['ol Pinion head]

As there are so many different options out there, thought it might be interesting to compare each by certain criteria. So far have a list of comparison features, any more comparison items, please post them & I will edit.

-Product design...boxed, tubing, wall thickness, material type.

-Bushing construction, rubber. poly urethane, grooved bushings with grease zerks...

-Factory swaybar fit or do you have to buy aftermarket rear bar or rig the factory bar?

-Special features & requirements (designed for use with hopstop bars, etc)

-Price: advertised retail, any deals?

[ January 03, 2002: Message edited by: 'ol Pinion head ]</p>

['ol Pinion head]

As there are so many different options out there, thought it might be interesting to compare each by certain criteria. So far have a list of comparison features, any more comparison items, please post them & I will edit.

-Product design...boxed, tubing, wall thickness, material type.

-Bushing construction, rubber. poly urethane, grooved bushings with grease zerks...

-Factory swaybar fit or do you have to buy aftermarket rear bar or rig the factory bar?

-Special features & requirements (designed for use with hopstop bars, etc)

-Price: advertised retail, any deals?

[ January 03, 2002: Message edited by: 'ol Pinion head ]</p>

[71Sport]

What about an explanation of why the Hotchkis adjustable uppers adjust only the pinion angle while the Dick Miller adjustable uppers adjust both the pinion angle AND the preload on the suspension?
Also .. the DM units are adjustable without having to take them off, Hotchkis has to be taken off one end ... :-(

[6567GTO]

I bought the Dick Miller Suspension kit for my 65.
It included Chrome Moly Lower and Upper Control Arms wit the uppers of course being adjustable. The lowers were tubular with polyurethane bushings and steel insets and have zerk fittings.
Also included were no-hop bars, support bars, rear springs, front and rear 12 way adjustable HAL shocks and the hardware needed to mount the no-hop bars.

It wasn't cheap but I don't think I'll ever regret the investment @ $1,328

I don't know what the Hotchkis adj. uppers look like but if they're similar in design to the DM uppers I don't see why you couldn't adjust preload as well.

I'm no expert but here's how you adjust the rear in a nutshell. 1st you adjust the pinion angle by removing the passenger side upper control arm and make the pinion angle adjustment with the drivers side arm. Also the no-hop bars have mounting holes which are at a higher location then the stock bushing location which changes the pinion angle right form the start. Once you've done your pinion angle adjustment you tighten up all the bolts on that side. Now install the passenger side upper arm and adjust the preload by shortening the arm length. You have to do thisn at the track to see what the optimum setting for your car is by trial and error.

[ January 04, 2002: Message edited by: 6567GTO ]</p>