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Old 09-18-2020, 11:42 PM
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Default Help removing flare nut on original master cylinder

So today I was gonna remove the original master cylinder from my 67 gto but one of the flare nuts on the brake line won’t break loose with my flare nut 9/16 wrench. I tried a harbor fright junker wrench and a craftsman and I could not break it loose . I soaked it a few hours with kroil and still nothing.you guys Have Any tips . I bet the line has never been removed and there’s no rust . The front line broke loose and the two nuts holding it to the fire wall .

Thanks guys
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  #2  
Old 09-19-2020, 12:32 AM
darbikrash darbikrash is offline
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Cut the brake line near the fitting and use a socket. Probably time for a new line anyway.

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Old 09-19-2020, 02:59 AM
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Large Vice-Grip pliers clamped down solid on the nut and tapped with a hammer always wins and is many times better than even the good flair nut wrenches.

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  #4  
Old 09-19-2020, 08:56 AM
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You probably want to save the original line, and do not want to booger up the original fitting with vice grip jaw marks. If the MC is to be replaced try heating the area where the fitting is screwed into then rapidly cooling it. Do this 3-4 times then give it a try. Remove all brake fluid first have an extinguisher very handy.

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Old 09-19-2020, 09:07 AM
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I had this same thing not too long ago. I drained all the fluid...warmed the body of the cylinder (not HOT) just warmed it up with a heat gun and kept moving the gun around. Once it was warmed up, it took a can of compressed air (like the stuff used for cleaning computers), held it upside down and directed it at the nut. Popped right out. The propellant is pretty darn cold. Probably some other ways to go about doing this but it worked for me. Actually had to do it in two locations, one at the MC and again at the union over the rear differential.

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Old 09-19-2020, 10:46 AM
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That nut looks untouched to me. If you can get a little more muscle on it, or use a longer flare nut wrench, that would be my next step. Then try heat. You didn’t say if you were trying to save the master and line, or if it’s being replaced

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Old 09-19-2020, 10:54 AM
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Thanks guys

Yes I’m trying to save the original line and was gonna Have Karps rebuild the original master cylinder . It still works great though . If I can’t get the line loose I’ll just flush and bleed the brakes . I can literally feel the line wrench Flex I’m pulling so hard .

The freezing the nut looks interesting


Last edited by gto19; 09-19-2020 at 11:00 AM.
  #8  
Old 09-19-2020, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lust4speed View Post
Large Vice-Grip pliers clamped down solid on the nut and tapped with a hammer always wins and is many times better than even the good flair nut wrenches.
What I've done before is to use both - put the flare nut wrench on the fitting, and then clamp the Vise-Grip onto the wrench end. It will keep the flare nut wrench end from slipping, and you avoid tearing up the nut with the Vise-Grip.

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Old 09-19-2020, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
What I've done before is to use both - put the flare nut wrench on the fitting, and then clamp the Vise-Grip onto the wrench end. It will keep the flare nut wrench end from slipping, and you avoid tearing up the nut with the Vise-Grip.
That's a great idea!

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Old 09-19-2020, 11:41 AM
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Crows foot socket and extension into a breaker bar may allow you more leverage. It doesn't look too damaged yet.

The vice grips and a hammer on the middle of them worked for me last time I had to do this on a much rustier nut. As long as it isn't rounded and you place the vice grips in a decent place you may not mar the nut up.

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Old 09-19-2020, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gto19 View Post
. I can literally feel the line wrench Flex I’m pulling so hard .
Peck on the wrench head with a small hammer while you're doing that. Be careful not to bust your knuckles when the nut comes loose.

Clay

  #12  
Old 09-19-2020, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
What I've done before is to use both - put the flare nut wrench on the fitting, and then clamp the Vise-Grip onto the wrench end. It will keep the flare nut wrench end from slipping, and you avoid tearing up the nut with the Vise-Grip.
This plus the "double wrench trick":

https://youtu.be/MhkydEzXL0U

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Old 09-19-2020, 01:40 PM
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Oh well, if I were going to use the serrated part of the Vice-Grips I could have suggested using a pipe wrench. I use the flat on the end of the jaws, but to each their own...

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  #14  
Old 09-19-2020, 03:41 PM
Dragncar Dragncar is offline
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Use the correct flare nut wrench with a small clamp keeping it from spreading. I have used a cheap flare nut wrench, ground some flats on each side so the clamp did not slip off and it worked. You can have someone else tap the master cylinder with a brass punch and hammer while turning the wrench/clamp combo.

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Old 09-19-2020, 05:04 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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I would buy or borrow a "real" flare nut wrench and it will come right out with a large pop. A Snap-On flare nut wrench will apply the load to the flats on the nut and not the sharp corners of the nut with it's flank drive design. They have a much larger cross section that surrounds the nut so it's very unlikely it will spread when you put the torque to it. Harbor freight, Crapsman, and other cheapies in this application should be called round off wrenches. I would estimate they are no better than 25% better than a regular open end wrench. If you need to save the line, that's the best way to go. One other option would be to go to the other end of the line and try to remove it there, such as the junction block. Then slide a quality box wrench, (preferably a 6-point), all the way up the line to the MC end and remove with the box wrench. Good luck.

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Old 09-19-2020, 05:20 PM
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This worked !!! And I caught the car on fire and it burned the house down !!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=N9lilLY4Vjg

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Old 09-19-2020, 05:56 PM
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That's hysterical. Dude sounds just like me fighting rusty stuff in the garage...

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Old 09-19-2020, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik View Post
I would buy or borrow a "real" flare nut wrench...
Beat me to it. I've had "popular" brands of flarenut wrenches, and I was very happy to put them out to pasture.

Folks piss 'n' moan about the cost of Snap-On (and other professional-grade tools) but this is a shining example of WHY folks pay extra--the Snap-On flare-nut wrenches work when other brands flex, damage the nut, create additional problems, and increase the frustration level of the tool pusher.

Although...

(Especially) If I were stuck with crappy tools, I'd own an oxy-acetylene torch and/or one of those modern "inductive heating" coils. In fact, I DO have an oxy-acetylene system. There's nothing like changing the temperature of a threaded fitting to encourage it to unscrew. The inductive heaters would be nice, and your homeowner's insurance might be happier if you didn't have welding bottles in the garage. OTOH, I've heard that the "consumer-grade" inductive heaters are pretty weak.

Cold can work, but don't bother with stupid products like Loctite Freeze & Release. You get a hundred times more penetrating oil than you need, and not near enough "cold". The stuff uses refrigerant (R134a?) as a propellant. You'd do better to just open a can of 134a, freeze the shiit out of the item,and then spray with your favorite brand of penetrant oil.



Be damn careful when using a vice-grip directly on a flare nut. Flare nuts by their nature are weak, hollow, and made from soft metal. You can EASILY crush them with a vice-grip.

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Old 09-19-2020, 11:57 PM
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Thanks guys for all the tips . I went to Home Depot today and bought a set of husky flare nut wrenches and a bottle of that compressed air to clean computers etc. it worked ! It froze the nut and it broke loose very easily ! Thanks punkin !

Out of the cheap harbor freight, craftsmen and husky (Home Depot ) the husky fit and felt the tightest on the nut .
I honestly couldn’t believe it . Thanks for all the great tips guys . Great forum .
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Last edited by gto19; 09-20-2020 at 12:29 AM.
  #20  
Old 09-20-2020, 08:30 AM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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I too wanted tightest fit when I did oem nuts on my TA. I had 3 other brands,craftsman,proto,bonney,then tried snap on they were the tightest feeling. I even took dial calipers and measured jaws.I soaked nuts with blaster all came lose. Compressed air sounds good.

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