[64-3Deuces]

Any one have the factory torque value for the nut on the upper control arm cross shaft? This should be the same for all mid 60s era A-bodies that use this style of upper arm…Thanks….

[wbnapier]

From my shop manual for '65, UCA, if tightening bolts while holding nuts, 90 lb. ft., + or - 10 lb. ft. If tightening nuts while holding bolts, 75 lb. ft. + or - 10 lb. ft.

[64-3Deuces]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

From my shop manual for '65, UCA, if tightening bolts while holding nuts, 90 lb. ft., + or - 10 lb. ft. If tightening nuts while holding bolts, 75 lb. ft. + or - 10 lb. ft.

Thanks for the reply but I’m confused about the nut/bolt combo you reference. No bolts involved, only the nut; one on each end of the cross shaft as circled in red in first pic. This arm is the later design used starting maybe mid-66 forward on GM A-bodies (GTO, Chevelle, etc.). The 64-mid 66 arms did use a bolt on the cross shaft---see pic 2.

[wbnapier]

Attached is a screenshot of the actual text from the manual. For some reason, on suspension, they give the torque both ways for nut vs. bolt. This is valid on the rear control arms, but not on the front UCA.

[389]

Just tighten them until the rubber part of the bushing is almost even with the washer.. Make sure the car is down on all fours with all it's parts installed before tightening..

[64-3Deuces]

Originally Posted by 389

Just tighten them until the rubber part of the bushing is almost even with the washer.. Make sure the car is down on all fours with all it's parts installed before tightening..

That was my plan as that is how I tighten up the shocks. But I just had my torque wrenches calibrated and I want to use them

[64-3Deuces]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

... For some reason, on suspension, they give the torque both ways for nut vs. bolt. This is valid on the rear control arms, but not on the front UCA.

As for the bolt/nut torque I noticed those types of specs in the five different GM service manuals that I have so I did some research on this some time back. Briefly, when applying torque at the bolt, more must be applied to overcome items such as longitudal twist, additional friction, etc. to get the same clamping force as applied at the nut. I was told it’s always preferable to torque the nut when possible.

[wbnapier]

I did my entire front and rear in my garage with the help of people on this forum, so you'll get it. I waited until the car was on the ground to torque everything.

Yes, I heard the same about the nut vs. bolt. On the rear, you have the option of either nut or bolt.

For the bushing depth, I can't explain well other than to say, they go in "all the way."

I can take a photo later if you need. Good luck!