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#1
02-07-2000, 01:27 AM
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What is the best way to convert my '65 to front disc brakes. There are vendors who sell the complete setup (for a good price), but I was hoping to hear from some of you who have done this and your advice on the best way to go.
Thanks! |
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#2
02-07-2000, 01:27 AM
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What is the best way to convert my '65 to front disc brakes. There are vendors who sell the complete setup (for a good price), but I was hoping to hear from some of you who have done this and your advice on the best way to go.
Thanks! |
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#3
02-07-2000, 07:14 PM
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Richard, There are several ways to go. By far the easiest (although not necessarily the cheapest or the strongest) is to buy a complete setup from somebody like Master Power Brakes or Stainless Steel Brakes. This makes sure that everything fits and you don't have to "cobble" things together. However, to my way of thinking, their set-ups are a little "flimsy". I have just finished up putting a set of 12" HD Brakes off a 79-84 A Body (Imppalla, Caprice, Caddy, etc) on my '66. To do that you have put on the Hotchkis Performance Tubular A-arms (which also gives some handling improvement). Only downside I've found so far is that the 15 inch reproduction Rally I's won't fit (most other 15" wheels will fit, it has to do with the 5" back spacing on the Rally I's). I know there are some fairly cheap "junk yard" swaps where you take the spindles and all of a wrecked car and slap them in, but I'm not sure enough to tell you which cars make thegood donor (although I'm sure that there are plenty of guys on the board who can and will.
Ed |
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#4
02-08-2000, 12:16 AM
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Good donor cars are '68-72 A-bodies. You will have standard disk brakes rather than 12", but it is much cheaper. You can probably get all the parts for about $125-150 from a salvage yard. You have to watch out if you run headers. To set the caster to a positive number, the a-arm will typically hit the header tubes. I cured this by getting a custom tubular upper a-arm made so I could run +3 degrees. It is not done yet, but if it works I can give you the dimensions. The one benefit you do have with the complete over the counter kits is that you get all new or rebuilt parts. B/T/W, you will have to change your master cylinder as well.
------------------ Jim |
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#5
02-14-2000, 01:25 PM
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I am one person that used the "KIT" from Stainless Steel Brakes. I started looking into junkyard swaps and found that most of the stuff would have to be rebuilt or I would still have to buy rebuilt parts such as calipers and a master cylinder and a portioning valve. To add to this I wanted to upgrade to power brakes. Which ment finding a brake booster that would fit. All said a done I took the easy road and paid about $900.00. I'm happy with the way they fit and the quality of the product. And if I decide to go with disc in the rear I will probably go with a "KIT" again. It's your choice, both have good points and bad points.
------------------ A.S.D.Zimtok |
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#6
02-14-2000, 06:20 PM
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Thing to watch out for in the rear kits. Look at the fine print. At least Stainless Steel Brakes and Master Power Brakes kits only work on c-clip rear ends. The BOP rear ends wern't c-clip until up to the later years (not sure when), but if you don't have the c-clipper, then you are going to have to swap the rear end out or go to "junk yard" brakes.
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