[PAUL K]

I think you guys are over thinking this. An out if the box Canton road race pan is good for six second passes.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by charlie66

What is the kick out for ? I really have no idea .

That pan looks new . Is that and old picture?

The way I understand it the oil needs somewhere to go besides right back down the sides of a normal pan from the scraper.
Its worth some HP vs a standard deep sump with scrapper on the pan rail.

The pan I have right now looks to be a 15-400. Its a street pan.

Issue I am having is to get a good pan that will add a few HP and keep my pickup covered at the start and finish. But the guy at Canton who makes all the custom Maxey pans is out due to Covid guidelines and will not be back until end of April at least. And I want a new pan made for my specific needs. I have seen a few but want one with proper baffles and trap doors, not just the side kickout. Guy answering the phone at Canton tell me no problem but hands are tied until he gets back. Even can not give me a real price. Between 550 and 850 $. Big difference in high and low.
Steffs say they can just make one up, 850$ for race pan with what I am after. But being thick aluminum omits some bolts in certain areas. They do look much cooler than the Canton pans. Just concerned about leaking down the road and having to pull the engine. Steffs say to run the "Right Stuff" silicone and that works. I might just do that since waiting for Canton might not work for me.
Anyone have issues with Steffs oil pans leaking ? That would help if I could find that out.
At this rate getting the welder out and a old pan and cutoff wheel is a option.
This pan will be the one I run on the 540, just want it to be nice.

[Scott Roberts]

Serious question...
Do you have an aftermarket block to build a 540? What are you currently trying to build? When I say currently, I mean in the next few months that will be making passes by summer?? Anything?
I'm highly confused on what it is you're doing
Whatever its, you understand there are 6 different ways to get there... pic one and learn from it... you have to start somewhere, there is no perfect answer.....
Even if you just cut a check, you have to make a decision on which plan to cut it on..

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Scott Roberts

Serious question...
Do you have an aftermarket block to build a 540? What are you currently trying to build? When I say currently, I mean in the next few months that will be making passes by summer?? Anything?
I'm highly confused on what it is you're doing
Whatever its, you understand there are 6 different ways to get there... pic one and learn from it... you have to start somewhere, there is no perfect answer.....
Even if you just cut a check, you have to make a decision on which plan to cut it on..

Yes I have a IA2. 55mm .904 lifter block. Have the crank, rods, offset lifters pistons, rings heads, intake and carb.
Engine I have now is a 461 with all the good block tricks, machine work is done, balanced. Have it all besides cam and pushrods. A lot of this is a dress rehearsal for the 540. V pump, pan. Have to start somewhere. New stuff to learn and put in place,
Too big a jump going straight to the 540 engine.
I am setting myself up to be able to race after I retire when money slows down
.
Racing is my hobby and it will be too expensive to do it on a fixed income. Need spares.

[Dave Polichena]

You should be running a diaper so "pretty" looking should not matter.

My Steffs pan does not leak with just standard side gaskets and Ultra Gray/ Right Stuff/ Honda Bond whichever you choose at the front & rear.

[Dragncar]

Decided to go with a Steffs race pan with kickout and all the rest. Stan is getting me all set up. Nice guy and Steffs knows a lot about making race pans for Pontiacs. Half of the ones he sells are for a BOP belt drive. They have all the variables on file to make what you want and know what will fit in a stock frame.
My pan is for a 4.5 crank and steel rods. Can not make it for say GRP rods with 4.5 crank in a stock frame without cutting something or raising the engine.
Getting it made for a 4.5 crank so in the future I can use it. Right now it will go on PMD block with 4.25 crank.
Will put up pics when I get it. My buddy just got a Steffs pan for his Mustang. VERY nice, sold me on them.

Question: The differences in the rear main area between a IA2 and a factory block. Is the IA2 a little lower back there. Think I remember guys adding a cork gasket to take up space. If I had it made for theIA2 then I could not use it on factory block ? Is that correct ?
Right now it is being made for a PMD block so I can deal with the extra space on the IA2 later vs having it made for IA2 and not being able to use it on my 400 block. Is that right or do I have it backwards ? Need to get it right as fabrication will start soon. I will run it over with Stan tomorrow but I wanted input from some of you that have run the IA2 and discuss it with Stan. Taking a few measurements to see how far i can get away with dropping the front of the pan. I should be able to drop it 1/4" without effecting anything.

[PAUL K]

What did Canton say about making the Bob Maxey pan for you after you sent them the pictures you copied from Slowbird?

[AG]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Decided to go with a Steffs race pan with kickout and all the rest. Stan is getting me all set up. Nice guy and Steffs knows a lot about making race pans for Pontiacs. Half of the ones he sells are for a BOP belt drive. They have all the variables on file to make what you want and know what will fit in a stock frame.
My pan is for a 4.5 crank and steel rods. Can not make it for say GRP rods with 4.5 crank in a stock frame without cutting something or raising the engine.
Getting it made for a 4.5 crank so in the future I can use it. Right now it will go on PMD block with 4.25 crank.
Will put up pics when I get it. My buddy just got a Steffs pan for his Mustang. VERY nice, sold me on them.

Question: The differences in the rear main area between a IA2 and a factory block. Is the IA2 a little lower back there. Think I remember guys adding a cork gasket to take up space. If I had it made for theIA2 then I could not use it on factory block ? Is that correct ?
Right now it is being made for a PMD block so I can deal with the extra space on the IA2 later vs having it made for IA2 and not being able to use it on my 400 block. Is that right or do I have it backwards ? Need to get it right as fabrication will start soon. I will run it over with Stan tomorrow but I wanted input from some of you that have run the IA2 and discuss it with Stan. Taking a few measurements to see how far i can get away with dropping the front of the pan. I should be able to drop it 1/4" without effecting anything.

You will need an extra piece of gasket above the rear seal you use that spans about 70% of the width of the oil pan seal on the rear man cap, I used 1/8" thick gasket material and cut it to the right size. Then used Ultra Grey when bolting the pan on, no leaks. I thought WTF, they didn't get it right with the initial design?

[PAUL K]

It is not uncommon with Stef's pans to have a big gap that needs to be built up with silicone over the front and rear seal area.... There Ford pans are notorious for that and also common on their Chevy pans.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

What did Canton say about making the Bob Maxey pan for you after you sent them the pictures you copied from Slowbird?

Covid has just about stopped everything there custom. The guy with the files is older and out until later date and they could not give me a date. Said they were waiting just like me.
Can not wait forever and my buddies Staffs pan looked gorgeous. Steffs is just much better to deal with over the phone too so they get my 800$. Making my own pickup.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by AG

You will need an extra piece of gasket above the rear seal you use that spans about 70% of the width of the oil pan seal on the rear man cap, I used 1/8" thick gasket material and cut it to the right size. Then used Ultra Grey when bolting the pan on, no leaks. I thought WTF, they didn't get it right with the initial design?

Thanks, they tell me a lot of guys do not use any gasket at all around the pan rail, just The Right Stuff. My friends 434 does use any gasket with steel and and it does not leak a drop.