[PontiacJim1959]

If the clutch rod pins are that worn out, then it is most likely that the hole on the clutch pedal that it goes into is also worn/elongated. I welded mine up and redrilled it.

On my '68 I used the factory push rod, but cut off the worn ends, threaded the rod's ends, and added heim joints.

I also added Shell Needle Roller Bearing to my clutch pedals to replace the factory steel spacer sleeves.

[Tom Vaught]

Some really nice fabrication work there, PontiacJim1959

Tom V.

[Singleton]

Originally Posted by PontiacJim1959

I also added Shell Needle Roller Bearing to my clutch pedals to replace the factory steel spacer sleeves.

Tell me more about this shell bearing modification. Have a part # for them?

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Some really nice fabrication work there, PontiacJim1959

Tom V.

I agree.

In addition if the bushings on the peddle shaft are maintained along with the bellcrank bushings there is much less wear in the pin hole areas due to absorption.

Holes get elongated and pins get worn because bushings aren't serviced either due to neglect or the fact they are overlooked, maybe even not known to a previous owner to exist.

With those bushings worn out, possibly even gone, it puts allot of extra pressure on the entire clutch linkage and can take significantly more pressure to activate the clutch.


Frank.

[chrisp]

Originally Posted by 4zpeed

I agree.

In addition if the bushings on the peddle shaft are maintained along with the bellcrank bushings there is much less wear in the pin hole areas due to absorption.

Holes get elongated and pins get worn because bushings aren't serviced either due to neglect or the fact they are overlooked, maybe even not known to a previous owner to exist.

With those bushings worn out, possibly even gone, it puts allot of extra pressure on the entire clutch linkage and can take significantly more pressure to activate the clutch.


Frank.

I have flanged bushings to fix the egg holes / bronze 5/16 i.d. ,if in need.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Singleton

Tell me more about this shell bearing modification. Have a part # for them?

Ditto, but thinking one could use roller pilot bearings maybe?

.

[Formulajones]

They've had them for mustangs for years. Not overly expensive either

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz2478rbmk

I've installed these on a Mustang, but these same kits I'm told are also used on GM as well with a little ingenuity.

[Singleton]

BTW, for anyone wanting to make their own clutch rods, or manual trans shifter rods etc. Easiest way is .500” mild steel tubing, .095 wall, which has a .310 ID. This ID is the right size for a 3/8 24 tap, so no drilling required.
Just need a R/H and L/H 3/8-24 tap and the appropriate left and right rod ends, (which are pretty cheap at $5 ea). The clutch fork from Speedway is $39.95.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...ork,37080.html

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by chrisp

I have flanged bushings to fix the egg holes / bronze 5/16 i.d. ,if in need.

My factory GM set up is good to go in the GTO.

Tanx for posting though as others may be in need.


Frank

[Formulas]

My 70 Bird bell crank was tougher than the linkage pins it didn't elongate I just got 2 new stock linkages the hole in the pedal arm was elongated I welded it shut and re'drilled not at all to difficult and it was like day one again

But being a retired aircraft technician I might go spherical rod ends someday for the halibut but it's not to urgent

.

[Tom Vaught]

Same deal with my original Z-Bar. The Z-Bar was fine, the Threaded rod end (square) that threads on the clutch rod was worn badly where the hair pinned pivot went thru the Z-Bar.

I did change that to the heim joints that attached there and at the corvette fork.
I left the stock stuff inside the car that attached to the other end of the Z-bar as it was fine.
I did all of these mods over 35 years ago.

Tom V.

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by Singleton

Tell me more about this shell bearing modification. Have a part # for them?

Here you go, this is my complete write-up on the upgrades which includes my parts list and photos. Have yet to install or see if this is going to work in actual use, but it seemed like an upgrade to me that will hopefully work in practice.

https://www.gtoforum.com/threads/clu...0/#post-893341