[Bob Timmermans]

The 1/4" of distance between this connection worries me and is making me consider a remote solenoid , so this isn't 'hot' all the time.

Am I worried about nothing or is this valid ?

[Scott65]

There's no real reason NOT to run the remote solenoid, but several good reasons to run one. I would and do.

[Sirrotica]

The remote solenoid will keep the starter/battery cable connection from being "hot" all the time. I would also suggest a heat barrier wrap to further insulate the electrical from the header, and to shield some of the radiant heat transfer from the header.

Pontiac street cars with headers tend to have heat soak problems with the starters, shielding them will usually promote better hot starts as well as lengthen the longevity of the starter....FWIW

[Bob Timmermans]

I'm going to install the remote solenoid and wait and see if problems occur .
If so I'll deal with it later.

I have to say there are little aftermarket parts that don't need any modifications to make 'm work on your car .

Kinda gets frustrating at times , you think you finish one job and you end up doing 3.
Ah well , that's the hobby I guess . . . just me getting older and losing my patience with manufacturers.

Cheers , Bob.

[stellar]

As long as the headers don't move, a 1/4 inch is as good as a 1/4 mile. You could put a rubber boot over it. I don't think you will have a heat soak problem with that type of starter.

[george kujanski]

If nothing moves, i would feel ok with just a rubber boot over the stud. You need something there.....think about dropping a wrench or a bolt...your battery may well explode, it's a direct short. certainly melt the cable and possibly start a fire.

George

[stellar]

A dealer should have boots for that type of starter. Honda Toyota Chrysler Subaru.

[Bob Timmermans]

I can't help but being naturaly curious.
So decided to have a look at my options with this thing.
Put it on the bench and unbolted the solenoidcap and see that the connection on the other side looks pretty much like the opposite.

Now , can I just put the battery cable on that side and shorten the opposite connector bolt to cover it up with a cap ?

[stellar]

I would leave well enough alone. and do a search of this Number 028062-0130. That may work for you. You don't want to put the battery cable on the other post. Not going to work. The solenoid pull in winding is connected to the shorter motor post. Search that number

[66beaumont]

Originally Posted by Bob Timmermans

I can't help but being naturaly curious.
So decided to have a look at my options with this thing.
Put it on the bench and unbolted the solenoidcap and see that the connection on the other side looks pretty much like the opposite.

Now , can I just put the battery cable on that side and shorten the opposite connector bolt to cover it up with a cap ?

If you put battery cable to short post that is direct feed to motor. Motor will run as soon as battery is connected

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Bob,
How would you do the two different solenoid wires?

S terminal on the starter needs to work before power goes to the motor and secondary pull-in. If not the starter will spin before gear engagement.

I could see this working if you energize starter S first and then apply power to remote solenoid S while starter S is hot.

Remote S only would cause a lot of gear grinding.

Make sense?
Clay

[Bob Timmermans]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Bob,
How would you do the two different solenoid wires?

S terminal on the starter needs to work before power goes to the motor and secondary pull-in. If not the starter will spin before gear engagement.

I could see this working if you energize starter S first and then apply power to remote solenoid S while starter S is hot.

Remote S only would cause a lot of gear grinding.

Make sense?
Clay

I've got the original instructionsheet from the Powermaster 9510 and it reads : " Can I use a remote solenoid ? Yes .
Connect the battery cable from the remote solenoid to the starter in the normal way.
Connect the starter's solenoid switch to the remotesolenoid switch terminal. "

So I guess I got this covered. Not shure on the battery cable to the other side tough.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Bob Timmermans

I've got the original instructionsheet from the Powermaster 9510 and it reads : " Can I use a remote solenoid ? Yes .
Connect the battery cable from the remote solenoid to the starter in the normal way.
Connect the starter's solenoid switch to the remotesolenoid switch terminal. "

So I guess I got this covered. Not shure on the battery cable to the other side tough.

Wired per directions the solenoid would kick the gear out before the starter got power and spun.

Moving the battery cable to the other side would make the starter spin before the gear kicked out. Good way to tear up starter drives and grind up ring gear teeth.

Could be done if you power up the starters solenoid wire before the remote solenoid was activated.

Don't know a good or easy way to do this
Clay

[stellar]

remote solenoid hook up. No power to starter battery post except when cranking.

[Geoff]

Remote relay [ not a sol, not needed ] is a good idea for a few reasons. Most important is it isolates the live terminal on the starter so that it is only 'live' when cranking. Also, the heavy sol [ sol on the starter ] current no longer travels around the world getting voltage drop through neutral switch, ign sw, bulkhead connectors etc. Life is also easier for the ign sw [ see below ] because it no longer is switching 40 amps, just a fraction of an amp.

There is NO need for a bulky sol. The original Ford type sols were reqd for some Ford starters that did not have a sol mounted on the starter.
All you need is a 60 amp relay, small & compact, only slightly larger than the popular 30 amp Bosch relay. I can buy them here for $10 & I have one on my GTO.

[Bob Timmermans]

Originally Posted by Geoff

Remote relay [ not a sol, not needed ] is a good idea for a few reasons. Most important is it isolates the live terminal on the starter so that it is only 'live' when cranking. Also, the heavy sol [ sol on the starter ] current no longer travels around the world getting voltage drop through neutral switch, ign sw, bulkhead connectors etc. Life is also easier for the ign sw [ see below ] because it no longer is switching 40 amps, just a fraction of an amp.

There is NO need for a bulky sol. The original Ford type sols were reqd for some Ford starters that did not have a sol mounted on the starter.
All you need is a 60 amp relay, small & compact, only slightly larger than the popular 30 amp Bosch relay. I can buy them here for $10 & I have one on my GTO.

I'ts allready on its way to my address , thanks.

[Lee]

Just hammer the header tube a bit, and you'll easily have 1/2"+ of clearance.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by Lee

Just hammer the header tube a bit, and you'll easily have 1/2"+ of clearance.

Hammer it until it breaks, then back off 1 hammer swing.