[grivera]

Hard to tell from the third picture -Can you rotate the bottom canister on the fuel pump so it will clear the timing cover?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

What pump?
....Contact manufacturer, if you have the issue, others have too!

If the spacer did not come with the pump, likely they will recommend clearancin' the timing cover.
If A mock up is only option... if it puts the pump out of the limits of its stroke, dangerously close to the limits, or not enough preload on the pump spring to follow the eccentric well.
But... I'm sure they will have a recommendation (unless it's some off brand..I doubt you would do that with the quality of parts I see so far)
Looks like reclocking it may make interference much worse, it is hard to tell from that image angle.

[wbnapier]

I will post better photos tomorrow.

It is a RobbMc, Pontiac 550HP Fuel Pump – PN 1006

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/pr...ontiac550.html

The tech at Butler said to clearance the timing cover. After I said I have the insulator I can use a spacer, he said that should be OK.

The insulators seem popular on this forum for people looking to lower fuel temps. I haven't heard of any issues. I will check arm length, etc...

Also of note, the pump is drilled for 5/16" bolts. Stock is ⅜" I happen to be using the KRE timing cover, which is 5/16" as well. So, another trip to the hardware store. to find the correct hardware.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Instructions say valve body is infinitely clOckable, May make for less clearencing or finer line layout compromise.

[wbnapier]

More photos... It is clockable, and yes, it could be rotated to clear. In any case, I'm keeping the insulator on.

Photos attached.

Two questions:

1) There is a hook welded to the frame on the driver's side, see attached photo. What is the purpose of this hook?

2) On another note, I had one ground strap before from the firewall to the back of the engine/bell housing bolt. I replaced it, and in my Ames ground strap kit there are two more for '65 GTO.

Does anyone know where they go, and whether they are needed? My electrical is fine, there were no problems with one before.

[wbnapier]

Another question about the water pump plate to impeller clearance. The mod for that on an 11-bolt water pump is known to work, but I can't remember it being done on an 8-bolt water pump. Is it common to do that on the 8-bolt water pump as well?

[TedRamAirII]

The 8 bolt pump needs the plates clearanced as well.

[Cliff R]

Remove some material from the timing cover. It's superficially at that location anyhow, still plenty of surface areas left to seal off the gasket to the oil pan......

[wbnapier]

Thank you Cliff and RamAirII.

What do you think about that mystery hook under the frame driver's side?

[wbnapier]

I was reading about the 8-bolt, and there appears to be some different opinions on whether it needs divider plate clearance like the 11 bolt. I had sent an email to FlowKooler and they said,

"This is a common question for the 11 bolt but not one I hear with the 8 bolt."

"We have grown the vane to reduce the clearance. If you reduce the clearance further please be certain that the vanes do not strike the plate"

Interesting. I will do some more research.

[grivera]

By increasing the vane size, they have reduced the clearance like the 11 bolt - seems they are just saying to verify there is no interference. I don't see where they say the reduced clearance isn't needed like the 11 bolt.

[wbnapier]

grivera,

You are right, he didn't say that, he just mentioned they don't get any inquiries.

I'll check and see where my clearance is at, and take it from there.

[wbnapier]

I went out to fool around with the water pump divider plates and between my old and new sets, there are some differences.

My new pieces, from Kauffman don't match their photos on the web. There is a large "key" area cut out. Any ideas about what this is for?

They don't nest very well either compared to the old ones that may be from Butler... Clearly different stampings.

[wbnapier]

Old headers for sale:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...77#post6137377

[wbnapier]

Some good news.

The heads were flow tested and I got a nice surprise. Attached is the data.

Stump Puller II cam, lifters, valves, rockers, etc... ordered.

Still waiting on combustion chamber CC confirmation and whatnot from the machinist before buying the rotating assembly. Hopefully today.

[wbnapier]

Update.

The machinist CCed the combustion chambers at 70cc. I measured them in my garage at 72cc, so closed enough.

I ordered the "Stump Puller II" and lifters from SD Performance (drop shipped from Comp Cams), Ferrea valves, Harland Sharp Rockers (1.5), and ARP rocker studs from Summit (currently lost in transit).

Valve springs are up in the air. SD Performance specified some, but they require machining the spring pocket a bit, and the machinist wanted to look for some alternatives. I'll leave springs, retainers, locks, stem seals, and shims up to him.

The rotating assembly I ordered from Butler. Scat forged crank and rods, Clevite bearings, ARP 2000 rod fasteners, and Ross pistons. The pistons will be dished for 9.25:1 compression. Unfortunately, this will take 5-6 weeks as Ross is busy.

The machinist is waiting on the valves to finish up the valve job. I had previously sent him a single pair of new valves for the flow test and CC. He needs the other 7 pairs, which were back-ordered. He installed new bronze valve guides as well.

I'm happy they are moving fast... Basically, they're waiting on me now. I've ordered everything except pushrods. I just need to wait.

[wbnapier]

Update.

Seats and guides installed. I dropped off the full complement of valves today.

They'll need to sleeve another cylinder, as there was another blemish that won't clean up at the top of a bore

I have my Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers and I purchased ARP rocker studs, which oddly are labelled for Pontiac 64+ heads, but have a ½" coarse thread and don't fit Pontiac's 7/16" coarse. So, I just dropped them off at the postal shop to return to Summit.

Just a waiting game now...

[tom s]

You ordered the wrong studs.Those are for early heads that have pressed in studs.Tom

[wbnapier]

Update.

It's been a while. Ross took 8+ weeks to make the pistons, but they have been to shipped to and received by Butler. Butler will inspect, balance, and ship the rotating assembly no later than Thursday next week. So, my machinist should receive it a few days after that.

Also, I have a question on securing the oil pump pick up. My oil pump has the countersunk fasteners, so no tab to pick up is possible. I can braze or tig weld the pick up to the housing. Do you disassemble it prior to doing this? If yes, any advice on torque specs, thread lock, etc. when I reassemble the pump?

I personally don't think the heat generated should cause problems to the oil pump internals, but I am curious what you guys think.

[Scott65]

Take it apart. Its not just the heat, a stray arc mark in the wrong place could happen as well.