#21  
Old 09-04-2019, 06:47 AM
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Im not saying that you are wrong by using a .037 gasket, but i would keep it more in the .041 -.042 range. Seems close after rod stretch and all.. just to be safe.

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Old 09-04-2019, 09:11 AM
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It is an NHRA stock eliminator engine. Cannot leave that much on the table. Have been running that deck clearance for 15 years.

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Old 09-04-2019, 09:17 AM
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I'd check the other bearings to see if they show detonation, but I think it was oil problem. What caused it would be the challenge.
Do you measure the bearing thicknesses and widths when blueprinting?



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  #24  
Old 09-04-2019, 05:22 PM
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Did you cut the threads of the plug to check for detonation?

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Old 09-05-2019, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie66 View Post
... cut the threads of the plug to check for detonation...
That''s new to me. Please elaborate.

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  #26  
Old 09-05-2019, 11:30 AM
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Expose the base of the porcelain more to look to signs of detonation I assume.

I fogged the motor down before I shut it off, maybe harder to see.

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Old 09-05-2019, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
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That''s new to me. Please elaborate.
Jack is a more precise way of looking for signs of detonation. Little silver flakes from the piston.

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Old 09-05-2019, 05:11 PM
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So you can see way down in the plug for the flakes
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:30 AM
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Thanks guys. I never claimed to be able to read a plug anyway... especially with methanol.

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  #30  
Old 09-08-2019, 05:56 PM
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You'll see deposits on the ceramic centre or strap l- o- n- g before you see the ali flakes if you know what to look for, these deposits are carbon that has been knocked off the piston top or chamber wall by detonation and then fused to the ceramic surface, they won't wash off with brake cleaner. You have to use a magnified plug reader tool or jewellers loupe to see these signs, and it's best to turn the plug towards the sun-much easier to see then.
If you're prepared to sacrifice a few plugs by cutting them open (very easy to do with a hacksaw) then you won't need to do a plug chop at the top of the track to assess your AFR , you can drive back to your pits as the very base of the porcelain is what will show the true colour band you're looking for -and the drive back to the pits doesn't contaminate this area.

  #31  
Old 09-08-2019, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottU View Post
It is an NHRA stock eliminator engine. Cannot leave that much on the table. Have been running that deck clearance for 15 years.
Great to see you competing in NHRA stock for 15 years. Sometimes these types of issues are hard to find.

I would keep looking at the clean piston and compare that one against the others. You can have it checked for hardness against the others, may point you in the right direction.

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  #32  
Old 09-09-2019, 06:29 AM
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If the impression of the lettering and numbers from the back of the Rod Bearing look smeared in the rod Bore then the Bearing was moving in the rod Bore you can rightly assume 2 possibly things that took it out.

1) detonation from oil or air to fuel ratio issues or miss fires.

2) water hydro locking that Bore.

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  #33  
Old 10-30-2019, 02:54 PM
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Finally got everything checked out. Turns out it was getting some water past the intake seat from a previous repair. The other thing we found is the cam bearings are burnt up as well. Not sure why and have never had that issue before. Only other issue we found is the fitment of the one piece BOP rear main seal in the MR-1 block. Looks like the seal is a bit wide for the groove in the cap and block. Has anyone come across this before?

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