[Hikin Mike]

1969 Firebird, non tilt column.

Does the key have to be "ON" in order for the horn to blow?

Isn't there supposed to be an audible BUZZ when the key is first put in?

Currently my horn only blows when the key is to the RUN position. I would have thought the horn should blow any time. I have crude schematic, but I can't figure out if it should or not, and I'm an electronic tech.

[johnta1]

The horn works all the time.

[4dblnkldude]

John is correct. If you have the door shut, key in, it will not buzz. The only time it buzzes is if the key is in the ignition and the door opens. It wont buzz if its running.

[many birds]

Originally Posted by 4dblnkldude

John is correct. If you have the door shut, key in, it will not buzz. The only time it buzzes is if the key is in the ignition and the door opens. It wont buzz if its running.

X2

The buzzer is kind of a reminder that you forgot the key in the ignition when exiting the car.

[Hikin Mike]

Other than this: http://thefirstgensite.com/html/69wirindex.html, does anybody have a real schematic? I'm more concerned about the horn issue than the buzzer.

[OG68]

I'm guessing your horn relay is mis-wired.
Here are a few schematics from the 69 factory manual. As you can see the horn switch is actually the ground path Black changing to Drk Green for the relay. Twelve volts Black with Red tracer from the alternator/starter/battery should be the positive side of the relay coil. There should be an Orange wire at the same connection. When the relay energizes the same power source passes through the normally open contacts and on to the horns (Black).
Somehow a keyed source is now providing power to the relay coil.

With the key buzzer Black with Pink Tracer circuit the key grounds the circuit when fully inserted.

There may be a connection with both of your problems.

[Hikin Mike]

Thanks for the schematics Ed. I"ll take a look more tomorrow, but it looks like it's connected correct.

[Hikin Mike]

Looks like I'm somehow "missing" that orange wire that should be attached with the black/red stripe wire.

[OG68]

The black with white or yellow tracer; is it hot with the key off? Schematic calls for a Black with red tracer. Or is the wire tracer color faded?
Is the brown wire going to the horns?

The orange wire may be connected elsewhere in the hot battery circuit or may be optional

[Hikin Mike]

Looks like Black w/Yellow Stripe and no power w/key off.

I found an Orange plug dangling under the dashboard but it isn't hot w/key off either.

It getting late and I'm going to resume this tomorrow. Thanks!

EDIT: Yes, brown is connected to the horn,

[OG68]

I wonder if some previous owner rewired it with a different color and source.
Is your car a late production '69?

The quick fix would be to follow the black/yellow wire out and connect it to a battery source as indicated in the schematic

[Hikin Mike]

The car was an early model (Sept 1968). I've owned since 1988. I do know I had to replace the dash harness because there was a fire before I bought it. I don't think I replaced the engine compartment harness though.

[Hikin Mike]

For my own (and anybody else) reference MaryAnn kindly took pictures of her relay. Mine are very different, so the search is on under the dash/hood.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=845189

[Firedup6975]

My horn blows all the time, key on or off. I have the buzzer also, but.....mine does not work. my understanding is some cars did not have one. Hope you can get it sorted out, wiring is the absolute worst!

Good luck!

[OG68]

There are several Orange wires in the harness. The ones under the dash are for fused accessories like clock or trunk release etc. The orange wire from the horn relay feeds the fuse box circuit breaker for the high amperage accessories like power seat, windows, top. If you don't have any of those then you shouldn't have the orange wire from the horn relay. MaryAnn does your bird have the pre-mentioned items?

[johnta1]

I'm guessing your horn relay is mis-wired.

I'd be inclined to agree with this?
Mike, There should be the main power source not shown in your horn relay pic?

The pics from MaryAnn shows the power connection to the relay.





and:







Your connector in the middle on the pic of your relay I'm not sure what that is? (or even the green and brown wires? green should be from horn switch)


I'll add a couple schematics marked up.

[johnta1]

This is from a late June 1968 68 Service News bulletin (for Tempest though) about a relay change. The pics may give you an idea of the different mountings for wires.

[Hikin Mike]

When I bought it 30+ years ago for $500 among other things that were missing (original motor/trans) there must have been an electrical short/fire as some wiring, the firewall insulation and duct work was burned/melted. I pretty sure I replaced the engine and dashboard wire harness from a car in the wrecker....back when they were plentiful and cheap.

I'm not seeing any orange plug in the engine compartment. I'm ready to just run a hot lead to the relay and be done with it. The buzzer isn't important, though I'm going to pull the steering wheel and see if the buzzer/key switch is good.

Going to look more in the next few days...

[Hikin Mike]

Originally Posted by johnta1

This is from a late June 1968 68 Service News bulletin (for Tempest though) about a relay change. The pics may give you an idea of the different mountings for wires.

Mine is an early model (September 1968).

[OG68]

Originally Posted by Hikin Mike

When I bought it 30+ years ago for $500 among other things that were missing (original motor/trans) there must have been an electrical short/fire as some wiring, the firewall insulation and duct work was burned/melted. I pretty sure I replaced the engine and dashboard wire harness from a car in the wrecker....back when they were plentiful and cheap.

I'm not seeing any orange plug in the engine compartment. I'm ready to just run a hot lead to the relay and be done with it. The buzzer isn't important, though I'm going to pull the steering wheel and see if the buzzer/key switch is good.

Going to look more in the next few days...

Pull the steering wheel after you put a hot lead to the relay and it still doesn't buzz. It will never work until the relay has a positive potential at all times. (Only buzzes when ignition is off and door open with key fully inserted)