I've got a '66 Lemans Convert and I just replaced my power steering box. Not that big of a deal to replace - but now the steering is "tight." When I replaced the box - it felt like the pitman arm was a little further back . . . not much - but I had to push it back a bit to get it back on the box - felt like the center link had to give a bit. Now, when I drive - it feels like the center link is binding on the frame beneath the motor - or something like that because there is some resistance in the steering. Everything else went fine - except for that - which, of course - is FRUSTRATING.

Anyone seen this before and any suggestions?

My kids still think the car's the coolest - so it's worth it . . .

-Dan

I've got a '66 Lemans Convert and I just replaced my power steering box. Not that big of a deal to replace - but now the steering is "tight." When I replaced the box - it felt like the pitman arm was a little further back . . . not much - but I had to push it back a bit to get it back on the box - felt like the center link had to give a bit. Now, when I drive - it feels like the center link is binding on the frame beneath the motor - or something like that because there is some resistance in the steering. Everything else went fine - except for that - which, of course - is FRUSTRATING.

Anyone seen this before and any suggestions?

My kids still think the car's the coolest - so it's worth it . . .

-Dan

[hobbygto65]

Try taking your old pitman arm off and putting on the new box.

[mike nixon]

does the steering return correctly after turning?

is it tight all the time or only when going past the point where the wheels are straight?


mike

It's tight all the time (doesn't return itself).

My old box was a 4 turns to lock, replaced it with a 2 1/2 to 3 TTL. Everything bolted up without problem. I used the original pitman arm. It just seems like I lost 1/16 of an inch or so. To get the pitman arm back on the box - I had to push back on the steering linkage - now I think the center link is pressing against the frame - the frame in the front of the car has a curved groove where the centerlink passes beneath the motor - I think that's where the problem may be.

Is there an adjustment I can make to the centerlink?

Thanks.

Don't want to sound crazy - but what would happen if I reversed the power steering pressure and reutrn lines - could that cause the tight steering? I'm ALMOST certain I replaced as removed - but . . . I'm mulling over everything now.

Thanks

[JPJ]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dirty Dan:
Don't want to sound crazy - but what would happen if I reversed the power steering pressure and reutrn lines - could that cause the tight steering? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I may be wrong, but am thinking the fittings are not the same size.

[cioccoj]

Did you match the boxes up before you replaced it? If the new box is shorter then the old one the centerlink will be pulled up higher and hit possibly the frame and might bind.

The boxes were (or appeared) identical. Side by side - no difference in shape, size, length, rods, etc. looked like a mirror image (except wasn't leaking like a sieve!).

Bolted on fine - rag joint - fine, hoses - fine.

Are there any adjustments to the box that I missed? Is the gear at the pitman arm adjustable in some way? What adjustments, if any, do you make to a new box????

Argh.

[Shadowjack]

You don't make any adjustments to a new box. You have to set them with an inch-pound torque wrench with the linkage disconnected and I'm pretty sure the manufacturer did that before it went out the door.
All Saginaw 800 boxes are the same external size. If it didn't look different, it isn't. Trucks had the 808, but those are big.
Have you tried loosening the mounting bolts to see if there's any slop there? About the only place to get any movement.
The self-centering in the steering linkage comes from the caster setting, mostly. Or if the linkage is a little wrong to allow the wheels to toe out, that would make it want to turn rather than return.

[scottk]

i am also pretty sure the line's fittings are different, so it would be difficult to reverse them.
if you think the centerlink is hitting the frame, you should get underneath there and look for rubbing spots.

a new or rebuilt box should be pre-adjusted before you get it, but some adjustment may be neccessary afterwards. if you have to adjust it yourself, you may want to check with the seller for warranty info before you touch it. if the sector shaft adjustment screw is too tight, it could cause stiff steering. there are very specific adjustment prcedures for it, which include removing the horn button and pitman arm, and using a small scale torque wrench to measure turning torque required.
i generally skip procedure and just loosen the adjustment until i feel/see play in the steering (i spin the column shaft from under the hood and observe movement at the pitman), then tighten just to where all play is removed, then reloosen 1/4-1/2 turn. an overtightened sector shaft adjustment can eventually lead to loss of steering at a most inopportune time. i would rather have a little play in the wheel than no steering.(plus i'm too lazy to follow procedure)
if you follow procedure and still have a problem, you may have a defective box.

the sector shaft (pitman shaft) adjustment screw is on top of the box, and is basically a slotted screw with a jam nut (like valve adjusters).