not work when I jumped the battery lug and small terminal. Only when I jumped the small lug to the large starter lug. I took the starter to work today and tested it and then removed the solenoid and tested it separately. Starter was good but the solenoid has an internal short. I ordered a new solenoid that will be here tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by fyrffytr1

The solenoid has an internal short in the windings.

I agree that the solenoid is shot.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon

I agree that the solenoid is shot.

I hope to find out tomorrow.

[fyrffytr1]

New solenoid almost the same old problem. At least now the starter will make a light click when I hit the starter button. I am leaning toward the problem being either a bad wire that is showing 6 volts but not allowing enough current to flow to engage the solenoid. I can jump from the battery lug to the small terminal and the starter works. I will run a new wire from the battery post on the starter to the ignition switch one day next week and see what happens.

[pfilean]

While it may be a good idea to replace the old wires, just changing the power wire from the solenoid large battery lug to the ignition switch will not help the starting problems you describe. Look at the wiring diagram Stuart linked to. All the power goes from the terminal on the solenoid through the terminals on the ammeter. If the problem is a bad (high resistance) wire in the circuit there maybe several wires that need to be replaced.,

On the other hand, because simply jumping from the battery terminal to the start terminal on the solenoid makes the starter function, then just go to the terminals on the starter BUTTON and jump them. Maybe the problem is bad contacts in the button and that is the part that needs to be replaced.

[Stuart]

That schematic can be hard to read - it would be beneficial to print it out on a larger format sheet of paper, if you have the capability, then it will be easier to trace the lines around.

[fyrffytr1]

Here is where I am right now. I do get voltage to the ignition switch and to one lead for the starter button when the key is on. When I jump that lead to the other one( no starter button right now. the old one fell apart) all I get is a single light click from the solenoid. When I hook a remote starter switch to the battery lug and the small terminal I get the same result. But, when I hook a set of 16 gauge jumper cables to the battery and small lug and touch the other ends together the starter will work. I have been told to make sure all the grounds are good as well as check the wiring. I plan on running a new wire from the battery lug to the switch first. If that doesn't solve the problem I will run a wire from the ignition switch to the starter button. (I bought a new one, just need to hook it up) If that fails I will run a new wire from the starter button back to the small lug. If that doesn't work I will bypass the ignition switch. I will also redo the ground wires from the motor to the frame and look for any under the dash. Does anyone know where the under dash grounds would or should be?

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by fyrffytr1

I do get voltage to the ignition switch and to one lead for the starter button when the key is on.

According to the schematic, you should have 6v to one lead of the starter push button whether the key is on or not. If you don't have 6v there with the key off then the wiring has been hacked and we cannot use the schematic for troubleshooting.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon

According to the schematic, you should have 6v to one lead of the starter push button whether the key is on or not. If you don't have 6v there with the key off then the wiring has been hacked and we cannot use the schematic for troubleshooting.

I will check that tomorrow. I wonder why that would be?

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by fyrffytr1

I wonder why that would be?

Reduces the amount of current through the ignition switch. That solenoid pulls a lot of current. My '52 GMC truck is the same way.

[pfilean]

When I hook a remote starter switch to the battery lug and the small terminal I get the same result. But, when I hook a set of 16 gauge jumper cables to the battery and small lug and touch the other ends together the starter will work.

If that is the case then I think the remote starter switch is also suspect. It really is only doing what touching the two #16 wires together does. But put in the new starter switch. And heed what Bill says. The hookup does not need to go to the ignition switch. Using the wires that originally went to the starter button should be enough. And as the starter will work when you touch the two #16 wires together it sounds like the grounds are OK.

[Bill Hanlon]

It does take a little getting used to when the starter switch will pull in the solenoid and cause the starter to engage and spin with the ignition switch off. Engines cranks, but of course will not start. I probably do that once every week or two on my GMC.

[fyrffytr1]

I don't know what I did, if anything but suddenly the starter button works! I checked the wire to the button with the ignition off and had voltage. As I was disconnecting the lead it touched the other wire to the button and the starter engaged. So I touched the two wires together and the starter worked. I then installed a new button and everything works like it should. Now, I need to replace the points, condenser, rotor button, distributor cap, wires and plugs ans hopefully the old boy will fire up.
Thanks to all of you for your help and don't go anywhere because I will be bugging you again.