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#1
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Tripower running out of gas when going quickly around a corner
I have a 66 2+2 421 tripower car, tripower worked great as it was restored by Mikes tripowers several years back. I just had the engine rebuilt, put 1968 #16 heads with forged dished sealed power pistons and a comp cams xe268h cam, long branch repro exhaust manifolds etc. now when i go around a corner the car is dying out temporarily untul it gets fuel or something. Is this due to the car using more fuel with the bigger cam and more HP? Or is it just coincidence and a float or jetting problem? Car never did this before the rebuild. I may have 40 miles on the rebuild.. any suggestions please?
Thanks Andy |
#2
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Quote:
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#3
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Left turn
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#4
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It may not be a running out of gas, it may be a flooding condition causing a momentary stumble. Could be caused by a sticking needle in the seat, an incorrect float level or a seat that has become lose and started to unscrew from the air horn. I had the seat loosen in the front carb on my 65 setup.
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#5
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I'll say it again: classic case of low float level. The discharge jet is on the left side at the bottom of the float bowl, and is the first thing to run dry on a left turn if the float level is off. I would first eyeball the wiring at the bulkhead connectors near the steering column in the engine compartment, then I would drive the car and see if it dies on RIGHT turns. If all ok, the next step is to pull the top of the center carb (5 minute job) and verify the float level and float drop.
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Jeff |
#6
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How much fuel is in the tank? Filters clean?
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be a simple...kinda man. |
#7
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Fuel half tank, new filter, ran fine on old motor a month ago
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#8
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Suspect a low float level in the center carb. Classic symptom.
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Jeff |
#9
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Ok, i tgought once the float was set it really couldnt get altered, not true your saying?
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#10
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Hard turn or gentle turn? Right, left, or both. First think float in center carb as someone else suggested. Other thought is wiring moving and shorting the ignition.
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If you built it, drive it. red 62 Tempest total stock restoration. white 62 Tempest modified, 61 389 Tri-Power, and a conventional drive train. |
#11
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Well, I rebuilt carb, reset float 3 times, put a phenolic plate on it and it still chokes out on left turns. I am embarrased to say but i fixed it,, the ground strap from drivers side head to the upper control arm was a little lose and had dirt and grease between th3 strap button and the bolt, causing intermittent shorts making me think it was fuel.. weird thing is i checked both ground straps for being secure and they were..but i didnt wiggle side to side the one under the rubber flap on the A arm.. once i wirebrushed the holearea, cleaned the braided strap and reattached nice and tight no more problem.. what a lesson..thanks all
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#12
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Quote:
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Jeff |
#13
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I'm trying to keep up here, so help me...How does a loose chassis-ground cause the engine to cut out?
I could understand it if there was part of the ignition system shorting to ground or something like that but I'm not understanding he loose ground cable causing the problem described. ???
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#14
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Your right, i thought it fixed it but a few days later it came back, as soon as the car warmes up it cuts out on left turns.. any ideas?
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#15
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#16
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"Top down" analysis would first answer "fuel or ignition?",
I would be tempted to add an A/F ratio meter. Maybe borrow one? I'm glad I bought one a few years ago (only about $200), as I keep finding uses for it. Right now it's on my daily-driver Falcon six- it allowed me to quickly jet the carb for the ideal 14.7 ratio at cruise (rebuilt carb's jetting was way off). I've come up with a quick way to put the oxygen sensor in different vehicles without welding in a bung- drill and tap the pipe to the sensor's 18x1.5mm thread, and machine an "adapter washer" from a piece of steel bar stock with a concave face to match the pipe's OD (few minutes on a lather or mill) and the other face flat for the sensor's gasket to seal against.
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Anybody else on this planet campaign a M/T hemi Pontiac for eleven seasons? ... or has built a record breaking DOHC hemi four cylinder Pontiac? ... or has driven a couple laps of Nuerburgring with Tri-Power Pontiac power?(back in 1967) |
#17
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Thanks all, i put petronix distributor and coil when we rebuilt it, i have tried everything i can think of fuel wise, i am going to swap the old distributor and coil back just to either eliminate that as a possibilty before i go back to searching fuel issues again. When it dies it starts right back up so you cant jump out and see if its fuel or spark.. what a pain in the ass.. sooner or later i will figure it out.. one guy keeps saying float to low, after trying distributor and if that isnt it then i will set the float a bit higher than 21/32nds and see if that helps any..who knows.
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#18
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The problem would be properly described as "intermittent open circuit".
Remember the circuit has to have a complete path to function properly. The ground side is half of that. |
#19
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It would seem, that the rest of the grounds weren't doing their job, if the one mentioned caused the problem.
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be a simple...kinda man. |
#20
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I don't doubt it Charles and I know what you're talking about...It's just that I've have driven these old cars with the battery completely taken out of the car once it's running. Considering that we have several parallel ground paths in the circuit, it would surprise me if one ground strap caused the car to go dead.
Not arguing with ANYONE, just trying to understand how that happens.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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