[Jonsie]

Getting the final pieces done to get the car on the road. Got all new wiring from M&H for the car. I don't have power at the fuse block for the tail lights or the dash lights. I have power for all the other accessories.......clock, defog, power antenna, etc. Where do start? Thanks in advance.........

[Peter Serio]

Did you buy all new wiring that is suppose to be an exact duplicate of the original GM wiring?

(Everything plugs in like factory and all of the colors match the drawings in the shop manual?)

Or did you buy the E-Z wiring kit in which you have to cut the lengths and put on all of the plug-in ends?

[Jonsie]

I sent M&H the old fuse block, as they don't repop those. Wiring came back from them like factory fresh. Had no reason to expect a problem. I don't see any loose ends, but obviously I am missing something here. I have another original block, and will compare the two.

[Peter Serio]

Here is the way I would go about this: First do you know how to use a "non-self powered" 12 volt test light? And do you have one of those? Do you have a shop manual for your car? That or a reproduction schematic of the car's wiring layout? There is a guy on ebay that sells those now, some of them are colorized so they are very easy to read. The old ones from the manual were just in B&W.

[Jonsie]

Peter- do you mean a continuity tester? If so, yes. I also have the laminated color schematic for full size '65's. Unsure what to touch the tester leads to- I am not to electrically inclined

[Peter Serio]

Not really a continuity tester. I meant a test light. I have one here. It's late. I'll photo mine and post a photo to this thread or better yet PM me with your EM address & I'll send you the photo direct.


The one I have is made by Snap-on. I have had it for close to 40 years. The part # is on it , it's old but it still works! I bought a newer one just so I would have a back up. What you need to do is probe for 12 volts "+" power at several places. I would start and the main power plug at your headlamp switch on the dash. I am thinking it's a red wire. Do your headlamps come on with you pull the switch knob all the way towards you? You need to study your wiring diagram and think of a few places to check for power. The clip lead on the test lamp's black goes to ground. You probe with the pointed end. There is a bright light inside of the handle that lets you know your on a power wire. DO NOT poke at the wire(s) or wire insulation. THAT'S A MISTAKE!!!!

Probe ONLY at the ends where you see a plug or a brass or silver connector. The brass ends inside of the plastic. You can get to those with the pointed part of the test lamp. You should also check for power at the fuse block although the headlamp switch is internally protected by a circuit breaker that's built into it. So the headlamp power supply is not "fused." After you have power on, the wires DO GO to the fuse box and both the tail lamp and dash lamp circuits are fused. With headlamp switch pulled all the way towards you those 2 fuses should both have power on each end (both ends). 12 volts + Study the diagram to see where power starts, how it gets turned on, and where (when on) does it travel to tell your bulbs to light up.

[Jonsie]

Peter- PM sent

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Peter Serio

With headlamp switch pulled all the way towards you those 2 fuses should both have power on each end (both ends). 12 volts + Study the diagram to see where power starts, how it gets turned on, and where (when on) does it travel to tell your bulbs to light up.

Headlight switch has to be turned ON for the tail light and dash light fuses to get power.
The power wire (once on) from the headlight switch, going to the two fuses, is brown with a white stripe.
The main power wire to the headlight switch is red and should be hot at all times.

Clay

[Jonsie]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Headlight switch has to be turned ON for the tail light and dash light fuses to get power.
The power wire (once on) from the headlight switch, going to the two fuses, is brown with a white stripe.
The main power wire to the headlight switch is red and should be hot at all times.

Clay

Can't get power at fuse block for tail lights and dash lights with headlight switch ON (with/without key ON). All other fuses have power with key ON. Red wire at switch does have power.
Headlight switch is new (and tried with an original switch).

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Jonsie

Can't get power at fuse block for tail lights and dash lights with headlight switch ON (with/without key ON). All other fuses have power with key ON. Red wire at switch does have power.
Headlight switch is new (and tried with an original switch).

Does the brown with white stripe wire have power (at the headlight switch) when you pull the headlights on?

Could just be a bad connection where it plugs in. That one wire powers the two fuses you're talking about, when headlights are on.

Clay

[Jonsie]

No power in the brown/white wire when headlight knob pulled out, have new and original switch, no luck with either one, harness is new M&H

[Jonsie]

With switch on workbench and knob pulled out, should there be a live circuit between the "red lug' on the back of the switch and the "brown/white" lug? There is continuity between the red lug and the blue lug (dimmer sw.)

["QUICK-SILVER"]

That's what the wiring diagram I've got shows. Brown/white gets power from red with headlight switch in both 'ON' positions, park and headlight. Then purple/front gets power in park position.

I can look at some other body styles and year models to see if there may be an error in this diagram.

Clay

[Jonsie]

I think diagram is fine, that's what mine shows, looks like I'll be buying another switch

[Bob with the 66]

Originally Posted by Jonsie

I think diagram is fine, that's what mine shows, looks like I'll be buying another switch

Just an idea,

At the harness connection, put a test jump wire from the red terminal to the brown/white terminal. Your lights should then work and would confirm that your switch really is the problem.

Might save you the cost of buying another switch.

[Jonsie]

Thanx, I'll try this tomorrow. Was at the SVGTO and a fella told me to also check the original 6-prong switch on the steering column, tilt wheel set-up. I have a spare tilt switch

[Jonsie]

Originally Posted by Bob with the 66

Just an idea,

At the harness connection, put a test jump wire from the red terminal to the brown/white terminal. Your lights should then work and would confirm that your switch really is the problem.

Might save you the cost of buying another switch.

Pulled switch, removed wiring, dash fuse lit when jumping red to both brown/white and green

["QUICK-SILVER"]

If the tail lights came on with the jumper.....sounds like you need to find the right (and good) headlight switch.

With the single power wire to the headlight switch, there's not much left to test or check. That's if the tail lights came on with the jumper.

Clay

[Jonsie]

Yep, tail lights are on, thanks Clay

[Bob with the 66]

Originally Posted by Jonsie

Yep, tail lights are on, thanks Clay

Sounds like a new switch is in your cars future.