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#1
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New front coil springs
Hi guys, hoping you all are doing well with everything going on nowadays, bought some spc upper control arms last year, would like to install them when it warms up some here.
Am replacing everything on the front end of my 66 gto, hoping I can get some front springs form eaton, not even sure there open now. My question is about what size of chain and length of chain your using to wrap around the frame and the front coil ………….doing this in case something goes wrong, that way the spring isn't gonna come flying out on me. I have this chain here, its about 35 inches long, not sure if its thick enough. Never did this before so im looking for some info, Thanks Rich |
#2
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Assuming you have not changed coil springs in the past, i would definitely start with a couple of youtube videos and of course the right equipment.
I have personally never used an actual spring compressor, but have done this many times with a homemade compressor consisting of a 30" length of 5/8" threaded rod, with a thick plate that goes underneath the lower control arm secured by a couple of nuts welded to the rod (so they do not back off when loosening the compressor). I then use a hardened flat washer on top of the frame where the shock normally goes through. Although I have never had the 5/8 rod break, it would still be a good idea to wrap a chain loose around the assembly in the event something comes flying apart. Again, if you have not done this prior, not a bad idea to find someone who has to help you the first time around. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#3
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I felt safe with chain that was about 3/16" thick links. I also used the 5/8" rod method.
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#4
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Hey thanks guys, looks like I have to get a little thicker chain...…….I did watch a few vids, seems like most don't use the compressor just let the spring down with the jack, I was thinking of going this way, that's why I wanted to know about how big the chain should be in case something did happen.
I looked at a compressor someone posted while doing a search, at $ 200 for a one time deal, im living on SS now, don't see this happening, will look into the 5/8 rod deal. Problem im having is my car sits lower in front, seems when everyone gets stock springs they sit too high, thought I would get a 1 inch lower spring from eaton spring, but was wondering if I need to get a specialty spring since I have alum heads, manifold, radiator...……...if someone has similar specs can you give me a number of what you ordered, the car is a 66 gto. Rich |
#5
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If you need a compressor the chain will just get in the way.
Changed half a dozen cars - you will not need a chain. |
#6
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you can rent compressors from auto zone or other parts stores for free. you pay the deposit & its credited when you bring it back.
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#7
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"Hey thanks guys, looks like I have to get a little thicker chain...…….I did watch a few vids, seems like most don't use the compressor just let the spring down with the jack, I was thinking of going this way, that's why I wanted to know about how big the chain should be in case something did happen."
Easy enough to get the springs out this way, but can be a real SOB getting them back in without removing lower arm completely and using a compressor. I have had car/spring combinations where it could be done with a floor jack and the lower arm would pivot far enough to get spring back in, but many require removal of lower arm. I have changed springs in my 68 several times recently trying to get the right stance. I use a floor jack to remove the springs, letting them "pop" out after the arm pivots down. I then remove the lower arm and use the compressor to reinstall. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#8
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Quote:
I have to take the lower control arm off to have the howe ball joints pressed in...……..hopefully the headers will not be an issue here. Any thoughts on getting a spring with a lower rate compared to stock, because of the alum heads, rad, manifold. Thanks again Rich |
#9
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Yes, let the spring people know what changes you made, otherwise you will likely end up with too much spring rate. In a couple cars, I ended up buying off the shelf Moog springs for a 6cyl application, which helped offset the weight reduction of no AC, aluminum head & intake, etc.
Springs are a pita, so feels like you won the lottery when getting it right the first time! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#10
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I have changed front springs several times in my life. recently 4 times. Do not buy performance lowering springs if you want to maintain ride quality! Also, it takes a little while for springs to settle. Most cars that sits high is because the rear springs have sagged! You do NOT have to take the lower control off to install new springs. Just make sure the car is supported safely. Just take the tire off and shock out. Take the lower ball joint cotter key out. loosen the nut a couple of threads, leaving most of the treads on the ball joint. Position the floor jack as close to the brake drum/disk as possible, with it just touching the lower control arm. You want no pressure on the spindle so it will drop down when you separate the spindle/ball joint. Turn the steering wheel out to where you can get a clear hit on the spindle with a BFH [big hammer] It will take a couple of hard direct hits to separate the 2. The spindle nut and the jack will NOT allow the spring to come out! Now, jack the jack up enough to remove the spindle nut. Slowly lower the jack. If the spring does not fall out, use a pry bar to pop it out. It is NOT under much pressure at this point. Lift upon the spindle assembly and slide a small piece of wood between the control arm and frame to get it outta the way. AutoZone rents both a spring compressor and a ball joint press, so unless you are changing the lower bushings you do not have to remove it. This will not work if there is no motor in the car! You need the weight of the motor to hold the frame down. The only way if there is no motor in the car is a spring compressor!
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connman Last edited by connman; 04-01-2020 at 11:19 AM. Reason: will not work if no motor in the car |
#11
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Hey, thanks for the tips once again...……...I do have to take off the lower control arms to have the howe ball joints installed, also while im in it this far might as well change the bushings. Still trying to get the spc lower control arm, but with having to wait more than 3 months to get the upper last year, not sure I want to go this route, and who knows how long I would have to wait now.
Unless something changes im thinking of using the stock lower arms, which doesn't seem like the ideal setup, seems like to get enough caster with the upper arms, I might run into tire rub issues . Rich |
#12
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I slipped a piece of rebar in to keep it from flying, which it didn't do.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#13
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I used the 5/8 rod method and got a grade 8 rod and nuts from McMaster.. no problems changing springs. I also got my springs from Eaton. When I got them they said if you do not like the height and the springs are not damaged call them with what you need and send the springs back for exchange. Great to work with.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 428goat For This Useful Post: | ||
#14
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How long does the the all thread need to be? Thanks
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl |
#15
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Post #2 said 30".
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#16
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I installed front tubular control arms this past weekend, make sure to reinstall the springs in the correct orientation, or your alignment will be difficult. Ask me how I know. 😣
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#17
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I prefer all thread with big washers and nuts.. Use the hyd jack to compress, then tighten or loosen..
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