[Chief of the 60's]

Another avenue to consider is reaming or honing out the control arm. Make the arm fit the custom part, not make the custom part fit the arm. On one of my cars, Global West requires a hardened sleeve to be welded in for a spherical bearing. Even though I TIG welded it, the sleeve shrunk enough that there was no way on earth that bearing was going in. Being that I only needed a couple of thou and the I.D. was small (less than the diameter of a control arm bushing) I looked at what I had in my toolbox and the only thing I could find was a brake cylinder hone, so I gave it a shot. It took a bit because it was fine stones on hardened steel but I got the job done and the bearing fit perfect.

Sometimes you need to think out of the box, not just jump to drastic measures.

[cnc]

Hmm might be a thought....
Although I don't think cutting the bushing Down is drastic if GBW says it is " normal " as previously mentioned ...
Guess there more than one way to skin a cat......lol
Wonder what else could be used that's a little more aggressive to machine the arm ....than a fine brake hone...not sure how aggressive hone stones are????

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by cnc

Hmm might be a thought....
Although I don't think cutting the bushing Down is drastic if GBW says it is " normal " as previously mentioned ...
Guess there more than one way to skin a cat......lol
Wonder what else could be used that's a little more aggressive to machine the arm ....than a fine brake hone...not sure how aggressive hone stones are????

Not very. That's why it took me awhile. But then, I was honing hardened steel. Mild steel would be a bit quicker.

[Hangn69]

if you cut the bushing down you will remove the anodised coating .I have had similar problems with the rear diff bearings on my catalina using global west bushings.One fit perfect and the other wouldn't go so rather than attacking the bushing I too reamed the housing .I think its down to the crappy qc of the 60's and 70's verses modern qc of global west and modern machining tolerances

[cnc]

I’m just not sure how much I can get out of the arm
The arm measure 1.30 “
Bushing first step 1.37”
Sec step 1.39”
Is it possible to get that difference out of the arm with a brake hone....
Or another suggestion.....
I’ve got connections to a Lathe pretty sure but that’s gonna be a few weeks away. ( holidays ) will chat with some buddies to see what I’ve got for options to work with....Gonna see Torquewar this weekend he’s got some good ideas usually so will chat ....

[cnc]

So I also have the lower bushing kit for my car it's the larger 9/16 bolt kit think it was #1020
Bushings fit like I would have expected....the kit also comes with a piece of angle iron to wedge into the arm so u don't crush it when installing the bushing ...this piece wasn't even close to fitting to aid with the install so we had a piece of plate stock we used .....other than that bushings were perf
My only concern is who ever did these original replacements I took out really did a number on the arm holes.You can see what looks like air chisel gouges in the hole area of the arms ...so cleaned them up best possible..
One hole the surface around the hole appears to be somewhat pushed in because when I install the bushing it doesn't want to fully seat and I have a small gap in a section .between the outer seating ring of the bushing and the arm...gonna see if I can address this today
Funny how these Bushnig are spot on and the uppers not even close

[FrankieT/A]

A quote from CNC,

"My only concern is who ever did these original replacements I took out really did a number on the arm holes.You can see what looks like air chisel gouges in the hole area of the arms"

I went through all this as well and decided to drop back and punt. I installed tubular control arms and the "tall" upper ball joints and never looked back...

[cnc]

It's more of a visual deterrent and more specific as its the area around the holes.....the bushings themselves went in no problems.....
Instead of using the proper tools for removal for a nice clean remove and install there are visual war wounds....lol
What arms did u purchase???

[Chief of the 60's]

So..... All is good?

[FrankieT/A]

I think they were BMR. They fit nice and I don't notice any difference in ride. Control arms don't usually do too much for handling but I put on the arms, the tall ball joints and 18" rims and tires at the same time and now the car handles like its on rails. But I would probably say the wheels and tires contributed the most. The tires are so grippy that I broke and axle at the track. These tires dead hooked. Nitto 555's.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

So..... All is good?

Uppers Torquewar and I will chat today....then gonna have a buddy come over next week to discuss some options perhaps
Lowers not a problem ...like I said fit like I expected....
I have to install new lower and upper ball joints lowers as well but I'll do those after the upper bushings are addressed

[cnc]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

I think they were BMR. They fit nice and I don't notice any difference in ride. Control arms don't usually do too much for handling but I put on the arms, the tall ball joints and 18" rims and tires at the same time and now the car handles like its on rails. But I would probably say the wheels and tires contributed the most. The tires are so grippy that I broke and axle at the track. These tires dead hooked. Nitto 555's.

Nice ...interesting about the tires.....have u run other tires at the track for comparison....these are tires for circuit/rally use ...???
My car is strictly street with some 1/4 mile endevours...

[FrankieT/A]

No not drag radials at all. I only took the car to the track because wanted to know what the car would turn. I'm not interested in dialing in or anything like that. I was just curious. If I got a decent run I would be happy with that.

Incidentally it was a 10 bolt with a 3.42. I took that out and I am in the process of putting together a 12 bolt with 3.73 and Strange axles.

[FrankieT/A]

We'll see what breaks next...LOL

[cnc]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

We'll see what breaks next...LOL

That's inevitable....lol

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

I think they were BMR. They fit nice and I don't notice any difference in ride. Control arms don't usually do too much for handling but I put on the arms, the tall ball joints and 18" rims and tires at the same time and now the car handles like its on rails. But I would probably say the wheels and tires contributed the most. The tires are so grippy that I broke and axle at the track. These tires dead hooked. Nitto 555's.

I'm assuming stock OEM axles? Worst thing to use with sticky tires. You'll break an axle every time. Those that claim they don't are riding on borrowed time or B.S.'ing.

[FrankieT/A]

I already have a 3.5" diameter driveshaft with 1350 U-Joints, so hopefully I can get a good run in without breaking any thing the next time after I "break in" the rear. Again if it just turns a decent time I'll be happy and won't have to go to track again.

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

I'm assuming stock OEM axles? Worst thing to use with sticky tires. You'll break an axle every time. Those that claim they don't are riding on borrowed time or B.S.'ing.

Yes all OEM except 1350 yoke and Richmond 3.42. I've beat on a lot of 10 bolts over 40 years and never had a problem. BUT, I never had this much power and never had this much traction.

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by cnc

Nice ...interesting about the tires.....have u run other tires at the track for comparison....these are tires for circuit/rally use ...???
My car is strictly street with some 1/4 mile endevours...

My car is strictly street as well. I used to be a "Pro Street" kinda of guy then realized there's a turn after every straight-a-way and now I'm "Pro Touring". Old age I guess...

[FrankieT/A]