[taff2]

Cheers Jack,that's a compliment coming from you. I may fab another one for the big single turbo combo we're building for my sons race car (got to finish the 25.4 chassis first!), but I may modify it a bit to include triangulated side skirts and keep the side skirts inside of the oil pan rails this time.

[Glenn Lever]

Originally Posted by Jack Gifford

Steve has a M/T hemi in the boat. It's unique- the only known example of a complete hemi Pontiac actually built by Mickey. It has one of three iron blocks that PMD cast specially, with extra casting thickness at the top of the valley, to avoid hemi pushrod notches breaking into the water jackets. It went to at least a couple of owners prior to Steve buying it (complete) about ten years ago from Dave Stoll (remember the Hugh Tucker/Dave Stoll Chev roadster in '61/62/63?).

Glenn said "... I want one...". Why? What would you do with a pair of them, let alone just one?

I would put them on a block and run them

Can you remove/install the driveshaft shield with the driveline in place?

Yes the shield is in two pieces and can be removed with the driveshaft in place.

You asked what an 8-counterweight crank is. Note that most V8 cranks have just six- a fully counterweighted crank also has the missing two (aside the #3 main journal). High speed engines love full counterweighting.

Steve25 sent me a PM and explained this to me. Requires a billet crank to do it. My new engine will have a billet crank.

How much boost are you seeing now in the 8.0 index class?

8 PSI at the top end, running 21 percent under driven with the new style Littlefield 8-71

Taff- I like your mains girdle.

I have place my answers above in red

[slowbird]

It is possible to add center counter weights to a forged crank if you really wanted to. But most go billet.

[Jack Gifford]

Somebody (?) years ago added the center counterweights to the '61 SD forged crank in my hemi V8. They were more knowledgeable than me- the orientation of the weights isn't symmetrical as I intuitively would have expected. I haven't done the research to understand the staggered positioning of them, but the crank works great to 9,000 RPM. In a phone call to Mac McKellar I tried to follow his logic, but he lost me when he got into the math for 4th-order harmonic considerations...

[Jack Gifford]

Glenn- back to your original question. Running 8 PSI boost now, I believe you could contest the 7.5 class without hurting your block. I ran a 401 c.i. iron blown-alky engine for 1 1/2 seasons at 12 PSI and 8,300 RPM without hurting the '67 2-bolt main block- didn't even hurt a main bearing. Obviously my 3.75" stroke was "friendlier" than your longer stroke, but your 4-bolt mains should help out.

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

There is a group on face book " Pure Pontiac power no prep outlaws" some guys making 700-800 plus N.A. horse power with stock blocks, they give some tips on how to make them live.

[JSPONT]

There a plenty of turbo guys running more boost more horsepower than 800 for years with out any issues. They are all heavier cars than yours too. I think with the right parts and attention to details you will be fine.

[455TA]

Originally Posted by 69FIREBIRD76MM

There is a group on face book " Pure Pontiac power no prep outlaws" some guys making 700-800 plus N.A. horse power with stock blocks, they give some tips on how to make them live.

Im the admin of that page. Glad to know the group is getting out there!

[Glenn Lever]

Another question along the same lines, this engine has no front support, with the crank be ok? (forged, nitrated, Eagle)

The new engine (the one to run 7.0 does have a front support).

Glenn

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Glenn Lever

Another question along the same lines, this engine has no front support, with the crank be ok? (forged, nitrated, Eagle)

The new engine (the one to run 7.0 does have a front support).

Glenn

I'm twisting my blower around 27% over with only 2 incidents in almost 20 years. I'm thinking you will be fine. What size blower do you have on your engine?


GTO George

[Glenn Lever]

8-71, stripped, new style Littlefield, it is still difficult to turn by hand.

Glenn

[92GTA]

Originally Posted by 455TA

Im the admin of that page. Glad to know the group is getting out there!

Cool, I just sent a join request

[ponjohn]

Originally Posted by 455TA

Im the admin of that page. Glad to know the group is getting out there!

Great Page

[ta man]

Originally Posted by 455TA

Im the admin of that page. Glad to know the group is getting out there!

Its a good group!Plus all Pontiac engines!

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by 69FIREBIRD76MM

There is a group on face book " Pure Pontiac power no prep outlaws" some guys making 700-800 plus N.A. horse power with stock blocks, they give some tips on how to make them live.

Do you have a link?

[ponyakr]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1470033089992751/

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1470033089992751/

I just went in that group and noticed they were asking the same question about highest Hp factory block , Bruce Fulpet is in that group already talking chit about Jim butler. What a douch.

[J.C.you]

since the oem blocks crack from the mains to the cam tunnel I did a main spacer engine (dynoed 750+) build several years ago. The thinking was adding material will strengthen the known weak link in the block. This was done for a circle track application. This engine is in a s 10 drag and occasional parade pickup now. Engine getting tired now so, fixing to pull the engine/ take apart and check to see if there are any cracks developing.

[Jack Gifford]

J.C.- How were the split spacers held in location in the main bores? What wall thickness? Material?

[taff2]

How would mains spacers strengthen the block in any way? Unless they were cast iron spacers welded in place and then line bored I can't see how they would add strength.