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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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It’s hard to tell if Sarcasm is in the written word......but if I was a betting man...
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#22
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Yeah, all ive been able to find is that it is very difficult. Always wondered how they did it.
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1970 GTO 467, ported 6x-8, PRO FLO 4 M23Z with Long shifter, Quick perf Ford 9" SC&C Stage II 17x8 with 255/50/17 |
#23
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I know thousands of body shops in the 70's did SS metallics ... so while it might not be easy, it is possible. I've watched it being done .... other than a guy that is good with the gun I didn't see any super duper secret tricks.... well, other than being a talented guy that had painted hundreds of cars. I certainly don't think they had robots doing it in the 60's at the factory.
I think the key is that most people these days would not be happy with a 60's factory quality metallic paint job. If you want 90's quality with 60's technique and materials ... probably not going to happen very easily. |
#24
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'60s factory metallic
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#25
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IMPOSSIBLE ... it can't be done
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#26
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Only a Nitrocellulose Lacquer finish is truly a 100% concourse "correct" restoration on a GM vehicle of that era.
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#27
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That’s what I’ve been told....And only the Pebble Beach Show ,is a stickler for correct finishes being Lacquer.A friend of mine works on a Rich guys collection of over 300 vehicles ....and all high dollar cars....Dusenburgs to Hemi Cudas and everything in between.....But is not a Pontiac guy.
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#28
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Nitrocellulose lacquer would be correct for 1938. In 1968 GM was spraying acrylic lacquer.
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#29
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Yep, that's what I thought, when I was buying "OEM" paint in the early 70's it was acrylic lacquer.
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#30
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Quote:
Fisher Body called it "the exclusive extra in all General Motors cars". |
#31
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Nothing like a freshly polished Black Acrylic Lacquer paint job. Looks a mile deep and wet. Easy to spray, easy to repair, fast to dry. Paint in the garage and only get dust overspray. Single stage is harder to spray with out runs or orange peel, takes longer to dry, and is hard to repair and you get sticky overspray everywhere. BC/CC is easy to spray the base but the clear is messy and can kill you. Overspray is a night mare and the paint looks shiny fake with no depth.
Cost wise single stage is the cheapest then lacquer and then BC/CC. FWIW
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White/Blue 71 455 HO T/A Auto Blue/Blue 71 455 HO T/A 4 Sp White/Sandalwood 71 455 HO T/A 4 Sp White/Black 70 RAIII T/A M21/373 (stripper) Carousel Red/Black 69 GTO Judge 4 Sp 2002 Firehawk Red/Black 6Sp |
#32
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Black base/clear.
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#33
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Look what I found in my cabinet......ovah 40 years old....and don’t ask me why I still have it....maybe to remind myself where I came from...lol
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#34
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Mike, time to clean out that cabinet! While you're at it, go ahead and get rid of that gallon can of red DuPont compound and yellow tube of Nitro-Stan glazing putty.
The Sata is nice, but can we see the Binks #7 you were shooting that stuff with? |
#35
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Steve.....was a Devilbiss with a 43 cap....and the old 30 cap for the RM Super Max....Centauri...Ditzler.... and those special Dulux jobs..lol
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#36
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Dulux brings about bad memories for me. It was 1976, and the first "old car" that I restored was a yellow '56 T-Bird. The painter ruined it by spraying it in a cold shop on a snowy winter day with Dulux. I hope I never have to smell that stuff again.
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#37
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Did you help him pull the runs off....with 2 inch tape...and keep spraying...LMAO ! Not to mention your eyelashes sticking together.....
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#38
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No, it was a weekend and I wasn't there. Good thing I guess. And yes, there was yellow paint on the floor. I was SO pi..ed!
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#39
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Although I prefer SS solid colors ... is it just me, or do I remember just a tad too much humidity making things a mess?
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#40
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High humidity would cause a paint job to look hazy and milky ("blush"). It could happen with enamels, but lacquers were worse about it. Sand and re-shoot was about the only fix.
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