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#1
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DIY Restoration of AC hoses
Hey PY forum, I'm investigating getting the AC reinstalled in my 63 GP. I have all the original parts. Hoses need to be replaced due to cracking and some splitting.
Looking for advice from people who repaired their own hoses. Looks simple to me, where did you purchase the replacement hose material? Staying with R12 and have the original worm gear hose clamps. thanks- phil
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Phil '63 Grand Prix / 389 Tri-power |
#2
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Worm gear hose clamps are a failure waiting to happen.
Get hoses made with shells that are crimped/compressed to the hose/fitting. Find an AC shop that has a crimper and a supply of hose. |
#3
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If you have a Parker Store in your area, they should have the hose, and if you choose, they can put the crimped ends on the hoses as well. If you insist on maintaining the worm screw type clamps, make sure the bodies are in good shape and lubricate the worm screw mechanism before installing. Worm screw clamps for AC have the tang that helps trap the hose on the barbs. Worm screw clamps came from the factory on these cars and I have seen R12 stay in these systems for decades, but if the exact correct original look isn't super important, crimped ends are certainly better. If you ever change to 134A in the future, worm screw clamps don't do very well. The smaller molecules of 134A will make their way out of a worm screw clamp system in good condition in a couple years.
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#4
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My local parts house was able to make mine for me.
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#5
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I've done it, bought the hose, crimp ends, and a crimper. It was years ago, and I bought the stuff online. did a search. The crimper was the most expensive piece, but i had a few cars I was going to convert to R134A
George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#6
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AS LONG AS you stay with R-12, the OEM worm-drive clamps work just fine. Give the clamps a good inspection, looking for thread distortion from having been previously over-tightened. If they look good, use them.
The hose you need is "standard barrier", not reduced barrier which is thinner wall. For the compressor discharge use #10 (1/2") and for the suction side #12 (5/8"). Here's a vendor with the stuff you need: https://coldhose.com/hose-by-foot/st...rier-hose.html I did exactly this with my '66 GTO back in 2012 and haven't had to add any refrigerant yet, so this is definitely a viable solution. Last edited by hgerhardt; 07-15-2020 at 04:21 PM. |
#7
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what did you do about replacing the insulation foam on your hoses and the muffler? I cant seem to find this material from any AC hose & component vendors?
Is it really needed beside keeping originally? thanks - phil
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Phil '63 Grand Prix / 389 Tri-power |
#8
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Nitrile foam pipe insulation was used where the lines come close to the fender to prevent rubbing and also help the muffler to work better. You can get it from McMaster and Amazon, even Home Depot. Key is to get nitrile foam rubber and not polyethylene. It's called 'pipe insulation'.
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