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#21
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I hope I did this right. I set my multi-meter on 2K OHMS, black lead went to negative on battery and red lead to tip of sending unit. I get 1.449. I also touched the black lead to the body of the sender and came same number so ground is good. Im going to start it up, let it get hot and take another measurment.
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#22
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Measuring ohms
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I am going to test a few temperature senders this afternoon for a customer of mine who bought a set of '66 GTO rally gauges from me. I will try and post a few photos tomorrow afternoon of my benchtop test-setup.
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac Last edited by Peter Serio; 02-23-2013 at 05:47 PM. Reason: Sercon Booklet |
#23
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No, put your meter on the X1 scale and look for a short on the two leads touching which should give you 0 ohms or there abouts. This proves your meter good so you can make measurements.
Then black lead on engine ground and and red lead on sender top (with no wire connected) should give you about 200+ ohms cold, about 95 ohms warmed up and 45 ohms really hot. That would indicate a sender that is ball park for being correct. Substituting a fixed resister of 95 and 45 ohms in place of the sender, like Peter & I told you, should give you a mid scale and full scale reading on the gauge, but you'll have to procure those first to do a test like that. Charles |
#24
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Lectric Limited is the one that Peter recommends and I can vouch that it does give you the correct readings, which you can verify with an IR gun.
Call them to get the right one chosen, start here and go to the sender page. http://www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm |
#25
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Im going to throw in one of those 9 dollar NAPA senders tomorrow and see if the guage moves off 100. Wish me luck !!!!
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#26
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I'm gonna put 50 Cents on the only thing you'll prove is that you wasted $9.
What's your Paypal address? At least that will bring in down to $8.50. Whay not a 50 cents 100 ohm resistor from Radio Shack? |
#27
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Quote:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062315
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#28
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Yeah, see if they have it in a 1 watt size. Maybe even 2 watt.
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#29
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http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062295 What exactly do I do with it when I get it ?
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#30
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Quote:
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#31
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You put the resistor between the green lead on the sender to ground. Sender disconnected. Your gauge should read half way mark.
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#32
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I did it. Went to Radioshack, put the 1W 100 ohm resistor in, turned the key and the needle went to the first mark between 100 and 220. Now what ?
Thank You guys for all the help with this issue.
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#33
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Picture?
Is that not half scale? How about getting a 50 ohm resistor to see if it goes to full scale? |
#34
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100 deg 350 OHMS 220 68 260 46. Im guessing the 100 ohm resistor puts me at bout 165 since its between 100 and 220 ???
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#35
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Your temperate gauge is most likely lost all of it's silicone buffering fluid. Because the gauges are powered by 12 volts. No buffering left inside of the coil causes the pointer to violently overreact whenever you go to start your car. Turning the key applies 12 volts "+" power to return the pointer back to 100 or cold, from it's last run "normal" temperature. I have seen this problem with both oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges many times. Ultimately no buffering fluid inside of the gauge coil results in one of 2 failure modes: 1 the pointer loosens on the shaft and begins to rotate, throwing the gauge off calibration. Finally, the pointer will simply fall off. Or 2: the shaft begins to loosen in the center of the magnet disc which gives you the same bad result. Your gauge is conjoined with the oil pressure gauge so you'll have to replace the pair.
At the same time I would recommend getting the correct, original AD Delco sender. Find part #AC 213-79., GM # 25037345. When you are dealing with sensitive electrical parts it is ALWAYS best to try and get an original factory sender. The aftermarket manufacturers produce and sell 10s of 1,000s of different parts for a span of perhaps 45 to 50 years+ of cars. They can't possibly be expected to have all of the original data from GM or Ford or AMC on every single part they make and sell. As example; that crappy NAPA TS6 sender, for less than $10; what can you expect?
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
#36
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Pete, does this look like what I need ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-AC-DELCO-...item5aea7146f5
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#37
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NOS temperature sender.
Quote:
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
#38
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FYI...
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How did you make out?
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"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." Thomas Jefferson 1969 GTO Convertible 1970 Torino GT 429/SCJ 1968 Corvette 427/435hp 1998 Corvette Pace Car 2015 Challenger FF R/T Classic |
#39
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I'm back !!!! Got a used cluster from a fellow member, installed it and same result...When I ground the lead to the sender it sweeps all the way to the right. I'm on my third sender, this one a GM piece from an earlier post. Thoughts ? It is driving me crazy !!!!!!
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...o_convertible/ |
#40
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Damn...
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You replaced the gauge and are on your 3rd sending unit and same result?!?
__________________
"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." Thomas Jefferson 1969 GTO Convertible 1970 Torino GT 429/SCJ 1968 Corvette 427/435hp 1998 Corvette Pace Car 2015 Challenger FF R/T Classic |
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