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Old 11-07-2019, 05:25 PM
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allenga allenga is offline
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Default Rust Deadener - Inside Trunk

When I had my 69 Charger restored, the shop doused these areas with rust deadener. I don't remember what they used.

inside of Trunk Floor to Quarter Panel Extension
Inner Wheel Well to Inner Quarter Panel seam
Inner quarter panel to rocker panel.

Any of you guys do this to your cars?

Thinking of letting POR 15 run down the inner body seams.

A

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Old 11-07-2019, 08:43 PM
tjs72lemans tjs72lemans is online now
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I used Rust Bullet before with good results. I have heard people mention Por 15 can peel off and do no good. Others have had good luck with it. I have also used Rustoleum rust inhibitor with good results.

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Old 11-07-2019, 08:47 PM
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I used Rust Bullet before with good results. I have heard people mention Por 15 can peel off and do no good. Others have had good luck with it. I have also used Rustoleum rust inhibitor with good results.
Thanks. Did you pour it into the seams and let it ooze in all the crevices after your body work was done?

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Old 11-07-2019, 08:51 PM
tjs72lemans tjs72lemans is online now
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I used a brush and let it run into cracks and crevices. Most of the time this stuff works best when it's worked into the affected area or area you want treat.

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Old 11-08-2019, 12:42 AM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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I use 3M cavity wax

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Old 11-08-2019, 08:52 AM
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I use 3M cavity wax
The 3M stuff looks great for new metal. I am trying to attack rust I can't see on 40 year old metal seams. I think I would need some kind of rust converter...

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Old 11-08-2019, 10:01 AM
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chiphead chiphead is offline
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What you need is a rust converter you can leave on and then top coat. A mild phosphoric acid like Picklex-20 or similar would work. It converts iron oxide to iron phosphate. Other converters like Naval Jelly contain phosphoric acid, but include other paint stripping chemicals like sulfuric acid that you do NOT want to leave in place.

I would remove loose rust and scale then treat with phosphoric acid. Sop up the excess and let dry. Then top coat with a primer product that is compatible with acid etch adhesion promoters. That usually means its compatible with phosphoric acid.

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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

'67 LeMans. 407/TH350/Ford 3.90.
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Then it broke. Rebuild in process.
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Old 11-08-2019, 10:04 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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For what areas i could not access (inside rockers and frame rails) I used eastwood rust converter. They have one product with a long hose and a multi directional spray nozzle. Honestly dont know if it works or not, but several years along I dont have rust. Figured something was better than nothing. I have not used por products ( i have used chassis savor, which I believe is a similar product) but my impression is that it should be applied directly to the rust itself for it to work the way its supposed to. I have heard if the surface is somewhat clean it will peel off.

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Old 11-09-2019, 12:12 AM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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I have had good luck with Rust Seal...by SEM .....just bang off all loose rust and shale with a pic hammer....apply 2 coats ..15 minutes apart....let dry for 24 hours....apply body filler or epoxy primer over it....or leave it as is.

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Old 11-09-2019, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiphead View Post
I would remove loose rust and scale then treat with phosphoric acid. Sop up the excess and let dry. Then top coat with a primer product that is compatible with acid etch adhesion promoters. That usually means its compatible with phosphoric acid.
Agree with the phosphoric acid...
Had an S10 and entire roof was heavily pitted with rust. Hit it with a grinder, soaked it down with phosphoric acid, after it dried, wiped it with a damp rag, let it dry and applied 2 coats of 2K primer. Drove it for 3 yrs in that state and it never popped.

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